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Thread: Very mild half-way 06 Tundra DC build

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lakeland, FL
    Posts
    17
    Went on my first camping/ATV trip with the new truck. It pulled the trailer pictured very well averaging around 12.5 MPG with the bed fully loaded with 4 people's junk and 4 people in the cab. Of course it rained on our 2nd day (and by rain I mean a very bad storm came through with very high gusts, lightning, and rain) and got everything in my tent wet including all clothes, sheets, cot, etc...) so me and my buddy slept in the Tundra on the 2nd night. It wasn't the most comfortable but it worked. And having a/c at the turn of a key was nice when its 90 degrees and humid



    When the storms got real bad we just popped in a movie



    Unfortunately, the place we go to camp and ride ATV's (TCR or Triple Canopy Ranch) shut their doors right after this event ended. It is the closest place to ride and camp within 2 hours of where I live, so I sold my ATV 3 days later because driving 2+ hours to ride and camp isn't something that is convenient. I can always buy another one one day....

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lakeland, FL
    Posts
    17
    Decided to get going on the steering rack bushing install this morning to get it over with and because it was not raining (yet). It went pretty smooth, the longest part was getting all the bolts/bushings lined up with the new bushings installed. But it just took some persuasion and everything went back together. I also rotated the tires and checked that all hardware was still tight after the Bilstein 5100 front install.

    After a test drive I could tell the steering was much tighter. Before, I had a pretty decent pull to the right and to correct it when going straight, my steering wheel would be turned slightly left. Now, the steering wheel is straight with much less pull to the right. I obviously need an alignment, but I am trying to hold off until I get my new wheels and tires. Regardless, it was definitely worth the ~$45 and couple hours of work.


  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lakeland, FL
    Posts
    17
    Haven't updated lately... been very busy with work and doing some side fabrication stuff for some friends and other people for extra side cash.

    But, I finally got around to ordering the rear Bilstein 5100 shocks from AJUSA. I am planning on detailing the truck very soon because some gray paint overspray got on everone's vehicle at work . It isn't too bad, but it needs to be clayed and waxed regardless. Also thinking about doing another traction bar on the rear end like my white truck had but in order to do that I think I need to get a smaller muffler (I do not want it any louder than stock) so I will be on the search for a pretty much drop-in, small, quiet muffler.

    Still on the search for wheels and tires also.....

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lakeland, FL
    Posts
    17
    I got the rear 5100's in the mail today and decided to go ahead and throw them on. I must say, Toyota must have designed the rear suspension in the most ridiculous, cramped, and dumbest way possible. Those top nuts on the stem of the shock were a complete pain to get off, which was expected, but they were a little harder than previously thought.

    I ended up having to grind two flat spots on the shock shaft so an adjustable wrench could be put on it to hold it from spinning (be VERY careful when doing this, as that shock could possibly explode when excessive heat is near and not to mention all the brake lines, gas tank/lines, etc). I was going to save the shocks, but you know how that ended up.




    Other than that, it is a pretty straightforward install. I did remove the spare tire to access the driver side shock a little easier. I haven't driven it yet... it's 7:00 and I am ready for bed

    I also highly recommend a 17mm ratchet (I call them writchy-ratchys, there is one in both of my pictures) for the top nut on the 5100's. I used a regular 17mm wrench and I started to get arm and hand cramps.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lakeland, FL
    Posts
    17
    Nothing special, but haven't posted in a while and figured I'd share my Jerry can holder I fabbed up with some scrap metal I had laying around. It's one of the cans that cheaper than dirt sells that's metal and simply bad ***. There are a lot of problems at local camping/off road events with theft and what not. I had a full 5 gal. gas can (plastic red one) stolen 2 years ago at an event so that prompted this build.

    Used some 1.5" angle, 1.5" flat stock, small hinge, and padlock.




    I have a little more done, but no pics. The top latch/lid goes along the top of the handle and directly over the cap so you cannot remove the tank or open the gas cap. Then, a simple locking system using a standard master padlock is used. This will more than likely be welded on the front of my trailer, where the tongue is.

    More pics tomorrow.

    And no, I am not tacking or welding with the gas can in place or with the metal still hot from welding.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lakeland, FL
    Posts
    17
    So here is what I got....






    Came out pretty good I think. I need to move the lower lock tab down, because with how long the lock is you can move the top latch up about 1.5". Something simple that I didn't even think about.

    I used some closed cell foam tape type stuff from the local Ace Hardware so the lid won't rattle around on the can too much hopefully.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    20
    Quote Originally Posted by apimpdad View Post
    I ended up having to grind two flat spots on the shock shaft so an adjustable wrench could be put on it to hold it from spinning (be VERY careful when doing this, as that shock could possibly explode when excessive heat is near and not to mention all the brake lines, gas tank/lines, etc). I was going to save the shocks, but you know how that ended up.



    At some point you'll run into the same problem except you'll want to save your shocks for some reason or another (servicing, higher end replacement, etc). Take a good pair of vice grips and wrap a thick towel around the valve of the shock to cushion the vice grips. Tighten up the vise grips as much as possible to get a firm grip on the shock and then rotate the shock body so that the vise grips are against the frame/suspension arm/etc. when you are loosening the top bolt. This will hold the shock in place when you loosen the top bolt.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Kauai
    Posts
    122
    No more SASed truck? Oh well. I like the bed bar. Have you put any lights on it? If so how is the pattern over the tailgate?

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lakeland, FL
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by Wainiha View Post
    No more SASed truck? Oh well. I like the bed bar. Have you put any lights on it? If so how is the pattern over the tailgate?
    Unfortunately no, I sold the white truck back in July to a guy in Michigan. And no lights on the bed bar. I tossed around the idea of mounting some under the truck, facing backwards near the rear leaf shackles to give me a little more light when backing up, but it was just an idea.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    230
    I wish I could just whip up some gas tank holders
    06' Taco 4x4, dbl cab, sport, auto, ltd slip, bilst 5100's w/eibach 886 coils, aal's,, 285/70 17's bfg KM2's, navi, K&N CAI, flowmaster, Rock rails, mile marker 9.5k winch w/ synthetic line, all-pro front and rear plate bumpers and skids. 07' ktm Super Enduro, lifetime 1st edition tent trailer. Catholicscomehome.org

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