Best caulk for flippack hinge?

[homemade]

I removed the caulking from around the hinges, where they enter the lid and cap because right from new I could tell water was getting behind the caulking, rust stains on cap. It looked like they did a good job of placing the caulk but it wasn't adhering to the hinge metal, maybe they were oily when they were caulked at the factory. There was some surface rust on the metal in the cap and lid hinge and hinge sleeve which I removed then sprayed with rustoleum zinc coating. I picked up some 3m 4000 marine caulk which I hope will be a good choice for this application. I was wondering what caulking others have used and how well it has stood up?

[TACODOC]

When FRP replaced my hinge they re-did the sealing with clear silicone. Seems to be holding up well but I'm in sunny SoCal so YMMV... Anything by 3M is usually top notch.

[homemade]

Thanks for the input. I probably should have just gone with a good silicone caulk but the marine stuff had good reviews and I thought it couldn't hurt that it is meant to be used below the water line. I don't know what it is made from but it is in a unusual metal sealed tube and it cost $20 for a tube so there might be something different about it. I'll probably caulk it up later today after work.

[JasonRedwood]

Let me know how the marine glue works for you. What about using gorilla glue silicone? Water and solvent resistant as well as gap filling...

[homemade]

Let me know how the marine glue works for you. What about using gorilla glue silicone? Water and solvent resistant as well as gap filling...

The 3m 4000 went on fine, pretty much like any other caulk I have used. As usual for me the longer I fiddled with it the messier I made it. Time will tell if it adheres well and lasts.

I hadn't looked into the gorilla glue silicone, I bet there are several products out there that would work well. Surface preparation is pobably more important than the specific product used - I think there may have been oil residue on the hinges that kept the factory caulk from sticking.

[TACODOC]

UV degradation is one of my biggest concerns - those joints are in full sunlight. Whatever silicone is used must be rated for outdoors vice indoor bathroom type... if there's any real difference in composition I don't know.

[homemade]

The 3m 4000 is UV resistant, permanent but removable. It cured really nice, good adhesion to the hinge metal and fiberglass, surface not tacky or sticky like some silicone caulks feel. It dried firm but not hard. I would use it again.

[4xdog]

I am *not* a fan of silicones. They contaminate surfaces (especially silicone lubricants). They really don't adhere that well -- I'll bet the old silicone came off pretty easily. They don't go down especially smoothly and look grimy after some time. Just a personal bias as a chemist with a preference for carbon-based polymers!

3M makes great products. If they put their name on it, it'll almost certainly do the job intended. For them to use the adjective "marine" with a caulk indicates pretty high performance. I'd go with that product in a second over a silicone.

...Unless it's a silicone, too! Check the MSDS and the product data sheet. Acrylics are good, with superb UV resistance. Butyl synthetic rubbers are OK, but I'd have some concern about UV.

Don

[Verkstad]

I dont care for silicones based on the same overvations as above.
I use urethane almost exclusively, Sonneborn 250 is my favorite as it always available free via partial tubes or surplus from my Glazier buddy.
Anyway, another I used was A 3M product intended for windshield installation. Excellent stuff if you need the color black.
It glued patches over rustpinholes on a low pressurised Diesel tank. 8 years now no problems.