Northern Arizona trip: June 8-10

[Rocket-scientist]

I took 10 days of leave to spend some time exploring the Arizona strip and the high country. I used to live in Prescott before joining the Corps so it was not exactly terra incognita to me, but it had been 15 years since my last real trip. I had intended to leave from San Clemente on the 8th (Saturday) but didn't leave until the 10th due to some equipment issues. I had intended to build my own bed rack to mount my RTT, but the project had grown out of control and I wound up just purchasing an All Pro Off Road APEX rack. That was minor compared to my navigation issues which caused way more problems. I had intended to use my IPad for primary off road navigation with printed out USGS quads for backup. Also, I have my Pioneer AVIC head unit for back up on the roads and my Garmin ETrex for hiking use. Someone had hacked my Itunes account which I suspended, so that made me unable to download ANY! maping apps to my Ipad. To make it worse, the USGS download site was down due to high volume! The lesson is not to wait until the last minute to take care of software...

I finally decided to wing it (stay out of the back country and stick to know roads). We (my border collie Jaxx and I) departed Monday morning. Our first stop, the south Rim of the Grand Canyon. We stopped to check out the area south of Seligman on route 40. It was nice to be back in Northern AZ!



I had made reservations at the Ten-X campground at the national forrest, about 4 miles south of the park entrance. The idea behind staying at the camp ground and not just dispersed camping was due to the fire conditions. In the campground fires were not allowed, however charcoal was so I planned meals accordingly. (and in the rest of the area, no fires, no charcoal, no shooting, no smoking outside of a house or car). Little did I know that murphy had come along again...

The campground was very nice. The sites were set up for tents or RV's so the RTT was a little out of the norm but I made it work. I did wind up answering some questions, but it wasn't too bad even though it was a full campground. There is a small (1 mile) trail that circles the campground. Water is available but they won't allow you to fill water tanks on RV's (water jugs were no issue). There are pit toilets in the camp ground and almost all of the sites have full shade. Unfortunately, the day before I left the forest service had raised the fire condition and now charcoal grills were banned. I brought steak, brats, chicken and BBQ sauce. Time to make it work I guess. I realize I took no photos of the campground, but overall it was very pleasant and worth the 10 bucks a night, especially if you have women or young children with you.

The first night was in the mid 30's! Glad I brought a sleeping bag. The dog also helped as he got cold and tried to sleep on me. We had a good breakfast of bacon, eggs and coffee then headed to the south rim. Thank the Park Service for the free annual pass for us military folks! If not its $25 a week for a pass, and worth the money. If you have never been to the Grand Canyon, go!





Pictures really don't do this place justice. You can not take dogs below the rim, but the rim trail can be extended to up to 14 miles. Most of it is paved and full of tourists, most of them not from this country. Beware of the heat as it was in the 80's+ and the sun was brutal. Jaxx gave up after 6 miles and it took us all day to hike 9 miles. We returned to the camp ground that night for a well deserved dinner and rest. The next day we were heading to the north rim, 19 miles by air and 270 by ground.

[teddyearp]

Nice start to your report. But after what's happened in AZ in the last ten years, I would never plan on having any thing that burns other than propane anywhere in the state during the month of June. Their two mega fires were both in June.

[Rocket-scientist]

Wednesday morning we broke camp around 9 and headed for the North Rim. The drive is long but there is gas in the middle and at both ends so it doesn't require any extra fuel. The temperature ran in the high 90's until we actually started to climb up to the rim. Once you enter the tree line at about 6500 feet the scenery becomes breathtaking. I had foolishly put myself on a schedule to I didn't stop to take photos of the entrance road to the park.



The North Rim is very different from the south. The developed area is much smaller and more alpine and not so many people there. I was really surprised to find that gas at the North Rim was still cheaper than in southern California. You can not take dogs to the rim, the only trail authorized is the one that connects the campground with the visitor center. You do get glimpses of the canyon at points, but I didn't mind since we were headed to camp on the rim the next day.



I had planned to camp at Toroweap that evening but I found the Arizona Strip forest service map at the North Rim visitors center so we spent the afternoon exploring the forest roads outside the park. Its nice to be able to pull off and camp!



And there was plenty of room for endless games of fetch.


It was cold again that evening and no campfire again, but the next day would be different.

[TexGX]

Enjoying the trip report. Looking forward to the rest. The truck looks great as well.

TexGX

[Rocket-scientist]

The next day was supposed to be all dirt but I wound up having to travel some paved roads. The destination was Toroweap on the North Rim and the intent was to travel forest service roads to get there. Unfortunately I found a lot of dead ends and while I could have made a cross country connection I decided to do the right thing and stay on established roads. The sun heated up the area fast once I descended out of the tree line so the windows went up and the AC went on (not so adventurous I admit). I stopped for gas in Fredonia (again cheaper than in So Cal) at a friendly store that also sold guns, ammo and beer. Arizona rocks! I hit the dirt again on Hwy 109 (aka Mt Trumball Rd) for 60 miles of badly washboarded road. Do yourself a favor and air down at the start. The road is more scenic desert.




