PSA regarding aftermarket lift kits

[clandr1]

Just an FYI so whoever reads this thread can learn from the error of my ways.

Don't lift your vehicle just because you feel like you should. If it does what you need it to in factory form, LEAVE IT BE. I had a 2.5" lift installed in July 2010, and now due to recurring annoyances (leaf springs settling, driveline vibrations, creaks & squeaks that weren't there before) I'm going to convert the truck back to factory springs and stock height.

I'm expecting better road manners, less noise, less/zero driveline vibration, and I'll be able to eliminate the transfer case drop (1.5"). This was caused by Superlift front springs that settled to the point of me gaining a net 0.5" of lift.


Has anyone else experienced a similar epiphany?

 

[Metcalf]

I kept my dodge as close to stock height as possible for this very reason. I went the route of sectioning the fenders to get the tire size I wanted. It worked out VERY well in the end in my opinion. I'm running basically a 39" tire and am able to daily drive, tow, haul, 'wheel, etc. I still also get 20mpg+ on highway trips if I keep it under 70mph. I think lift height more adversely effects frontal area than tire size.

 

[warrpath4x4]

i would have a couple questions,

did you buy quality or cheap?

was it a kit or was it pieced together?

did you have new springs in the rear or just blocks?

i dont believe in buying cookie cutter lift kits, im guessing it was on your blazer in your avatar. heres what i would have done (and might do to mine)

shackle flip rear with stock springs, relocate shocks, 52" springs front, cross over steering, adjusting wedge as necessary because not all rigs are the same, new drivelines, possible SYE depending on what case you have.

this combo will give you 4" lift, more flex than you will ever think a leaf can flex, and ride and steer like a caddy

 

[Buliwyf]

Trucks are built, not bought. Same goes for quality suspensions.

I never go more than 4" higher. After that fenders and body mods work best. And it's rare that I recommend a lift kit without replacing a few parts. Not many kits out there that are perfect.

But a minor lift, built right, can be far superior than factory. Sounds like your mechanic just didn't know what he was doing. Haveing the same guy return it to stock will most likely net another series of odd problems.

 

[clandr1]

It was a complete Superlift kit, not sure if that qualifies as good or cheap. Springs all around, although blocks were added in the rear initially because the rear sagged compared to the front after install.

I don't agree with your statement that a truck rides or handles better with 4" of lift under any circumstances. Based on what I've seen I don't think you're able to retain the use of the sway bar if you go crossover. I've driven my truck without the sway bar (modestly lifted mind you) and it was downright scary.

As for the installer, it was 4 wheel parts. I'm not happy with their customer service, but as for their install work I think it was up to par. I will be doing the labor on the return to factory ride, and I'm probably as anal as anyone when it comes to doing something right. I helped a friend install a 2.5" OME lift on his FZJ80, so I'm confident in my ability to do this correctly.

I'm not arguing that you shouldn't lift a vehicle. I'm just saying be aware that there are going to be issues (and costs) that a first timer will not be aware of until they are already in the thick of it and you have to decide if all that cost and work are worth what you gain in the end.

For me, all I wanted was the ability to run 33" tires and have a little more ground clearance. I can run 33's stock, and I don't need a ton of clearance because I won't be doing any hard core offroading. Not to mention this truck is very capable from the factory. It's all a matter of cost vs. benefit, and I personally would encourage someone to seriously think about how much the "need" that lift for their application.

 

[toymaster]

Sounds like you had a bad experience with lower-end lift manufactured parts along with improper installation. I am sure your drive shaft and pinion alignment is the cause for your vibrations. There should be no need for a transfer case drop with a 2.5" lift. A new longer driveshaft with a CV joint by the transfer case and proper pinion alignment with tapered blocks or shims will probably fix the vibrations. A 23 year old truck is going to have some creaks each one has to be tracked down; I'm sure a few have to deal with your springs and sway bar.

My advice is find reputable shop, there are a few in Dallas. If you want a lifted truck then do it right. Extra ground clearance and larger tires have their role in off road use.

 

[Buliwyf]

Icon and Carli make superb kits that will improve ride quality quit a bit. But you will pay for it. BDS makes excellent kits as well.

I'm piecing my own kit together when I get back from my big towing trip this fall. 2.5" Icon spring, Icon adj. trac bar, 5" rear block (1" higher than F350 so the truck isn't quite level), BDS carrier bearing drop, Bilstein 5100 shocks.

Do your homework and get what you need to fit your 33" tires. Get good stuff and do it yourself. Factory parts are sometimes the best, but not usually in the world of suspension.

Cheap springs creak and groan, sometimes the best springs still do as well. Superlift has some good stuff sometimes, but if you're picky there are better options. Superlift has more of an agricultural feel to thier kits. They get the job done, but are usually not intended for plush expensive trucks, but grassroots trail rigs instead.

If we're talking about an 80's GM, it's going to have some fine "character" anyways. Never have I driven another vehicle that was so talkative about what it's suspension was doing. I could literally tell when I was on a rock by the sounds the chassis made.

4WP is about on par with Vatozone in my area.

 

[darien]

I lifted my Discovery because it had POS airbag suspension that failed on me while miles back on a trail, leaving me scared and limping home on the bump stops, crossing creeks, etc. But I chose a high quality lift (OME) and a modest height (2"). It was one of the best decisions I made regarding that miserable vehicle. The tiny fender wells on a Discovery pretty much mandated some amount of lift to run slightly larger tire.

My F250 has comparatively enormous wheel wells, and as I intend to mount a bumper and winch, I will level the front end, but not lift it. I'm going to use BDS and have it installed by people I trust locally. Then I'll go up a small amount in tire size and I'm done. I see local guys with 44" tires and 6" lifts and my heart goes out to them.

I always try to remember the Camel Trophy, and what those guys were able to do on stock suspensions. Lifts are largely cosmetic if you know how to drive and approach offroad travel with a serious mindset, not a "Hey, watch this..." attitude.

 

[redthies]

I don't think much more needs to be added to this. If you run a 2"-3" lift that is properly engineered and installed it CAN be a great improvement over stock. This is not always the case. Cheap kits are cheap for a reason. They are fine for a high school kid who wants "the look". If you plan to load up your rig and USE it, then you have to spend some real money on a properly engineered system.

 

[Regcabguy]

I've got suspension components from Carli,Lorenz and Thuren. I'm running 2" of lift with my Northstar. These components replaced the woefully weak front coils,shocks and rear leafs on my '07 Dodge Ram. Handling with the camper with the stock suspension was scary at best.

I'm a firm believer in keeping the COG as stock as possible,but my case a minor lift works well.

 

[Buliwyf]

I.

My F250 has comparatively enormous wheel wells, and as I intend to mount a bumper and winch, I will level the front end, but not lift it. I'm going to use BDS and have it installed by people I trust locally. Then I'll go up a small amount in tire size and I'm done. I see local guys with 44" tires and 6" lifts and my heart goes out to them.

.

The BDS level kit works great. But the 1" is all the F250 can take. You'll need 4" F350 rear blocks for the 2.5" kit. Otherwise the truck will sit "Cali low" in the rear. A 5" block is what I'm going to try, that way I'll still have some rake.

I'm using a 2.5" spring instead of a spacer. That way I can add BDS's 1" spacer if I need to later, should I choose a heavy winch bumper setup that'll cause the truck to sag. The only weird thing is that the long lift springs are often bent looking, they don't allways sit straight. Not really a problem though.