How to mount rack on shell/topper - Track or Pad mounts

[YotaPilot]

I have been researching a lot of different racks to put on top of my shell on my 2001 Tacoma DC. I think I have pretty much decided to go with Rhino Rack due to price and accessories they have. What I am having trouble deciding is how to mount the racks on my shell.

I have ruled out gutter mounts, and rhino rack doesn't make them anyway.

I am trying to decide between track mounts or pad mounts.

The advantage I seen with track mount is the flexibility is being able to move the rack to facilitate different size loads. I can also add another crossbar daily easily if I needed to. The disadvantage I see is having to put more holes in the shell to mount the actual track system. I am not sure how much drilling is required though.

Does anyone have experience with either type of system? What do you see as the pros and cons to each.

Track system - Rhino Rack Kit # Y01-120 $319


Pad Mount System - Rhino Rack Kit # Y04-250 $295

 

[Clutch]

I have owned both....currently have a track mount. I like it better since it is more versatile since I carry a variety of gear...anything from mountain bikes, kayaks, to camera rigging.

Plus you can add more cross bars if needed.

 

[wilson]

i second the track.

 

[Yellowkayak]

The track for sure. One other thing to think about....if your cross bars make noice going down the road with nothing on them, you can easily remove them from the track set up!

JJ

 

[YotaPilot]

The track for sure. One other thing to think about....if your cross bars make noice going down the road with nothing on them, you can easily remove them from the track set up!

JJ

Very good point. I never thought of that. How easy are they to remove from the track? How long would it take?

 

[DaveInDenver]

The only reason I could imagine pads would be better is if your load has significant lifting, like a box or boats or something, and track can't handle it. Not even sure if that's an issue, just thinking out loud. I still use Yakima Top Loaders for 1A towers on my WilderNest because the shell isn't flat but has a crown so track won't work, otherwise being able to set the distance and add cross bars is nice.

 

[ethernectar]

I'm going to go with a track when I do a rack on my utility cap. I want to spread the weight out across all the sheet metal in stead of a few places.

 

[Clutch]

The only reason I could imagine pads would be better is if your load has significant lifting, like a box or boats or something, and track can't handle it. Not even sure if that's an issue, just thinking out loud. I still use Yakima Top Loaders for 1A towers on my WilderNest because the shell isn't flat but has a crown so track won't work, otherwise being able to set the distance and add cross bars is nice.

Never had a problem with mine...oh there are...I dunno, 6-8 bolts holding the track down to the topper...the extrusion track seems to be holding up fine, even with a lake kayak. I might be purchasing an Autohome...want 4 cross bars for one of those.

I have a SnugTop now, BTW, and sold the Wildernest...couldn't run a hitch mounted moto rack with the angled back window.

 

[YotaPilot]

So I've decided that tracks are the best option for me. For those who have them, how difficult are they to install? Any tips on installation on a SnugTop Shell?

 

[Clutch]

So I've decided that tracks are the best option for me. For those who have them, how difficult are they to install? Any tips on installation on a SnugTop Shell?

Measure twice (three times in my case) drill once...I like to put a dab of silicon in the drill holes too.

I like to use a tailor's tape measure, since it bends nicely over the curvature of the topper.

 

[Drainbung]

You can't go wrong with Yakima

The racktracks are great, I've had them on several vehicles with no complaints. You'll need to buy the tracks, landing pads, towers and bars. Not cheap but it works as advertised. There should be several "How-To" threads here, Tacoma World and probably You-Tube. Basically you'll want to line up the tracks with the ditch moulding on the cab of the truck. Sorry, I know that's vague but check out the links and it will make sense. Hope this helps.

 

[CCH]

Measure twice (three times in my case) drill once...I like to put a dab of silicon in the drill holes too.

I like to use a tailor's tape measure, since it bends nicely over the curvature of the topper.

Maybe measure four times. I had tracks installed on my last topper and they either couldn't use a tape measure or simply eyeballed it. As I didn't move the bars around much, I didn't notice it for some time. Sucks to have to loosen up the entire tower just to slide it.

 

[Mrknowitall]

Ok, so this is a topper on a 1st gen DC. That makes the topper maybe 55" long on top. The feet of either are about 4-5" wide, so that leaves you with a 50" spread, at best. If your cap has windows, putting extra bars in between wont help much with load capacity. Think about what you would need the bars closer together for. I had a Yakima landing pad setup on my Tundra for 6 years. Never felt I needed to move anything. The bars go on and off in literally seconds. You can, of course mount the pads on tracks, too. In all, I can't reccomend the control towers enough. Either way, you'll need to dill about four holes per side- either about 1 per each 12 inches of track

 

[Mrknowitall]

Love my Yakima control towers. On your DC the longest spread will be about 50". Structurally, adding more bars above the side windows wont ad any load capacity. You'll need about 4 holes per side either way. if the inside of your topper isnt carpeted, I can highly reccomend epoxying t-nuts from the inside. For more bar spread, like for kayaks, you can ad a Q-tower bar up front.

 

[robert]

Check your shell to see if it has a honeycomb section in the middle- many do and you don't want to drill through that; drill outside of the thicker honeycomb area. I used Yakima tracks on mine and have been very happy with them so far (except for the anodizing wearing off). They recommend using a small amount if silicon and not a big blob; my brother worked at a bike shop and installed them and said they didn't have any issues with them installed that way so that's what I did (instead of a big blob). Mine's been on for around six years now with no issues and I carry multiple kayaks (including a couple of heavy sea kayaks) as well as a variety of other stuff.

Definitely measure several times before you drill. Tape your area to drill and drill a pilot hole then step up to a larger bit in order to avoid chipping the fiberglass. If you have carpet in the interior of the shell use a drill bit stop (or just wrap tape around the bit) so it only goes through the shell- if it gets into the carpet it'll snag it and start pulling it. A second set of hands will be a big help.

The Yakimas are easy to take on and off- unlock the bases, flip the plate open and lift the rack assembly off. Handy for those longer trips where you don't need to carry anything and want the best mpg possible.