Will It Roll?

country2757

New member
I have always been into Rally Cars because I like the adrenaline of going fast and jumping and drifting. I am getting into drywalling with my dad so I need a Truck to haul all my tools. I have been looking into prerunners and it sounds like just about the same concepts as rally racing. One thing I always liked about my rally car is that it was able to carve pavement like nothing at high speeds. My question is if I get a mid-travel kit (can't afford long travel), how will it do at high speeds on pavement through turns? I would try to keep it low and wider but I am just wondering if with the upgraded suspension it will have alot less body roll? Thanks
 

Ponyracer

Adventurer
Pre running and rally cars have VASTLY different suspension characteristics. I would look into getting a beater truck say a late '70's chevy 1/2 ton for drywall and get a second vehicle for rally or pre running. You will not be able to set up a prerunner to haul drywall, pre run, and rally on the street, just not going to happen.

If you MUST have a do all vehicle, look into a ford f150 ext cab 2wd. ex cab so you have room for the roll cage, 2wd TTB front end, prob the cheapest pre runner friendly designed suspension. The rear is where the problem will be, deavers or coilovers and a bed cage is not going to work so well with 25 sheets of drywall or a bunch of tools.

Rally cars, big swaybars, little travel, good prerunners no swaybars and HUGE travel. Just two different worlds. You can build a middle of the road vehicle, but it will suck at each end of the spectrum.
 

Schattenjager

Expedition Leader
No comparison. Don't try to make a consumer truck into a race vehicle. You will be disappointed. Get a cheapie truck for work and a second, purpose built something for fun. Trust me...
 

country2757

New member
Ok I get what your saying. I was just thinking about a midsize truck such as a Tacoma or Frontier and putting Some deaver long travel leafs and some resi shocks in the rear with no bedcage and in the front do UCA and some Resi coilovers. I figured that wouldn't have to much lift maybe 2 or 3 inches so I could still use it for work and was wondering how it would do at 50 MPH in the desert and small jumps? Thanks for the info I'm still learning about this stuff.
 

98dango

Expedition Leader
I used a 2wd s10 for 2 years yes it worked yes i miss it but to make it work for work and as a toy it ont work. It will suck at one or the other. Even a small amount of load will drop your rear springs and beat them to hell. Just run 2 rigs as suguested. If you just drove to and from the job it would be ok but not to haul tool or meterails.
 

Madmaxwell87

Observer
Ok I get what your saying. I was just thinking about a midsize truck such as a Tacoma or Frontier and putting Some deaver long travel leafs and some resi shocks in the rear with no bedcage and in the front do UCA and some Resi coilovers. I figured that wouldn't have to much lift maybe 2 or 3 inches so I could still use it for work and was wondering how it would do at 50 MPH in the desert and small jumps? Thanks for the info I'm still learning about this stuff.

That will do fine at 50 in the desert but to get control in that scenario you will have to use lighter valved shocks and possibly springs to absorb the bumps which won't help on curves on pavement. Deavers are great for the desert but they will limit/lower your bed load capacity which you need to fill with tools. I'd stick with a normal lift spring or small block(3" and under) and longer shackles in the rear to get some travel out of them. For the front you can use a coil over but they're expensive and would require alot of tuning to work well on the street and in the dirt. A normal lift coil/spindle/UCA system with a nice set of shocks valved properly will work well in all the aspects you want. Just don't try to pull a truck in too many directions as it will end up being expensive and not able to do much well.
 

rxinhed

Dirt Guy
A jumping truck will not likely carry a load of drywall. Fix up a truck, get a trailer for the load.
 

country2757

New member
Ok I will probably get an older truck for work and another for play but still wondering if I add some leafs and maybe a shackle flip and resi shocks in rear and coilover, shock damper, and UCA in the front to make about 2 or 3 inches of lift so not too high how will the new suspension take the body roll on corners in the city at higher speeds?
 
D

Deleted member 13060

Guest
Ok I will probably get an older truck for work and another for play but still wondering if I add some leafs and maybe a shackle flip and resi shocks in rear and coilover, shock damper, and UCA in the front to make about 2 or 3 inches of lift so not too high how will the new suspension take the body roll on corners in the city at higher speeds?

Poorly.....
 

bob91yj

Resident **************
Jumping anything with a factory frame is a sure way to destroy a vehicle quickly. Do a Google search for Ford Raptors with bent frames, they are about the closest thing you'll come to for a factory pre-runner.
 

GJMcManus

Smarcastic Sparky
Jumping anything with a factory frame is a sure way to destroy a vehicle quickly. Do a Google search for Ford Raptors with bent frames, they are about the closest thing you'll come to for a factory pre-runner.

Only when you are an idiot and try and drive a 50k factory truck like a 700k trophy truck!

There were 50 raptors running hard at Texana Ranch (with common sense) and NONE bent their frames! Only one left on a trailer, it was a modified raptor with long travel suspension, and caged (one of the vendors race trucks, lol)

http://www.race-dezert.com/home/texas-raptor-run-30343.html

The whole bent frame thing is driver error/over confidence/stupidity!


-Greg
 

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