We are the towing company; if you check out our website www.baileystowinginc.com. The last page is about our towing company that was just sold.
Does anybody really know the AxeAngel who posted above; says he is a expedition leader but he is not posted as one on this site......
Last edited by bfdiesel; 05-09-2012 at 07:55 PM.
1993 F350 Crew Cab Long Bed 7.3 IDI 5 speed 4x4. Currently stock except for the 255/85R16's.
1983 GMC 6.2L Suburban with sm465/np205 undergoing construtive surgery to include 1 ton axles, crossover steering, 52" front springs, and rear shackle flip. Has 285/70r17 STT's on H2 rims.
Both running biodiesel.
2007 Subaru Outback 2.5i with 5-speed manual.
1965 2WD F100 7.5L with C6.
1967 mustang coupe project on hold waiting for a garage or shop.
1979 CX500 putt arounder.
There are so many different snatch blocks out there that I can't just say, yes or no. Our sheave is 4 inches and machined; most sheaves you find will be cast. Our sheave/block can handle up to 7/16 cable and/or synthetic rope.
A suggestions we always tell customers when comparing snatch blocks is to look at the quality and check out the design (testing) ratio. Because we are using a design ratio of 4:1 we can only rate at 9,000 pounds. But your breaking strength is 41,000 lb. You can use different design ratio's to make that rating a larger number. There is no standard for what ratio you use regarding a snatch block. We used the 4:1 ratio because it is the industry standard (commerical) for chains, etc.
Thanks for your feedback!
If you are ever in the market for another block; give us a try! We won't let you down. And if we do (we won't) we will make it right! We are old school when it comes to customer satisfaction. I've been working long to keep Bailey's a positive name.
Have you ever tried to remove a circlip in the freezing cold with wet hands and mud up to your waist; especially when the synthetic line is jammed in the sheeve?
Try it and then change the circlip to an R clip
Liking the oil impregnated bronze bush though
Done a bit...
Understand your thoughts and appreciate your suggestion.
We designed our snatch block so the side plates fit snug against the sheave eliminating the play between the side plates and sheave. We don't anticipate any dismantle being done to continue its use during a pull. So taking it apart during a recovery I can see your concern. The only dismantle we foresee with our product is just a simple clean if needed; after a recovery.
When synthetic rope gets a little tired it starts to 'fluff'; as the threads are so damn strong it only needs the tiniest gap to 'snag' a thread and then pull in a load more. This happens with ALL snatchblocks even the hi quality machined ones - can't be avoided in Real World Situations. Hence the need to be able to field strip a the block...
Happy to show you but you live in the wrong country (-:
Done a bit...
I'm still trying to figure out how Bailey's towing is allowed to pimp out their products without paying for vendor status? Strange to me. I can understand maybe having a link to your site in your signature, but starting threads about your product when you are not a paying vendor is not cool, IMHO.
'92 Cummins Ram - Super sexy build thread