Maryland to Alaska - Running solo and wandering the back roads

[xjaugie]

Day 11
April 29, 2012
Hanging out in Prince Rupert BC

A day of rest. The ferry to Ketchikan AK does not arrive until Tuesday. Today I did some laundry and rested up from the long run across the country.

At daylight, I did take a walk through town, stopping at a local breakfast shop for tea and egg sandwich. Just as with any town across the country, this was the place for locals to stop for a morning coffee and catch up on the daily gossip. In Montana the talk was centered on the conditions of the hay fields, in North Dakota is was about beef prices, here the talked centered on fishing and latest arrival of ships needing unloaded.

Late in the afternoon, I went for a short drive out of town and found a hiking trail. The 2.8 Kilometer trail highlighted the Butz Rapids. Here with the incoming tide, the water runs up the rapids, filling the upriver lake. When the tide returns to the sea, the river once again flows out. Reading the informational sign, I another sign grabbed my attention. The sign warned on wolves and bear in the area and hikers should not bring their pets on the trail and should carry bear spray and whistle.

A light rain fell on the afternoon. I heeded the warning sign and over my rain gear I strapped on my bear spray. Not far along the trail, two college aged girls passed returning to the parking lot. Each girl was walking with their dogs and was dressed in jogging attire.

Further along the trail, I crossed paths with a family complete with two little dogs and a baby stroller. Ok, so now I was feeling a little over dressed for the trail. Several joggers were also using the trail. Seems like here in the pacific rain forest a little drizzle does not keep people at home. People of all ages, most with their dogs in tow, and, at the most, wore only a light rain coat hiked the trail. Here I was in my total rain suit of bibs and jacket, and my bear spray hanging over my shoulder. I felt a little over dressed and embarrassed.

locals on the trail_edited-2.jpg
me in full rain gear_edited-1.jpg

Close to the end of the hike, I met up with a few women, walking their dogs and young son. I asked about the sign. They explained they have not seen any sign of wolves or bear in the area for a few years, but said they are around. And the rain, it’s just part of life around here. Driving back into town, I noticed a family picnic including a bone fire and a baseball game being played.

Tomorrow, I’m going to drop the kayak into the sound and do some back cove exploring – rain or no rain.

[xjaugie]

Day 12
April 30, 2012
Paddling the ‘yak and fishing

All of the water surrounding me was getting the best of me and I needed to get the kayak floating. I did not carry it 4,000 miles for it to be just a truck ornament. Even though I did get a few odd looks driving through the Grasslands and Badlands of the west with a Kayak. More than one person questioned my use such a thing in their part of the country.

Today, with the same light on/off rainy mist that has been falling since my arrival in Prince Rupert BC two days ago, I ventured out for some paddling water. The search was easy. I am on the Canadian Pacific Island coast after all.

I head east on Route 16 - the only road in and out of town. I crossed a rusty steel bridge with a tidal creek flowing under. The creek opened up into a large tidal bay. Clumps of kelp, seaweed, floats with the tide on top of the dark almost black acidic looking water. From my roadside vantage, I can see several rocky islands, and channels weaving in and through the countless islands.

A muddy road beckoned. The Toyota turned and began to travel the muddy road. The narrow road quickly opened up into a large muddy, what seemed to be a parking lot. The area looked very similar to some of the construction sites I have worked over the years. Only one big difference, this one had a boat ramp. Closer investigation reviled that this was a logging staging area for floating logs down the river to the pulp processing plant.

I’m standing next to my truck, looking things over when I guy walked by. I ask, “Is it OK to launch my Kayak here?” Half an hour later, I know all I need to, to catch the “jacks” in the area. These are young salmon that have not made the return to the ocean yet. These fish are over five pounds in size. Sounds like a deal to me, not many five pound smallmouth swimming in the Monocacy back home.

My new local friend is joined by the rest of the carpentry crew and they drive farther back the muddy road. They are building a floating dock home. I don’t fully get it, but don’t push the issue, I got fishing intel and that’s cool enough for me. See the tides run almost ten feet here, it seldom is sunny, or warm, but someone wants to have a floating dock home?

The fishing gear has been s packed in the front section of the truck bed in a large BassPro waterproof tackle bag since my leaving Westminster. My rods have traveled the trek across the country on the ski rack turned fishing rod holder on the bed rack. As I unload, the kayak, remove the rods, roll up the bed cover, and remove the bag and began to assemble a reel to a rod, I notice the local carpenters are watching. One comments, “nice packing job.”

“Thanks.” Is all I say, but inside I swell at the comment knowing all the planning that went into converting my truck into the rig I wanted. So far, it has worked as planned and that’s a nice feeling of accomplishment. Anyone can spend a lot of money for a new fancy truck, but I have less than half what a new truck would cost into this Tacoma, and it serves me much better than a new one would.

