Helton Shower Install issues....maybe?

Zubicon

Adventurer
Purchased the Helton Hotwater Kitit's suppose to have an output temp of approx 160 degrees that can be regualted down by use of the Tempature regulator valve. I get cool temps, to brief moments (5 seconds or less) of very hot temps, then to cooler than cool. So either I have something hooked up wrong, it isn't as hot (excuse the pun) as it is cracked up to be, or I have issues with my rig.

The vehicle: 05 Rubcion, cooling system operates at 210 degrees, it is a continual circulating system. Translation: As the heater supply line pumps the coolant from the WP to the heater core it continually circulates through and out of the core, unlike some other makes.

The install: Mounted the heat exchanger vertically. Mounted the water lines from the exchanger to the "bumper mount" in a hose length of only 30" each. I used fuel line if that matters. Installed the "T" in the main heater supply line, ran that to the temperature control valve then to the "hot" fitting identified with the red band around it on the heat exchanger. It would be the fitting that is closest to center. Installed the "T" on the main heater return line and ran that to the cold fitting on the heat exchanger identified with the blue band around it which is the fitting closest to the outside peremeter. So did I scre something up?

Other than that I have a decent leak where the brass fittings screw into the temperature control valve which I presume can be fixed with some water sealer tape. The pump works great, maybe to great, we emptied a 5 gal container in no ti,e testing it out which in my best estimate wasn't near enough time to wet down, turn off, soap up, turn on and rinse off.

Any help would be appreciated, I've heard nothing but good about these things. Thanks
 
There some other write up's in the General Vehicles modification thread but it sounds like you've almost got it figured out.
First off any leaks in the system will seriously affect the performance. Second the 160* temp rating is for a flow rate of .5gpm any faster than that it won't be as hot. So to combat the faster flow rate it may be necessary to run the RPMs higher. So first fix any leaks, then try to find the lowest flow shower head possible. Also the fuel line works better than anything else I'd tried on my setup. I think once you try this stuff you'll find a sweet spot for everything. At 1200 RPMs the one on my Discovery will turn 30* water into 110* water ;) thats with a 1 gpm head and a 65psi 3.5 gpm pump. Good luck
 
I meant to say this first but forgot. Make sure the lines you tapped into are for the heater, they circulate regardless of the thermostat in any engine setup. Once you tap into those there shouldnt be any fluctuation as in warm for a few seconds. If you can't easily tell which one is coming off the block, the best way to determine the flow is once the engine is warmed up turn on the heater and see which one gets hot faster. They aren't necessary, but if you can find the y shape tees they help stuff flow even better but I haven't been able to.
 

timber

Adventurer
I tried the temp regulator deal and found the same thing. I have a Tacoma that also has a constant circulating system and after dealing with temp fluctuations at the shower head I just made it simple. I draw out of a 5 gallon can and open the shower head stick it in the can and recirculate for 2 or 3 Min. then shut off the engine when its at shower temp. With 5 gallons you have enough for 3 decent showers or 2 really good ones with no fluctuation at the shower head no matter how much you turn it off and on. That 5 gallon can will stay at shower temp for nearly an hour unless its freezing outside. Works great for me and got rid of a bunch of plumbing>
 

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