Don't make the same mistake I did, which is to crank your torsion bars up to near level with the back. All this does whether you have stock or HD OME torsion bars, is to make the front wheels skip over bumps rather than rebound nicely as if you had coils.
I've been told by a 4x4 specialist, and maybe I'm totally wrong, but you should have between 30-60 mm difference from front to back.
Lower at the front. This way the front won't be wound up so tight that the torsion bar is near the end of its twisting force. I wound mine back down on this principal and it was so much better.
Nice to see the work you're doing.
Curious though about your drawer design in this pic...
Am I right in assuming it isn't accessed from the top but from the side instead?
1989 SWB Montero (3.0L v6, rear LSD), 33" mudders
1996 Montero SR (3.5L v6, rear Locker), 35" mudders, 3.15:1 xcase crawler gears
Build Thread: http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...su-build-up...
Yes thats correct...Its my counter
1991 Mitsubishi pajero
1980 Volvo 245 wagon