It was still early in the day and very hot so we went into the tree line up to Mt. Trumball. The heat was still in the 90's but at least you could find shade.


We headed back towards the National Park that afternoon. The road was still bad but never required 4WD, although some of the sections did get a bit bouncy. When you reach this sign turn LEFT.

There are 3 camp sites on the right and 6 on the left. The left sites are better and a ledge in the road keeps most people out.



Now there was nothing to do but break out some food and relax!

And enjoy the view! Not bad for a free camp ground.



The ranger came by to say hello later on. Very helpful and courteous and he said that camp fires were fine as long as you have your own wood. Its not a surprise that fires were allowed here as the entire camp ground is on rock. In fact you are told by a sign to stay off the dirt. So that night was a camp fire and some libations!

The next day we were heading for Monument Valley and more spectacular scenery.

[gm13]

Nice report, thanks for posting. Toroweap is amazing, good choice on site #8, our home for a few nights in April.

[teddyearp]

Keep it coming, please.

[Rocket-scientist]

Keep it coming, please.

As you wish!

The next day I got up early due to the heat. The prior evening the rocks gave great shade but we were open to the rising sun. After the usual breakfast of bacon, eggs and grits (does anything smell better when camping than bacon?) we broke camp, checked to make sure we left no trace and headed to the campground entrance to meet up with Jay. He had arrived the night prior but was having issues with the road on his 1200GS so I had arranged to follow him out in the morning for safety.


(sorry to Jay for not getting a real photo of him)

We made it out and aired up. Jay headed back to LA and Jaxx and I hit the road to the North East. It's a long drive to Monument Valley. The entrance fee is only $5 per person and allows you to drive the road through the reservation. Leaving the road requires a native guide but if you want to do a foot trip there are plenty of vendors there. The scenery is incredible (as was the heat) and well worth the fee (although the cost in fuel to get there is a judgement call, it's not exactly on the way anywhere).




The drive takes about an hour (more depending on photo stops). By the end I was watching the incoming desert thunderstorm as much as the scenery.



We hit the road again and departed for Flagstaff. That nights stop was on call, but again the ability to just stop in the national forest and enjoy the solitude was great. We set up camp around 6500 feet and enjoyed another great night without a camp fire...

[SmoothLC]

Bad luck about the s/w, but it looks like you had a great trip! Nice photos too.

[Rocket-scientist]

Thanks for the comments from all!

It's been taking forever to get this write up finished. Too much going on and I can only work on this from my laptop at home.

After a great night camping north of Flagstaff we took off to Prescott and the Mile High Brew Fest. I was following the GPS on roads but jumped off at the earliest I could and slowly moved south. In the interest of cold beer waiting I returned to pavement via 89A and Oak Creek Canyon. Its a beautiful winding drive so keep your eyes on the road. Especially on a Saturday since it was busy. Every camp ground and parking area I passed was full, so I didn't stop to take photos, but I did get a cell phone shot.


I continued on through Sedona (yet another incredible place)


And then pushed on into Prescott. I did pass by a suspiciously familiar red JK unlimited with what appeared to be a habitat on it...
I stopped at Embry Riddle Aeronautical University to use a shower at the gym. It was the first time I had been there since I graduated and the changes were incredible. I had intended to do some shopping at the book store but it was closed for the summer so I had time to kill. I decided to hit some forest road trails out by Thumb Butte (I wanted to hike the trail but the temperature was up and I didn't feel like carrying an overheated dog down the steep trail there).

I got lost. Really lost. I'm not sure how I got onto a trail that wasn't on the map, but I was stuck following a badly rutted trail that was making me nervous. I could go down hill only and had to trust that the trail would either give me a spot to turn around (and I didn't want to drive that trail again uphill) or I would find a connection to a trail or road that was on one of my maps. This photo doesn't do the trail justice as I was constantly worried about flopping due to the heavy ruts and steep angles.


If its not obvious already, I made it out. It wouldn't have been so bad if I hadn't been traveling alone. Luckily there were a lot of micro-brews awaiting in town. Prescott is a great small town (not as small as it used to be) with quite the ecclectic mix of people. Especially when there is alcohol involved.

We refilled ourselves with a cold brew, some boy scout hot dogs, and a good show. And more importantly, a selection on beverages for the last night were in the ARB. We departed Prescott towards I40, moving through some forest service roads that parallel route 89N. Again that evening we camped out on some national forest land without a fire. Unfortunately I realized that my camera battery had died on me since I had forgotten to plug it in that day. And when I did plug it in that night, I forgot to turn on the inverter...

The following morning we awoke to another awesome sunrise. After a hearty breakfast and a long walk (where I saw a jack rabbit the size of Jaxx, I thought it was a fawn at first!) we returned to San Clemente. It was a great trip but it was time to clean gear, do some maintenance, and get back into the daily grind. I shot this cell phone photo on the way back which I think shows how much fun we had.