That controller is designed to charge a battery. It needs a battery on its output to do anything. Its not like a power supply that puts out voltage whether there is a load or not. If you hook up a fully charged battery you won't see much. Try putting a load on the battery, like a brake light or turn signal bulb. You should see at least 2A out of the controller with that load.
A word of warning: Some charge controllers will be destroyed if they have power on the panel connections but no battery connected. I destroyed a 4.5A SunGuard unit that way at work a few years back. No smoke, no flames, just dead. I hope for your sake the SS-10 does not have that issue.
Since you are going through a metal roof with your wiring a fuse at the panels would be a good idea, but not necessary. They are limited to about 6.5-7A short circuit current and even 16AWG wire can handle that without melting. You should be using at least 12AWG there. You could fuse them at 10A. AFAIK the panels can put out short circuit current all day with no damage.
A word of warning: Some charge controllers will be destroyed if they have power on the panel connections but no battery connected. I destroyed a 4.5A SunGuard unit that way at work a few years back. No smoke, no flames, just dead. I hope for your sake the SS-10 does not have that issue.
Since you are going through a metal roof with your wiring a fuse at the panels would be a good idea, but not necessary. They are limited to about 6.5-7A short circuit current and even 16AWG wire can handle that without melting. You should be using at least 12AWG there. You could fuse them at 10A. AFAIK the panels can put out short circuit current all day with no damage.