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Thread: Charging source for bed mounted battery

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Santee, CA
    Posts
    1,341
    Ok, so the reason I suggested a 70amp breaker is because the rear battery isn't likely to draw more than 60 amps from the alternator should it be seriously drained.

    And in a proper setup, you should rarely need to start from the rear battery, since the whole purpose to this exercise is to protect the starting battery from discharge

    So what is the recommended breaker/fuse size if by chance you need to start from the rear battery? Something is telling me 150 is plenty, and hoping so, because I have four 150amp blue sea breakers and I'm getting ready to put a second Odyssey PC1700 in the back of my 4runner.
    Mitch
    → 1999 4Runner, 4WD, 4 tires and a spare, a lift, and some armor.

    My Build Thread

    Roaming the Land of the Free and the Home of the Brave - American Adventurist!

  2. #12
    What amperage the alternator is charging the battery is not as much of a concern as what you would be drawing from the battery if necessary. Things like winches and inverters draw huge amperage, this is mitigated if the alternator is working. I would think you would be ok with your 150amp breakers, depending on what is running off of that battery.
    Fastlane Parts and Supply

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  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Santee, CA
    Posts
    1,341
    I don't have a winch, and if I did, I probably would keep both batteries in the front of the truck so as to allow the cables to be short and larger gauge.

    For me it will be that ARB fridge when I win it, some LED lighting, my amplifiers for my stereo, that's pretty much it. Running a thermoelectric cooler now, but I want to get rid of that.
    Mitch
    → 1999 4Runner, 4WD, 4 tires and a spare, a lift, and some armor.

    My Build Thread

    Roaming the Land of the Free and the Home of the Brave - American Adventurist!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Culver City
    Posts
    206

    Default Parts ordered

    So I ordered my parts - Blue Sea (2) ML-Series Automatic Charging Relays (Magnetic Latch)- #7622 and (1) SafetyHub 250 Fuse Block with Remote Battery Switch -#7727. The 7727 has three switched 30A−200A MIDI®/AMI® fuses which will be used for winch, off road lights, trailer battery charge. It also has four 24-hour 1AFour 24-hour 1A−20A ATO®/ATC® fuses−20A ATO®/ATC® fuses that will service the reefer, interior lighting, CB, and 2m. I'll post up photos and schematic when I get to the install next weekend. I need to wrap up replacing (16) 8D, (2) 4D batteries along with a new 4000w inverter. Naturally the cables between the battery bank and new inverter (different model from the old) are 1" short .
    Cheers.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    4,070
    Not sure that you need such a high current line...I charge my golf cart 12v AGM deep cycle that i keep in back for my arb fridge via the OE 10A (maybe 15A at the most) cigarette adapter back there.

    1996 Montero SR (3.5L v6, rear Locker), 35" mudders, 3.15:1 xcase crawler gears
    Build Thread: http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...su-build-up...
    1989 SWB Montero RS (3.0L v6, rear LSD), 33" mudders (sold)
    1990 LWB Montero LS (3.0L v6, rear LSD), 33" mudders (gave to rxinhed)
    1990 LWB Montero LS (3.0L v6, rear LSD), 31" AT's (rolled 1st time I ever drove off road)

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Culver City
    Posts
    206
    The 30a fuse on the trailer charge line often blows (small wire size). The trailer battery is a pair of 6v T105. Part of the overall plan is upgrading size and quality of the wire for the trailer charge. It can also be used to back up battery 1 for starting or winching if needed, thus a larger fuse is required.

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