Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Thread: Max Coupler inverted

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Hemet, SoCal
    Posts
    317

    Default Max Coupler inverted

    anyone else hitching up using this method ?
    Concerns ? issues ?

    My only concern thus far...
    is that the primary nut isn't pinned or safety wired

    Otherwise... it seems to be functioning as it does upright

    it does seem more of a pita to hitch the bushing end...
    coming up from the underside, to pin thru the saddle bracket









  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Born in USA live in U.S.S.A.
    Posts
    585

    Default Pinning

    I'd say drill n pin it, however, w/o knowing fastener specs suggest going to higher grade fasteners if need be.
    1999 GMC K2500 BURBAN, NAVISTAR enhanced 6.5 td aftercooled, dual alt's, PSC p/s pump w/HD cooler, redundant FSD's, HEATH program, turbine/downpipe wrapped, 4" SS exhaust, real time OBD2 data logging w/device controller, EVANS waterless coolant @ zero (0) psi & 135 gpm pump, 4L80e w/kevlar and premium steel w/cryo treated input/output shafts running @ 100 deg. F & 140 deg F towing, all synthetic fluids, AMSOIL bypass system, MileMarker hydro, dual fuel tanks, and on and on, questions PM me.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Clark, Wyoming
    Posts
    371
    OK, with the hitch inverted all the tongue weight is bearing on the threads of the main bolt & nut. Properly installed the forces on the threads are only those required to keep the assembly clamped together.

    The second thing I see is the receiver mount used appears to be to thick. I had the same problem with mine. All of my existing mounts were of the old school variety. Sierra trailers was kind enough to give me one of the other designs that are thinner when I picked up my trailer. There should be at least a couple of bolt threads past the end of the nylon. By design the bolt is not made to be tightned; the bolt must be loose enough to allow the hitch to pivot but, not too loose.

    I would visit wally world to buy the proper height mount taking care to examine the thickness.
    JK 2dr rubi Garage
    2000 F350 CC LWB 7.3 4x4
    2003 F550 6.0 4x4
    2006 R1
    1999 35' 5th wheel RV

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Prescott, AZ, USA
    Posts
    4,153
    Using of a longer bolt would be helpful. You need to have threads exposed beyond the nylock nut. I think specs calls for 3 rings of threads beyond the nut.

    I'm sure that the coupler will function this way, but the design is spec'd for it to work the other way around. As stated you are now putting the weight of the trailer on the threads and nut, rather than the weight being taken by the drawer bar and the nut and bolt locating the coupler and compressing it in place.

    I'm left scratching my head wondering why you want to run it this way around?? It seems from the pictures you are tongue high and reversing the coupler would bring you to level.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Beacon, NY
    Posts
    1,150
    This ^^

    and it seems if for some reason if the nut worked off...the bolt just falls out and you're relying on the safety chains at that point. I do like the thought of a roll pin or something installed to prevent it from backing off. Does anyone (Chris?) know the proper bolt size to get 3 full threads showing?
    The R.O.A.M. Camper Build...Recreation Optimized Allterrian Module
    In Development....R.O.A.M II
    Toyota 2010 4Runner Silver Trail Edition

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Hemet, SoCal
    Posts
    317
    Thanks for your reply's and input...

    I tried to utilize a 5 1/4" drop hitch to get the trailer to sit as level.

    That works... but I guess I don't like it hanging down that low...
    as that creates additional concern on the trail for hang ups.

    I did this because... I don't want to have to do a spring over... to obtain the ride height I need.
    Nor am I interested in swapping out the axle, + new wheels/tires etc. (don't really want the expense involved in that)

    I'm thinking of purchasing new tires... Likely 7.50 Military (32.5" I believe)
    and those should bring the ride height closer to my current hauler's 295's
    I would then assemble the MC as I had it previous and would feel better about that.

    This is just a temporary measure... until I can afford to drop the dimes and nickles on those tires.

    Bottom line... it would seem... I either have to go larger in tire diameter... or drop the axle under the leaf paks

    btw... even when inverted... the Max C is still turning on the nylon/delrin disc(s)
    and the bolt is not turning... though it does have to be fairly snug to be sure the bolt doesn't move as an assembly.
    I also came to realize that the metal washer have two different sides to them... one flat, the other rounded.
    and those must be in the correct assembly order... or the Max C doesn't spin on the nylon/delrin washers.

    I drove it around a bit the other day... and checked things a few times... and it looked to be staying as put.
    But like others have mentioned here... I'm not so excited about the the nut's thread being the only security here.

    I'll try locating a longer bolt and see if that makes me feel more comfortable.

    If someone knows the actual thickness of what the drop hitch mount thickness should be..? that would be of help to me.
    I already own 5 different assorted drop hitches in order to adjust for the trailer's ride height to my truck...
    guess I could buy some more...

    or what about grinding the ones I do have... down to the correct thickness ? Bad idea ?

    thanks

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Clark, Wyoming
    Posts
    371
    ^^^^ Grinding it is not going to hurt anything. The only thing is doing it by hand it will be hard to get a perfectly flat surface.
    JK 2dr rubi Garage
    2000 F350 CC LWB 7.3 4x4
    2003 F550 6.0 4x4
    2006 R1
    1999 35' 5th wheel RV

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    609
    Quote Originally Posted by TacoDell View Post
    That works... but I guess I don't like it hanging down that low...
    as that creates additional concern on the trail for hang ups.
    Above quote is reason I wouldn't invert the Max Coupler... rather have the Ball Mount take a trail hit, than the Max Coupler.

  9. #9
    Off in another direction, I'd also make sure that bumper is rated to tow. Many bumpers have receivers, but that doesn't mean they're there for towing. Many bumper receivers are there for mounting accesories such as bike racks.


    Herb
    1969 Bronco, 351W, ZF 5spd + Atlas
    2001 Ford Excursion 4x4, 7.3L
    2012 Appalachian Teardrops Krawler 459

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Hemet, SoCal
    Posts
    317
    Quote Originally Posted by BroncoHauler View Post
    Off in another direction, I'd also make sure that bumper is rated to tow. Many bumpers have receivers, but that doesn't mean they're there for towing. Many bumper receivers are there for mounting accesories such as bike racks.


    Herb
    I reinforced my All-Pro bumper myself... 'cause it's not rated to tow much in it's original config.
    I trust my weld/fabrication work more then what I could buy elsewhere... rated or not.
    Believe me... my Rr. bumper/hitch mount is beefier then the frame rails that support it.

    ^ for the first gen Tacoma trucks...
    the rear frame rails are really the weak point...
    tho' I have yet to box mine... I did weld reinforcement plates to the outer surface of each rail
    and they're holding up good to towing abuses and many a trail poundings.

    Also my M100 trailer has a max GVW of 1350#'s
    This bumper will drag that around all day long, anywhere...
    with little worry.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •