"Old Man's Toy" offroad teardrop trailer

[old_man]

The XJ is running 35's on 5x5.5" Ford bolt pattern while the trailer is running 31's on 5x4.5" Jeep bolt pattern.

I'm thinking about drilling the trailer drums so that they can handle the larger bolt circle as well so in a pinch I could use the Jeep's spare. I carry a full patch kit and CO2 setup. I may just throw in a inner tube for the trailer in in case the damage can't be easily patched.

As far as the corner jig, I actually have two; the good one shown(Bessey) and a HF unit. I don't totally trust the corner jigs. A large t-square and a tape measure are your best friend.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006694FA/...hvptwo=&hvqmt=

This is quite a bit cheaper

http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-770565-...ref=pd_cp_hi_0

[jim65wagon]

Looks like a good start and a fun project!

For the record, our trailer has the same type and size tire as the truck (285/75/16 - technically a 33", but mounted on a vehicle it's about a 32-1/4")

[old_man]

I'm going to skin this with Filon. What have you folks used as backer for the Filon? Since my "studs" are pretty close together, I was thinking of attaching it directly to the frame with Scotch 4011 tape. Between the interior and exterior walls will be 1" styrofoam and the frame is 1" steel tubing. If I back it, my choices seem to be luan, masonite, plywood.

[Titanpat57]

I would be concerned about flex, expansion and contraction of unlike materials (metal vs. Filon) unless it's a proven, accepted industry standard.

I would consider products that would handle some moisture, in the event of joint failure or some water intrusion. Perhaps marine grade plywood?

One thing that has kind of been in the back of my mind...is if there a condensation concern within the metal itself, due to varying temperature extremes...ie -25 at night, and 60 inside the camper.

I guess I'm not adding many solutions...but the build is coming out great!

Pat

[old_man]

What ever I use, I will seal it before putting it up. Filon is routinely used on motorhomes and they have metal frames. I've seen it used on ambulances with Scotch 4011 tape. I am just wondering if the styrofoam backing is enough. I will most likely use a backer board on the inside. I plan to skin the inside with FRP.

[berg]

subscribed

[JeepSWAG]

Subscribed.

I recently read an article about a trailer rebuild. It was a pretty serious build and I think in Oz. They originally used VHB tape to glue panels to the support structure. I searched around and couldn't find the article. Anyway, for the rebuild they chose to use sikaflex. The problem with tapes is one of tolerances between surfaces that need to stick together. The advantage to sikaflex was gap filling. It was the best real world example that I have seen for why one should consider such adhesives. I've seen other articles where guys used it in place of rivets. Not cheap, but good stuff from what I understand.

On my next build I'll still most likely use mechanical fasteners. I like powder coat and I'm not sure that any of the adhesives would handle the heat from powder coating.

[old_man]

Subscribed.

I recently read an article about a trailer rebuild. It was a pretty serious build and I think in Oz. They originally used VHB tape to glue panels to the support structure. I searched around and couldn't find the article. Anyway, for the rebuild they chose to use sikaflex. The problem with tapes is one of tolerances between surfaces that need to stick together. The advantage to sikaflex was gap filling. It was the best real world example that I have seen for why one should consider such adhesives. I've seen other articles where guys used it in place of rivets. Not cheap, but good stuff from what I understand.

On my next build I'll still most likely use mechanical fasteners. I like powder coat and I'm not sure that any of the adhesives would handle the heat from powder coating.

Which formula? 221 looks pretty common but they have many versions. It is way cheaper than the SEM adhesive.

[Woods]

Found the article that I was thinking of, but am now thinking you may have read it. This was posted in your thread asking about adhesives. On the following page, skip to the paragraph heading of "Fastening". It has info. about which flavor of Sika to use.

I'm going to bookmark this page. It seems to be good info.

http://www.robgray.com/graynomad/wot...y_19/index.php

From the article:

Fastening
Last time we used 3M VHB (Very High Bond) double sided tape to fasten the sheets.

It worked well but on Wothahellizat 2 we're using Sikaflex. There are a few reasons for this.

Firstly, when I was dismantling the old body I had a hell of a time removing the panels that were fixed with VHB but at least it was possible with hand tools. However the single panel that was glued on with Sikaflex (for reasons that escape me now) was impossible to remove manually. I had to rip it off with a fork lift.

Next there's the surface preparation. Unlike the standard double-sided (or "mirror") tape that's fairly thick and a little spongy, VHB is only 1mm thick and has no give at all. Therefore the surface has to be almost perfectly true or there will be gaps between the frame and the sheet.

This is difficult to achieve.

Sikaflex on the other hand can be globbed on in just about any thickness, so I don't have to grind every weld perfectly flat and I can adjust the thickness to ensure that adjoining sheets meet evenly.

VHB sticks instantly, you only get one chance to position the sheet. If you place the sheet and immediately realise it's not quite right you can remove it but you ruin the tape because half will stay on the frame and the other half will come away with the sheet. If you don't notice an error until after a few minutes during which time you've pressed the sheet home and maybe helped it along with a rubber mallet, bad luck, you'll ruin the sheet if you try to remove it.

Sikaflex on the other hand takes several minutes to go off, plenty of time to adjust the sheet's placement.

Using Sikaflex
Firstly, which Sikaflex to use? I asked several people, including some in the truck body building game, and they all said 227.

Then I looked on the Sika website, They state quite clearly that 252 is the recommended product for panels on truck bodies. I rang Sika here in Australia and got the same answer so that's what I'm using.

They also state that the area to be glued should be cleaned with their 205 cleaner and primed with 210 primer.

Now maybe they just want to sell more products, but I think it makes sense to follow the party line, so that's what I'm doing.

I apply the glue very liberally and try to ensure that just a little squeezes out from around the edge of the sheet. I then resist the urge to wipe the excess or clean up in any way, do this and you will spend the next half hour with black sticky crap everywhere, several rags stuck to your fingers, and a worse mess than you started with. Let it dry, it's easy to cut off with a knife.

Clamping. Sikaflex provides quite a good bond immediately, even a large sheet will stay in place and will not fall off the frame once it has touched the glue. So I find that minimal clamping is required, certainly you should not clamp too tightly as this will expunge the glue from the clamped area.

The sheet will however slide downwards and this has to be addressed, but not by clamping. With a large sheet I feel that the force required to hold it up by clamping alone is too great. Also you need to be able to rest the sheet in position several times while cutting and trimming it to shape. Therefore I feel that some simple support is required and I've made a few widgets that I can clamp to the body in various ways to provide "platforms" to rest the sheet on. These stay in place until I feel that the glue has set enough to support the sheet.

[old_man]

I checked out your trailer build, that is real sweet. My wife hates tents so It had to be enclosed. The funny thing is that we are taking our Select Comfort mattress from the house and putting it in the teardrop and getting a new one for our bedroom. Nothing like roughing it ;-)