biggoolies
Adventurer
I have a number of boats and if I would have to part with them all except one, I would keep my canoe. 
School me on buying a used canoe
- Thread starter wesel123
- Start date
Little late, better than never.
Good info above.....but, IMO
You need to get on some boating/canoe sites and do some research. Pay attention to canoe shapes and how they adapt to different waters and intended use.
Need to better define your use. Saying river with a slow current or lake is sorta broad. I'd guess you're saying less than or class I waters. There is still a difference with deep water currents and shallows and what boat would be better in turning in confined areas or turning to avoid obstacles. So consider where you usually go.
So, first tipis to go where you'll usually go and rent from a local, they should have boats compatible for the waters. Rent as many different styles as you can, and sizes. As mentioned most are 15/16', flat bottom designed to carry some weight, 32" o 34" beam, inside width. The only way to know the difference is to paddle different boats.
Aluminum boats, you'll be sitting in a solar reflector, use lots of sun tan lotion on the backs of your legs! Marine aluminum does not last forever either, it breaks down, water doesn't pour in but it will drip or seep. Riveted spots below the water line will leak in time, like at the bow, stern stem, keel or side strakes. I suggest you stay away from old aluminum canoes, say 15 years old and older. If they shine like new and were kept covered you can add a few years to that. There are some twice that old that do fine, some that have hard use can have problems in half that time. They are good around rocks, to a point, they dent instead of getting holed, but you can puncture them as with any small boat. Hard to repair. Heavy, you won't win any races but they usually track well unless they have been damaged.
Kevlar is newer, expensive and lighter, not really your starter boat in your price range.
Fiberglass is a good boat but heavier, a 16' can be around 50 to 70 pounds, heavy is better in the water but hard to transport and portage. Easy to repair. Inspect the keel if there is a pronounced keel (the strip from front to back on the bottom). Glass gets damaged and can leak and deformed will effect how it tracks or stays on course, some sanding and paint can usually cure minor issues.
Don't shy away from "plastic" boats as there are some good ones. RAM-X is a very good plastic material that can match any glass boat and many Kevlar boats as to durability. You won't hole one so much as it gives and bounces off unless you have a driving current pushing you hard into a stability problem (big sharp rock). You can buy these new fairly cheap. Down side, as with Kevlar, you can't patch them without doing some plastic welding (they have a kit).
Where you are, I'd really suggest you look on boating sites, like Kayak & Canoe, Wooden Boats, Boat Builders, Messing About, as there are many really nice wood canoes built by guys who know what they are doing, many are sold for about the cost of materials, 3-400 bucks. Works of art go for more but you can get a good basic wood canoe for the money. They usually heavily glass joints and the keel and these can last for your grandkids. Ask them how many boats they have made before, if it's a dozen or more you probably have a good boat.
Seats should hang below the gunnels or the top of the sides, the higher they are the less stable you'll be. The rec boats with high molded seats and cup holders look nice and fine sitting on a pond, but get hit aside by a small wake and you and your family will go swimming. Cane and web seats are most comfortable. You can always get a cushion, but putting one on high seats just puts you higher and you can slide to one side, but comfy. You'll find yourself kneeling on the sole or floor or sitting there if you're really going to paddle, not sitting up high in plastic seats. Get some knee pads if you're out long.
Check the thwarts, cross beams at the gunnels, this aids in portages but it's also part of the boat holding the sides in place. Cheaper boats may not have them as they rely on higher placed seats to hold the form of boat.
Check the bow eye where you tie your rope, make sure it's secure. Many car toppers tie off from the bow handle or eye and they drive 70mph, they were never meant to anchor the Hindenburg.
It's also not just the cost of the boat. You can get old paddles in the deal, they should hit you at mid chest height when you stand for a straight paddle. You'll need at least foam blocks to car top, use those and you'll save the gunnels from a car rack. If you have a truck you can get an extension off your hitch to carry a canoe. You must get flotation to carry inside, a good inflatable kayak or canoe bag that stuffs in the bow is good but tie it to the boat. Life jackets, right size for each person. Some states require kids to wear them at all times regardless of swimming ability.
You can get some ski rope, about 10' for a 16' canoe is sufficient, it floats but any good cord will due. I like yellow para-cord, it's easy to see. When you go swimming you'll be looking for it. Might as well get a bag of bungee cords, if you don't want to lose something tie it inside. As mentioned, knee pads will be a nice thing after an hour or so. Not a lot of money to get started, but there is always the little things if you're on a tight budget and want to get in the water that day. Check on boat registration requirements too, states have different rules, they love sales tax.
