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Thread: Remount camper

  1. #31
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    May 2011
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    Phoenix az
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    101
    Thanks Doug for the time and expertise. I've read and saved the Fuso frame Builder's document even though it's not my generation Fuso.
    Thanks also to Brian for pointing out that the upper plates are not welded to the truck frame but rather to the camper frame.
    The Builder's doc allows hard wood or non welded steel "spacers" in the c channel at the u bolt area to prevent bending of the c channel.
    This is my immediate plan:
    1. Tomorrow I'll have the welded plates removed, smooth the steel and put in spacers at these same areas.
    2. Investigate the die spring mount used by All Terrain Warriors and EarthCruiser. This type mount is public domain, where to place the mount is proprietary- Fuso engineering might be helpful and Unicell, the camper box builder might be helpful.
    3. Since we're overweight and unfortunately going to stay that way, look into additional leaf springs for my weight. (We can decrease our weight but not enough to get under 12000 lbs).

  2. #32
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    May 2011
    Location
    Phoenix az
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    Would J B Weld cause the same prohibited structural problems as welding? I used it as a temporary fix before finding a welder, but it held the rear plate spacers without problem.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Canberra Australia
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    (We can decrease our weight but not enough to get under 12000 lbs)
    You just have to move to Australia, where the GVM is 6 Tonne (13,200 lbs).
    My attempt to build something to go somewhere else...
    Canter4x4.com

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Planet Earth
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    RE: placement of mounts, etc.

    The highest stress point for the frame on your truck is just behind the cab (that's not just yours, it's true of all normal straight trucks & semi tractors). That means it's best to pay particular attention to the forward-most mounts and know that your frame is under the most stress at that point.

    For that reason, it's best to not rigidly mount the load just behind the cab, like we did, but in any and all payload suspension designs, to let the load move / pivot there (we are rigidly mounted there due to the garage to camper interface clearance, we couldn't have the camper banging on the garage, and besides, in the three weeks I had to design ours I was dramatically under-researched, under-informed and unprepared, including knowing where the highest-stress point was on the frame).

    In your case, if you use five Ozzie mounts per frame rail, you should be more than OK. You may also find that at least one of the Ozzie manufacturers can be very helpful in your challenge.

    It is critical to distribute the payload weight along the longitudinal (length) of your frame.



    RE: weight - springs


    Custom spring packs are a very good idea.

    Completely fill the truck with fluids and load it for camping.

    Go to a flat scale and weight the entire truck, the front and rear axles and each corner. (For a flat scale, try a moving and storage company)

    Go to a custom spring shop and have spring packs made up to match each corner's weight.

    It is *much* better to use lots of thin spring leaves rather than a few thick ones. It makes the ride much more compliant and much less harsh.

    We used Deaver Spring in Santa Ana, CA and were very happy with their quality and customer service http://www.deaverspring.com/

    You don't need to take your truck there. Send them the weights and they can ship to you. You can have a local shop swap the spring packs. You will need an alignment after this job.



    RE: weight - rating

    Our FG generation's chassis is rated to a gross combined weight rating (GCWR) of 17,045 lbs / 7,731 kilos. I don't know what your generation's GCWR is, but that is an important number for you. It's the maximum combined weight of your chassis and any towed load. That basically tells you what the truck's brakes are rated to stop.

    Our FG generation's front axle is rated to 5,730 lbs / 2,599 kilos.

    Our FG generation's rear axle is rated to 9,480 lbs / 4,300 kilos.

    Our FG generation's total GVWR is 14,050 lbs / 6,373 kilos.

    Again, those are important numbers for you to discover for your generation truck.

    I think you'll find that the FG components, other than possibly the frame, can easily handle your weight.

    Since your truck's frame is relatively easy to access and work on, if you are concerned about the frame, then I suggest you sleeve it as illustrated in the body builder's drawings. Note that the step-up requires specific reinforcement. Be sure to do the entire frame, not just where you are attaching the mounts or load. If you only sleeve a portion of the frame you just move the stress points to the next weakest portion of the frame. ( I think you know how I learned this! )

    A truck frame shop can do this work for you.
    Last edited by dhackney; 05-22-2012 at 07:28 PM.
    -------------------------------------------

    web: http://www.hackneystravel.com/
    blog: http://www.autopsis.com/
    twitter: http://twitter.com/dhackney

  5. #35
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Phoenix az
    Posts
    101
    Just had the welded on spacer plates removed from the Fuso frame between the wheels and the metal smoothed out. The u bolts torqued to 75ftlbs. Got a note from Unicell saying they have switched from flat to L angle cross plates on the u bolts and confirmed the torque pressure.
    Thanks Doug, for info on Lehel's rig, weights, springs, stress points, frame strengthening and more.
    Thanks Owen for showing us your build up- quite impressive.
    I'll think about these things after a beer!

  6. #36
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    Apr 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by garybo View Post
    Would J B Weld cause the same prohibited structural problems as welding? I used it as a temporary fix before finding a welder, but it held the rear plate spacers without problem.
    No. The problem with welding is the heat. Your frame is a tempered steel frame. The tempering process adds strength, but creates areas where you cannot introduce heat again without weakening the steel.
    -------------------------------------------

    web: http://www.hackneystravel.com/
    blog: http://www.autopsis.com/
    twitter: http://twitter.com/dhackney

  7. #37
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Phoenix az
    Posts
    101
    Since All Terrain Warriors, EarthCruiser and apparently many heavier trucks use the spring/bolt mounts on their rigs, can someone from AU say what company sells them? I'm not going to make them as Owen at Canter 4x4 above did.

  8. #38
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    May 2011
    Location
    Phoenix az
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    Doug- I'm confused about reinforcing the frame with a "sleeve" that is defined as going inside the channel and the builder's guide recommendation to place an L angle reinforcement outside and under the frame. Which to choose?

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Canberra Australia
    Posts
    404

    Default VSB6

    As I mentioned in the email I sent you Gary, there is not really a "standard" mount, as subframes and chassis differ greatly.
    An example of the spring mount suggested for use here in Australia, can be seen in the Vehicle Standards Bulletin No.6 , on page 14 of Section J.

    Any reputable general engineering workshop should be able to manufacture custom made mounts similar to these for your setup.
    My attempt to build something to go somewhere else...
    Canter4x4.com

  10. #40
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Phoenix az
    Posts
    101
    John, look at this site, p.8
    http://www.iveco.com.au/dealer.info/...ET/A_PS_ET.pdf
    this resembles the mount I asked to find. Of course it doesn't have any specific info, but others can comment on it.

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