Expedition Leader
80 series front brake refresh
The Cruiser is in need of love - one front caliper is dragging and the rotors are down to disposal thickness. I replaced the pads when I was in Alaska, and the job was insanely easy. I'm hoping that this project of rotor, caliper and pad replacement goes as smoothly.
Any pointers for rotor removal, bleeding, etc? Anything to be ready for that is unusual for this job?
Last edited by Schattenjager; 07-10-2012 at 01:24 PM.
Chance favors the prepared mind.
All cowardice comes from not loving, or not loving well, which is the same thing. EH
Observer
Pinch the brake lines to prevent air getting into the system. 80's brakes can be a real pain to bleed. Needle nose vice grips with electrical tape on the jaws works.
If you have a small impact with shallow wobble heads - things will go REALLY quick.
And a helper to bleed the brakes, unless you have a Mityvac brake bleeder.
Milo
'92 HDJ81
Air impact and press
No amount of hammer blows would losen the rotor from the hub on mine, and it took a good air impact wrench to get it loose and a press to remove.
Observer
never had any issues on any of my cruisers, including my 80. fairly easy except for the bleed, which is just a pita. calipers are very easy to rebuild. getting ready to replace my rotors when i regear the front end. take your time and work clean. get all the rust of any bolts, hubs etc, rattle can major parts, coat bolts when you put them on.
Central Scrutinizer
Originally Posted by shredwagon
Never do this.
Dave
Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series.....it's a sledgehammer approach to a thumbtack world.
I have never seen the need to have favorite quotes. Now that I think of it, people usually quote me.
I have a bunch of junk that is not any better than yours.
Portal #226
Copper State Cruisers Mbr.#85 and N. Arizona Representative
CSC Forum
Adventurer
+1
Never
But where we gonna find rubber pants our size?
Explorer
I am looking into buying an 80, why so hard to bleed the brakes? I made a list of all the fluids, etc I want to do to baseline it and bleeding the fluid was one item....
Jay
www.jaycapers.com
02 DC Tacoma - OME, sliders, Budbuilt rear bumper and skid and ARB bumper
93 FZJ80 - stock but dual lockers and less than 200k miles
02 Conqueror Compact Trailer
74 FJ40, 91 Hilux, 98 4Runner, 98 Rav4 - All Sold
"I don't want to be joined to another object by an incline plane, wrapped helically around an axis."
Central Scrutinizer
Do it one side at a time.
Do not force the fluid backward in the system. Open the bleed screw to relieve the fluid when compressing the caliper. The last thing you want to do is back flow the dirty brake fluid that has been in your caliper into the ABS module.
Once you swap the caliper, top off the fluid in the master cylinder, open the bleed screw and allow gravity to work most of the air out. If you are diligent about making sure the master cylinder stays full while you are working, you won't have a hard time bleeding the system at the end.
Dave
Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series.....it's a sledgehammer approach to a thumbtack world.
I have never seen the need to have favorite quotes. Now that I think of it, people usually quote me.
I have a bunch of junk that is not any better than yours.
Portal #226
Copper State Cruisers Mbr.#85 and N. Arizona Representative
CSC Forum
Expedition Leader
Dave is underpaid
Chance favors the prepared mind.
All cowardice comes from not loving, or not loving well, which is the same thing. EH
Observer
Right you are Dave. Especially with old break lines.
It was a whore bleeding the front after replacing the calipers. When I did the rear, an old timer machinist showed me that dark trick. I guess I have something to look forward to when I replace my brake lines......
Most importantly, bleed in the right sequence. I made that mistake with my RHD, which is opposite. Best of luck.
Milo
'92 HDJ81
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