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Thread: Multi Battery Isolator

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    front range, colorado
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    28
    I bought a Hellroaring isolater last year for the aux battery in my popup camper. It is a little spendy but seems to solve the diode issue while still being completely solid state. I use to use a solenoid but one time when the starting battery was low and with the solenoid open it use power from the aux battery and burned up the wires as the aux battery was wired with only 10ga wire.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Wilmington,Calif, USA
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    422
    Try to keep the battery cables as short as possible, see my set-up. tx brian
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    Last edited by brian90744; 09-09-2012 at 02:46 PM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Copenhagen and B.C.
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    2,016
    I read about a cheap solution on another thread in the domestic and full size area where the person just used a battery disconnect switch on the positive terminal of the main battery. If you disconnect the aux battery from the main starter battery when your vehicle is not running then you are effectively doing the same thing as the isolator are you not? If you keep an eye on the voltage of your aux battery and turn things off before the voltage gets too low, then you should be ok, right? As far as I see it as long as you dont reconnect the isolator switch before you have fired your vehicle up on your main battery, then everything should be ok. Please feel free to give your 2 cents worth everyone.....

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Clark, Wyoming
    Posts
    396
    ^^^^^ Yes you are exactly right. However, people try to design a system that is automatic for convenience reasons. Also, as humans we often forget; hate to get stuck at the camp site from a dead battery because it was forgotten. The simplest way is to wire a heavy duty solenoid between the positive of both batteries that closes from a keyed source while having all of your aux circuits feed from the aux battery. This way when you are parked you only run off of the aux battery and with the key on you have both batteries being used and charging.

    As automation is my career and I'm a master electrician you would think I'd have a fancy set-up but alas I do similar to the way you described. (My aux battery is on my trailer and I just unplug the trailer from the jeep). I do thing the simplest way that it will work and when it does not I just fix it.
    JK 2dr rubi Garage
    2000 F350 CC LWB 7.3 4x4
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  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Hamilton, Ontario Canada
    Posts
    880
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff@QuadShop View Post
    Not in my case, my aux battery is always exactly the same after charging as my main battery as shown on my National Luna battery monitor and checking it with my multimeter.
    This makes sense. I tested my Cole Hersee 48120 battery isolator and found the voltage drop to be .451 vdc to batt 1 and .464 vdc to batt 2. The isolator consists of 2 140 amp diodes encapsulated on a large heat-sink. The heat is generated by the voltage drop through the diodes. If your charging system has a high enough charge voltage to make up the 1/2 volt loss there will be no problems but if your charging system is marginal, the batteries will be consistently undercharged.
    John H.
    1970 Mercedes Unimog
    2004 F150 Heritage Supercab
    1974 Holiday 17' Travel Trailer
    It's not about the truck and it is not about the distance traveled. Get out there with whatever you have, meet people and see things. Push the envelope of your comfort zone and live.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Middle of Nowhere, Outer Skin of Space Ship Earth, 1 A.U. from Sol, Outskirts of Milky Way.
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    Just a comment regarding the manual switch...

    If the "surge problem" with solenoids - described in that one brochure as destroying batteries - was real (it isn't); then using a manual switch would have the same problem.
    ...
    ...
    Current: 76 E-250, bubble-top, self-contained|couple of old Yamaha enduros
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  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Oregon, USA
    Posts
    1,739
    Quote Originally Posted by roving View Post
    Anyone every used one of these. ...
    I am



    ...and added simple battery disconnect switch as the method of combining batteries. I manually combine them under the hood. The way it is set up this battery charges when the truck is running. It remains full and fresh. When I need extra reserve for winching operations or in the event I drain down the starting battery, I combine them and "jump start" myself.



    My alternator does use remote sensing. Many of the DG, AD and CS alternators have this capability too. At first I was a little worried about the effect having the batteries separated most of the time. Would they stay fully charged? Could one get over charged?
    Nope. Works just fine

    Works great and worry free.
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    - BLT Offroad KE7CSK

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Western Hemisphere
    Posts
    226
    Like you, I researched and read a lot about isolators and dual battery kits. I settled on a 275-amp dual battery kit from Ironman4x4.com http://www.ironman4x4.com/html/motorised275amp.html. I am VERY pleased with the kit. I installed the switch in a full-size Chevrolet Silverado pickup and plan to put the same setup in an FJ40 Land Cruiser.

    The hookup is relatively simple, but I have to say that it was a bit of a pain wiring up the remote override switch. The kit is a good value if you don't have all of your wiring and connectors. It works flawlessly, and I purposely let the main battery die down just to check out the functioning of the unit.

    The IronMan4x4 kit is made by BEP Marine, and the switch is a BEP Marine 701-MD http://www.bepmarine.com/home-mainme...switch-275amps. I found it online from $145 to $189.

    I examined the National Luna and Hellroaring units as well. Both of these companies seem to make good products, but what really sold me was that the IronMan4x4 / BEP Marine dual battery switch is indeed a "marine" switch made for harsh and wet conditions which is perfect for under the hood of an off-road vehicle.

    If anyone can source the "dual LED battery monitor," which is also made by BEP Marine, please let me know.
    The nine most terrifying words in the English language are, Im from the government and Im here to help. Ronald Reagan

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  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Copenhagen and B.C.
    Posts
    2,016
    Thank you for posting Henry. It is your simple switch system that I will most likely be installing when I get to Canada this summer. What a great idea at a bargain price!

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    hell
    Posts
    74
    Well the reason I'm using it, I have it. I have a range rover which likes to suck power if you leave something on. It seems to keep up with my winch fine as long as the engine is on. The engine can actually tell when the battery is taking a larger load and will idle up automatically. it goes up to 1500 rpm if i've been doing a long uphill pull. Kind of cool.

    My major concern of course is if my Bosch alternator will be alright. I've since found on another rover forum that there are a few people running the high tech fancy Multi battery isolators.

    I don't really care about having all the lights and fancy indicators. I just want something that is hooked up and i can forget about it. KISS is my principle with my vehicle. I don't think that just because it looks cool its going to do that much more.

    My second battery will be a back-up and I'd like to run a Fridge and larger inverter off of it.

    I have a 1000CCA 150Ah battery up front right now. I'll probably use a deep cell battery for the rest of the stuff. I have HID bulbs in my headlights and 6.5 spot lights, so they don't pull as much power as the old Halogens did. I also deleted the Nav system, Air Suspension and some other out dated crap that sucked a lot of juice at start up.

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