ARB fridge and a suspected weak Yellowtop battery - advice wanted

[Rev]

Hi folks.

Here is a question for the ARB fridge experts. I just want to confirm my suspicions.

After 3.5 years my yellowtop battery isn’t holding much of a charge. It starts the truck but it isn’t what it once was and it won’t run my ARB fridge for long. A tech 6 months ago said it wasn’t holding the charge that it should.

Lately, even on the low protection setting, my ARB fridge won’t stay on for much longer after the truck shuts off. It runs while the truck is on. I just want to confirm that a new battery would likely fix this issue, or may I have a problem with the fridge?

Also, do I need to get another deep cycle battery, or can a regular decent battery do (to save money)?
I use the truck every day when camping. I don’t usually let it sit more than 10-14 hours without use and this usually at night when cooler. My fridge worked perfectly 3 years ago when I got it.

Thanks for any help.

 

[spikemd]

Definitely sounds like your battery is the issue, not your fridge. The low-voltage cut-off is actually pretty high in my opinion. I don't think you have an issue with the fridge since it is working correctly when the alternator is running. As far as deep cycle vs regular battery, there are quite a few threads on the subject. The optima batteries batteries get mixed reviews, in my limited experience. I would buy an Odyssey if I had the money. Since I was on budget, I bought a mixed deep-cycle/starting battery from Costco for like $80. Much cheaper than the Odyssey at $250 and it has worked great. I still think you should use a deep cycle when running a fridge. Once a regular battery gets run down, the life dwindles quickly.

Surprised the optima only lasted 3.5 years. Can you get some credit for it?

 

[Rev]

Thanks for the insight. I assumed that the low protection level was bacially if the battery was all but dead. But given how my engine cranks just fine, I think you are right, it is very conservative.

I bought it at costco and I'm not sure what their policy is. I may ask them. Since my battery has a charge still, it may not be up fro exchange. Even if I get a cheap battery to get me through the summer I will be ok. BUt if I can find a good battery for not too much, all the better.

 

[Utah KJ]

I'm surprised an Optima lasted for 3.5 years. Color yourself lucky.

 

[HillbillyfromAL]

Diehard Platinum check them out. If I remember correctly they are just a rebranded Odyssey. They aren't necessarily cheap but the battery really isn't a place to skimp on. Especially if your trying to keep stuff cold when the trucks not running. Since its starting just fine you could also get a charger for it. Just make sure it's powerful enough to not only run the fridge but have some left over to charge the battery. I put a 10 amp marine battery maintainer on my Discovery, but even in 80-90 degree days I was still getting 3-4 days of the ARB staying on with just the battery. That may be a cheaper option for you. Good luck

 

[overlander]

I have dual yellow tops with about 4 years on them, and this point I can't get more than 12 hours overnight out of my accessory battery. I have to leave both batteries connected by my controller to get a full day before the ARB cuts off. I'm adding solar, and planning on replacing accessory first with sears diehard plat.

It's not you, it's optima...

 

[4x4junkie]

Very quick way to confirm you have a battery issue is to put a voltmeter on the battery.
After a drive (but before shutting the engine off) check that the battery has between 14.1-14.5V on it coming from your alternator (indicating it is receiving a full charge).

After you shut the engine off, then check to see if it soon starts dropping below 12.1 volts or so with the fridge running. If it does, then no doubt the battery isn't putting out what it should be (a good, fully charged battery will maintain 12.4-12.6V for many hours with a fridge running off it).

Definitely stay with a deep-cycle type battery.
I've been using Delco Voyager brand batteries in a dual configuration since the late '80s. Unlike other wet batteries I've tried, they've never spewed or leaked any acid or had terminal corrosion issues making them a great choice for offroad where they're shaken & tossed around a lot. They are about half the price of an Optima these days, have 1½× their capacity, and have never given me less than 8 years of good service (9-10 years being about typical). That makes them a pretty good value, I think.

 

[lupinsea]

Optimas used to be great batteries but their quality has dropped like a rock in the last few years.

X2 on the Sears Die Hard Platinums. Excellent batteries.

 

[RHINO]

thought optima went through a quality problem a few years back thay have been dealt with and optima is still a good battery. so, its really not optima either, it happens to all batteries, even platinum. its a simple matter of the battery being drawn down with accesories (fridge ect.) and not being recharged properly. your vehicles alternator is not a proper charger just a topper off'er. i think with more and more folks running fridges we will see more and more threads like this. i suggest a quality battery charger and use it monthly running a fridge. my last optima went 9yrs and my two current ones are pushing 5 and 7 yrs respectively.

 

[Rev]

Ok... Bought a new deep cycle battery. Installed it. Fridge ran for less than thirty minutes and shut off. It was on medium. Tested the old battery at 12.6

Threw it on a charger and it read charged in three minutes.

So... Problem with the fridge??

 

[4x4junkie]

Maybe... Though I would still check your wiring first before concluding it's the fridge (too much voltage drop making the fridge *think* the battery is weak).

What gauge is your wiring and how far from the battery is your fridge?

 

[HillbillyfromAL]

On the Fridge the voltage cut offs are
10.1 Low
11.4 MED
11.8 HIGH
I'll 2nd the checking your voltage drop. You may just need to rewire it with thicker finer wire. Here's a link to ARB's instructions on it.

http://arbusa.wordpress.com/2011/02/10/fridge-voltage-concerns/

If your stuff is factory wiring I'd be it's the problem. Mine is wired up with 12GA low resistance wire like people use for amps/speakers.

 

[overlander]

Really good point about checking voltage drop that I had mistakenly forgotten to consider in mine.

 

[Rev]

It is 2AWG run to a fuse block in the trunk, then six inches of 12AWG. The fridge used to run off the stock aux plug in the trunk all day.

Thanks for the link.

 

[4x4junkie]

It is 2AWG run to a fuse block in the trunk, then six inches of 12AWG.

You'd think for sure that would be enough to work...

Can you check the voltage right where it actually goes into the fridge? (maybe you got a poor ground giving some resistance?)
Otherwise try hooking it straight to a good battery out of the vehicle. If that doesn't work, I would then say it's time to contact ARB.