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Thread: Tappet failure

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    315
    Just did the head gaskets last summer, water pump last spring. Thanks for the suggestions!
    -Brad

    "That night we lay in our tent, looking at the stars and listening to the sound of the city. It does not sound like any other city at night. We hear heated discussions and a few fights. Also some gun shots." -Frederik Willems (While camping in the Democratic Republic of the Congo)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    315
    Nice. Rave did not say anything about them. Just the coolant and radiator. And the top end and oil pan.

    Hard day. Did finally get the viscous fan off. Chewed up the end if the pulley pretty good. Will be sanding down the teeth marks from my channel locks. Cracked the bolts loose on the crank pulley. Still need to figure out what I am going to do to secure the crank to remove the crank bolt.




    Will keep updating with pics. I expect to get quite further tomorrow.
    -Brad

    "That night we lay in our tent, looking at the stars and listening to the sound of the city. It does not sound like any other city at night. We hear heated discussions and a few fights. Also some gun shots." -Frederik Willems (While camping in the Democratic Republic of the Congo)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    315
    Not sure anyone is reading this but I will continue updating. Hope this helps someone someday!

    Midday progress:
    Labeled the plug wires to make reinstallation easier

    Cap rotor and wires removed:

    Drained the oil, while that was dripping I removed as much as possible from the intake:

    Removed oil pan:

    Lower end is about how I expected for 190k miles. No metal particulates seen.


    For this afternoon,
    Loosen crank bolt
    Drain coolant
    Remove radiator
    Continue disassembly of front end.
    If I get ambitious possibly remove intake.
    -Brad

    "That night we lay in our tent, looking at the stars and listening to the sound of the city. It does not sound like any other city at night. We hear heated discussions and a few fights. Also some gun shots." -Frederik Willems (While camping in the Democratic Republic of the Congo)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    315
    Lots of progress this afternoon. There is a surprise at the end!

    Used wood to lock up the crank and remove the crank pulley bolt, worked like a charm!


    Pulley off:


    Moved on to the distributor and radiator.


    Removed cover with oil pump:


    Made a bolt diagram to make sure I put the 3longer bolt back in the right spot I highly recommend this:

    Follow these next 3 images as they zoom in on the second cylinder on the left bank.



    Blue circle is where this lifter lived:

    Hello mr. Ticky Ticky!


    Tomorrow morning the cam comes out.
    -Brad

    "That night we lay in our tent, looking at the stars and listening to the sound of the city. It does not sound like any other city at night. We hear heated discussions and a few fights. Also some gun shots." -Frederik Willems (While camping in the Democratic Republic of the Congo)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    J10 M40 Oxfordshire UK
    Posts
    168
    While you are at it , check out for wear on the rocker shafts (just push rockers along shaft from operating position see if there is a step), can be quite severe,( in view of your cam condition ), results in poor oil pressure to crankshaft , and bearing wear . Nice clear pics by the way !

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    315
    Already checked rockers. Was hoping one of those was the problem so it would be a easy fix.

    Midday update:

    Secured the AC condenser to the hood with a bungee. You do not need to evacuate the system as you only need to move it up about 6 inches.


    Cam removed:



    Cam lobe worn down. This is the same lobe as the bad lifter.


    Cleaned up the gasket surface for the timing cover and lubed and installed new cam. Used the break in lube that came with the cam and lifters. The new cam is not machined to allow the retaining plate but per the tech blog it is not necessary. My cover has the stop built into it.


    Used the same break in lube on the contact surfaces of the lifters/tappets. installed accordingly.


    Attached gears one at a time and set timing marks. Removed them and set them in the chain so the matching marks aligned. Slid gears and chain on.


    For this afternoon continue assembly.
    -Brad

    "That night we lay in our tent, looking at the stars and listening to the sound of the city. It does not sound like any other city at night. We hear heated discussions and a few fights. Also some gun shots." -Frederik Willems (While camping in the Democratic Republic of the Congo)

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    315
    Not much progress this afternoon. Went looking for VR1 10w something and failed. Did manage to clean the timing cover and install the spacer, distributor drive gear and torque down the bolt. No pics of this.
    -Brad

    "That night we lay in our tent, looking at the stars and listening to the sound of the city. It does not sound like any other city at night. We hear heated discussions and a few fights. Also some gun shots." -Frederik Willems (While camping in the Democratic Republic of the Congo)

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Champaign, Illinois
    Posts
    1,641
    How many miles on your motor?
    "The most unreliable car in the world is the most reliable car in the world." -Jeremy Clarkson

    "Adventure starts when everything goes wrong." -Yvon Chouinard

    1999 Discovery Series II "Oryx"
    1989 Range Rover Classic SWB "Addax"
    1992 Range Rover Classic SWB "Green Buffalo"
    1995 Discovery V8i "Crikey II" (Sold)
    1996 Discovery SD "Crikey I" (Sold)
    2001 Jaguar XJ8L Vanden Plas "Prince Harry"

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    315
    190,000
    -Brad

    "That night we lay in our tent, looking at the stars and listening to the sound of the city. It does not sound like any other city at night. We hear heated discussions and a few fights. Also some gun shots." -Frederik Willems (While camping in the Democratic Republic of the Congo)

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    315
    Update on oil. This is directly from mark at D&D for his cam kit.
    In the kit I have a bottle of crane cam super lube break in concentrate. 99003-1
    He recommended castrol gtx 10w-30 with the additive.
    If at all possible attach a oil pressure gauge to the system during break in to ensure you are not dry firing the engine.
    Start the engine and rev to 2000-2500 RPM for 20-25 min. After the initial break in continue to let the engine run (called run in) adjusting from idle for a while to 2000 rpm over the next hour, shut off the engine. While engine is still warm drain the oil and remove the filter, this drains out the assembly lube.
    Refill oil and replace the oil filter add another super lube (mark recommends adding this on every oil change) and continue on with normal maintenance.

    I have to say Mark at D&D has been a Huge help. This is a daunting task, basically open heart surgery for your engine. If you take your time and follow the steps anyone can do this.
    -Brad

    "That night we lay in our tent, looking at the stars and listening to the sound of the city. It does not sound like any other city at night. We hear heated discussions and a few fights. Also some gun shots." -Frederik Willems (While camping in the Democratic Republic of the Congo)

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