Fair winds!
Good info above.....but, IMO
You need to get on some boating/canoe sites and do some research. Pay attention to canoe shapes and how they adapt to different waters and intended use.
Need to better define your use. Saying river with a slow current or lake is sorta broad. I'd guess you're saying less than or class I waters. There is still a difference with deep water currents and shallows and what boat would be better in turning in confined areas or turning to avoid obstacles. So consider where you usually go.
So, first tipis to go where you'll usually go and rent from a local, they should have boats compatible for the waters. Rent as many different styles as you can, and sizes. As mentioned most are 15/16', flat bottom designed to carry some weight, 32" o 34" beam, inside width. The only way to know the difference is to paddle different boats.
Aluminum boats, you'll be sitting in a solar reflector, use lots of sun tan lotion on the backs of your legs! Marine aluminum does not last forever either, it breaks down, water doesn't pour in but it will drip or seep. Riveted spots below the water line will leak in time, like at the bow, stern stem, keel or side strakes. I suggest you stay away from old aluminum canoes, say 15 years old and older. If they shine like new and were kept covered you can add a few years to that. There are some twice that old that do fine, some that have hard use can have problems in half that time. They are good around rocks, to a point, they dent instead of getting holed, but you can puncture them as with any small boat. Hard to repair. Heavy, you won't win any races but they usually track well unless they have been damaged.
Kevlar is newer, expensive and lighter, not really your starter boat in your price range.
Fiberglass is a good boat but heavier, a 16' can be around 50 to 70 pounds, heavy is better in the water but hard to transport and portage. Easy to repair. Inspect the keel if there is a pronounced keel (the strip from front to back on the bottom). Glass gets damaged and can leak and deformed will effect how it tracks or stays on course, some sanding and paint can usually cure minor issues.
Don't shy away from "plastic" boats as there are some good ones. RAM-X is a very good plastic material that can match any glass boat and many Kevlar boats as to durability. You won't hole one so much as it gives and bounces off unless you have a driving current pushing you hard into a stability problem (big sharp rock). You can buy these new fairly cheap. Down side, as with Kevlar, you can't patch them without doing some plastic welding (they have a kit).
Where you are, I'd really suggest you look on boating sites, like Kayak & Canoe, Wooden Boats, Boat Builders, Messing About, as there are many really nice wood canoes built by guys who know what they are doing, many are sold for about the cost of materials, 3-400 bucks. Works of art go for more but you can get a good basic wood canoe for the money. They usually heavily glass joints and the keel and these can last for your grandkids. Ask them how many boats they have made before, if it's a dozen or more you probably have a good boat.
Seats should hang below the gunnels or the top of the sides, the higher they are the less stable you'll be. The rec boats with high molded seats and cup holders look nice and fine sitting on a pond, but get hit aside by a small wake and you and your family will go swimming. Cane and web seats are most comfortable. You can always get a cushion, but putting one on high seats just puts you higher and you can slide to one side, but comfy. You'll find yourself kneeling on the sole or floor or sitting there if you're really going to paddle, not sitting up high in plastic seats. Get some knee pads if you're out long.
Check the thwarts, cross beams at the gunnels, this aids in portages but it's also part of the boat holding the sides in place. Cheaper boats may not have them as they rely on higher placed seats to hold the form of boat.
Check the bow eye where you tie your rope, make sure it's secure. Many car toppers tie off from the bow handle or eye and they drive 70mph, they were never meant to anchor the Hindenburg.
It's also not just the cost of the boat. You can get old paddles in the deal, they should hit you at mid chest height when you stand for a straight paddle. You'll need at least foam blocks to car top, use those and you'll save the gunnels from a car rack. If you have a truck you can get an extension off your hitch to carry a canoe. You must get flotation to carry inside, a good inflatable kayak or canoe bag that stuffs in the bow is good but tie it to the boat. Life jackets, right size for each person. Some states require kids to wear them at all times regardless of swimming ability.
You can get some ski rope, about 10' for a 16' canoe is sufficient, it floats but any good cord will due. I like yellow para-cord, it's easy to see. When you go swimming you'll be looking for it. Might as well get a bag of bungee cords, if you don't want to lose something tie it inside. As mentioned, knee pads will be a nice thing after an hour or so. Not a lot of money to get started, but there is always the little things if you're on a tight budget and want to get in the water that day. Check on boat registration requirements too, states have different rules, they love sales tax.
Fair winds!
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