A silver Mepps #2 in is tied on the 12 pound test line of my seven foot heavy fresh water/light salt water weight rod. With the camera stored in a waterproof backpack, and life jacket on, I stepped over the kayak and dropped in. One push of the paddle and I’m here doing it. I’m kayak fishing a Pacific Coast tidal river for salmon. Wow.

Not all goes as planned. The lure selection based on the local’s suggestion is too light for the heavy line. My casts do not travel far enough to get the spinner as deep as it needs. Not that is matters a whole lot. The sights of my surroundings hold my attention more than the possibility of catching a fish. Three eagles are perched on a tall pine. Ducks swam in the back coves. Bears are commonly found feeding on the river banks during this time of year, so I’m told, and I am constantly searching for them.

The sounds coming from the thick dark woods above the rocky shores are unfamiliar. A whole different collection of birds and mammals live out here. I float, drifting with the tide and wind listening to the new sounds.

three eagles.jpg

Island in cove_edited-1.jpg
For the next few hours, I explore the back coves, and cuts between the islands of the tidal river bay. A light rain fell the entire time, but I am getting used to it and like the locals hardly notice the watery sunshine.

This is going to be a cool summer. Tomorrow I ride the ferry over to Ketchikan. This stage of the adventure has come to a close and tomorrow starts a new phase. Am I a little just apprehensive? Sure who wouldn’t be.

[xjaugie]

Day 13
May 1, 2012
Arrive in Ketchikan

Today is the day. The day I make the final stage of the trek across the continent and arrive in Alaska. I board the ferry at 8:00 AM. The ferry ride will last five hours. A time to reflect of the last 12 days and ponder the next 5 months.

loading on ferry.jpg

In some ways, the trip went extremely fast and in many ways it feels like a lifetime ago I was in Westminster commuting to Baltimore daily.

The final days before leaving was a whirlwind of packing and storing stuff, finishing the preparation of the truck and saying the good byes. Not until I reached the Northwood of Minnesota, did what I was doing really register, even then I was focused on the trip on hand, not giving much thought about the 5 months ahead at the end of the road. But now as I sit on the ferry gazing out at the snowcapped mountains touching the ocean, I cannot help but notice the other passengers.

The feeling of loneliness overcame me, as I noticed the others travel in groups. I’m 4,000 miles from my home, my family, my friends and all that is familiar to me. I began to wonder and question what I am about to undertake.

Quietly I pray.

I over hear a group of college aged students talk of their jobs of the summer and their excitement is catchy. A little while later I step outside of the ferry to take photos of a light house on a rocky island. A passenger standing next to me opened a conversation. In a few minutes, I am sharing my photographs of my recent travels. As it turned out, the other men sitting in our area are also in route to Ketchikan to work for the summer. One older gentleman has guided fishermen and driven the tourist duck boats, working in Ketchikan for 28 years. Another is working for the summer as a pilot. They told stories of past summers. I met a few other people on the five hour trip also traveling to Ketchikan to work for the summer. We exchange stories of what has brought us here, and I quickly feel as if I am among likeminded people. A feeling sometimes missed back home.

lighthouse on island.jpg

The ferry landed. I phone my landlord and we met at a local diner for a quick cup of coffee and directions to the house. He had to go and make one more fight, taking fishermen out to a lodge. I found the house with the front door unlocked and make myself at home in my new place.

For the next five months, I will be working as an adventure Kart tour guide. What my life beyond that has in store, I do not know. I do know my life is in God’s hands and with him I’ll be taking this walk.

[Diesel YJ]

This is amazing mainly for the fast that I work in Reisterstown (Camp Frettered, Westminster, MD) and live in Frederick when not deployed to middle east. This is the exact trip I have been loosely planning for when I come home and have leave before reporting back to duty. I am eagerly watching your thread and wishing you safe travels along the way. Please keep us up to date!

Mike

[xjaugie]

Mike, When I was in the MDANG, I worked on the first projects construction Camp Frettered many years ago. Mike do you below to the MJC ? If so, we may have had wings together at BWW. I used to drive the Green XJ locked on 33's. I know a lot of them around Westminster. I used to write for JP magizine and Low Range Magazine.

[BobA]

Great trip report,Good luck with the job.

[azken]

Thanks for taking the time to post your experiences. Your writing and photos are most enjoyable. I wish you the very best in your endeavors.

[rkj__]

Great report. Thanks for sharing.

[Red Zebra]

Great report. May your path continue to unfold to meet your expectations.

[Diesel YJ]

Mike, When I was in the MDANG, I worked on the first projects construction Camp Frettered many years ago. Mike do you below to the MJC ? If so, we may have had wings together at BWW. I used to drive the Green XJ locked on 33's. I know a lot of them around Westminster. I used to write for JP magizine and Low Range Magazine.

I do belong to MJC, I am trying to think back now and I think I remember your Jeep. I am absolutely horrible with names (Army name tags work great for me!!). When did you work at the Camp?