How to make a cheap isolated dual-battery setup for $50

dlichterman

Explorer
question. how would i translate this to putting the second battery on the trailer?

I want to run a fridge off its own battery on the trailer but charge when the jeep is connected and running.

What kind of trailer connection do you have? 7 pin should have a dedicated 12V charging line(black), but it may not be beefy enough.

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Alternatively you could run some larger gauge wire back to the bumper and use Anderson SB175s or similar as a quick disconnect.
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I have a 7 pin but not sure how to wire it so it only charges while running. id hate to park it for the night and have it kill my starting battery
 

dlichterman

Explorer
I have a 7 pin but not sure how to wire it so it only charges while running. id hate to park it for the night and have it kill my starting battery

I'm not sure if it is always hot - that might vary by vehicle. Got a multimeter? Go find out if it's always hot or just when the key is on.
 
its not connected. I have a 7 pin but the power lead isnt run yet. I need to do that.

no worried about jumping the rig if the jeep battery dies. Ill just use some normal jumpers if that every happens. Roughly how long will a edgestar 60qt run on a 12 volt battery?
 

dlichterman

Explorer
its not connected. I have a 7 pin but the power lead isnt run yet. I need to do that.

no worried about jumping the rig if the jeep battery dies. Ill just use some normal jumpers if that every happens. Roughly how long will a edgestar 60qt run on a 12 volt battery?

Oh, so you dont have the black wire at all? If you're gonna have to run new wire I'd go as large as you can, and then you can pretty much follow the guide posted here with the solenoid.

As for the fridge that really depends on temps and what it's set to. If you drive a good couple hours every day it should be fine, but if you plan to have the trailer sit somewhere you might consider solar.
 
currently I do a bit of both.
Wanting to get 2 days at 90* outside and temp set to 34 ish inside.

I can probably run 2ga. its a jeep so thats easy enough.

What about ground. can i just use the ground in the plug or will i need to run a larger cable too?
 

dlichterman

Explorer
currently I do a bit of both.
Wanting to get 2 days at 90* outside and temp set to 34 ish inside.

I can probably run 2ga. its a jeep so thats easy enough.

What about ground. can i just use the ground in the plug or will i need to run a larger cable too?

Honestly, since you're having to run wires I'd almost be inclined to make it completely separate from the trailer hitch. If you used anderson products you could hook the truck to the trailer and then when you get to camp use that same anderson connection on a solar panel and charge controller.

For the ground I'd be worried about what gauge it is. This is why I said it might be better to just make it separate from the trailer wiring. But perhaps someone else could chime in. I used 4ga on my setup and it seems to be fine, I don't think you'd need to go down to 2.
 

coolfeet

Mark Keeler
I finally completed my dual battery isolator set up using the CTEK D250S. I know it's not the super cool $50 home made set up. I was fortunate enough too have 2 CTEK engineers and an electrical engineer friend walk me through all the steps and complete the portable power supply for approximately $500 including the battery.

My friend engineer Dan located Ford's auxiliary trailer battery charging circuit and spliced 12/3 SO cord into and the CTEK D250S.
He added the SO cord quick connects to make my unit portable. He wired everything at night in the dark using a basic wire cutter and crimper tool with a headlamp mounted to his forehead. He completed the installation in less than 1 hour. He supplied me with all the wire and crimps.

I used the portable battery box for nearly 4 weeks on a van camping road trip to Canada. The only thing that killed the battery was running the portable Fantastic Vent Fan all night and charging my wife's Macbook during the day with a power inverter instead of the 12 volt power adapter. The ARB has a built in cut-off switch that shuts down when the battery reaches about 60%. Unfortunately, the Fantastic Vent Fan and power inverter do not have any cut off built in.

The 12/3 SO cord is really cool stuff as it's flexible and easily stored inside the van. It rolls up like a garden hose. It can take a lot of abuse as it's coated with some strong rubber like material. We used an extra 15 feet so I can take the battery outside of the van useeor move it to different places inside the van.

I know that it has one extra connection. We had only a few hours for the install and this was the most convenient route at 9 PM in the dark. Even though his company sells the stuff on Ebay and Amazon, he bought the cord at Home Depot because it came with the mail and female ends. The quick connect made it simple to move the portable power supply in and out of the van.

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I bought the LifeLine 80 amp hour sealed AGM battery because I planned in advance to spend the extra money. My friend told me that the Chinese battery would be good enough. I wanted a US made battery with clean connections, longer warranty, and one that has been tested in the field by real users like us. At the end of the day, it cost about $80 more than an equivalent Asian import.
portablepowresupply.jpg




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LifeLineBattery.jpg

For charging the battery at home and on the road when stationary, I bought the CTEK 4.3 charger. I heard about CTEK on the Expedition Portal. I contacted the company directly to get more information and they have been very helpful.

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This is not an advertisement for CTEK as I have no vested interest with them. With that said, they are very helpful and will go the extra mile with you. It was an easy 12th hour solution as we installed the unit in the dark with a flashlight. Most of the parts were bought with Amazon Prime and delivered the day before the install. I should plan better.

My buddy informed me at 11 PM that I needed new front shocks. I woke up at 5:30 AM, drank a cup of coffee and had the shocks installed my 930 AM. We were on the road to Canada by 3 PM.
 
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prince_ruben

New member
I may have missed this but can someone please clarify. Although the starter battery and house battery will have cable running from both negative poles, does the house battery require a ground?
 

dlichterman

Explorer
So I've had my dual battery system working great for a while, but I recently purchased a new vehicle and my truck sat on the driveway for an extended period of time and the battery was dead when I went to start it. I didn't even have enough juice to trigger the relay and had to use a jump pack to get them to join. I've got a 100W solar panel on the roof hooked up to the aux battery, but not the main starting battery.

Is there something simple I can add that would charge the house battery when the aux battery is topped off? It'd be kinda funny to have the 100W panel on the roof, yet not be able to use it to charge both batteries. Some sort of diode based thing to make it only flow in one direction, and I could have a switch on it so it'd only happen when I want?
 

greenbull

Adventurer
Man I was going to ask the same thing! My starting battery has a small drain I can not find, and the aux battery is getting plenty from a 100 watt solar panel...
 

The Rover Shop

Explorer
Go onto eBay and buy a VSR... Voltage sensing relay.. When the one battery gets to 13.2 volts it turns on and allows the charge to go to the other (main) battery thereby keeping it fully topped up..
 

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