The Dirt Sherpa Build

[Just Jeff]

It probably wouldn't look good if you just put a 3-4' section at the front end near the cab where it fits, either. I'm not sure they make 4x3 or 3x3 fenceposts...might be able to find them if you search a little deeper.

Interesting problem, and I'm glad you brought it up b/c I'm looking at 3/4-tons now and really like the Ram CCSB as a good balance of wheelbase, cab space and bed length. I had no idea this would be an issue but I'll be watching to see what you come up with!

 

[java]

How about painting the sides of the camper, under bed bed rail step, if that makes sense, black. Might hide the gap a bit.

 

[GCecchetto]

How about painting the sides of the camper, under bed bed rail step, if that makes sense, black. Might hide the gap a bit.

Trucks white, campers white, seems like that would be the best way to make it less conspicuous. I'm looking for a more functional fix though. Trying to find some type of tapered rubber mat to put under the camper. Once I even out the gap I think I'll be able to put the space to use.

 

[1stDeuce]

I know you want the lines to match, but the downside of raising the back of the camper 1" is that you'll then have to raise the front of the truck more like 2" to level it back out every time you camp... And of course the back of the camper being 1" higher is just adding to the climb-in height, which is probably only going to get higher as you mod the truck...

If square fence posts won't fit, how about 4" round PVC tubing?? Even if it was slightly over flush on the outside, it might fit in the space available a little better, and still be useful for the same type of stuff. ??

To be honest, I think it looks AWESOME, and the tapered box depth is going to show up on EVERY OTHER CAMPER made. I think anyone else who sees it is bound to agree and it's overall awesomeness!!
Chris

 

[1stDeuce]

Don't take that to the bank guys, that just sticks in my mind as something that was noted on the Cummins Forum. I'll see if I can dig into it a bit when I have a little time. All I know is that the truck camper restriction is only on some 2500s, not most.

Sidetracking a bit, but it was because the front axle wasn't rated to handle the weight of a Cummins plus snowplow. Might have been extended cab trucks only too... it was borderline, and you could easily buy a truck where the front axle GAWR was insufficient to mount a snowplow. Of course, nobody listened, and Dodge learned.

 

[GCecchetto]

I know you want the lines to match, but the downside of raising the back of the camper 1" is that you'll then have to raise the front of the truck more like 2" to level it back out every time you camp... And of course the back of the camper being 1" higher is just adding to the climb-in height, which is probably only going to get higher as you mod the truck...

If square fence posts won't fit, how about 4" round PVC tubing?? Even if it was slightly over flush on the outside, it might fit in the space available a little better, and still be useful for the same type of stuff. ??

To be honest, I think it looks AWESOME, and the tapered box depth is going to show up on EVERY OTHER CAMPER made. I think anyone else who sees it is bound to agree and it's overall awesomeness!!
Chris

I think I might have a source for the spacer I need to level it out, and it sounds pretty affordable. I'm waiting on a call back to verify weather or not the company can cut the 120psf Insulfoam board on the taper I need. One upside is that I would be adding some insulation between the floor of the camper and the bed of the truck. I'm going to continue down this path and weigh the pros and cons once it's installed. It will be cheap enough to abandon if it's not the right thing to do.

 

[Just Jeff]

Don't take that to the bank guys, that just sticks in my mind as something that was noted on the Cummins Forum. I'll see if I can dig into it a bit when I have a little time. All I know is that the truck camper restriction is only on some 2500s, not most.

The Ram Camper Guides for several years say that "The following trucks are NOT recommended for slide-in camper applications: All 4x4 models equipped with snow plow prep models. All Ram 2500 Power Wagon models."

http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/2011/docs/ram/ramcgrcc.pdf
http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2014/docs/ram/hdramcg.pdf

Here's a screen grab:

 

[GCecchetto]

Well, glad I didn't buy the truck I was looking at that had the snow plow prep group. I can't really see how it would be a problem though, are you really going to have your camper loaded up and have your plow on the front?

 

[Jeep]

Well, glad I didn't buy the truck I was looking at that had the snow plow prep group. I can't really see how it would be a problem though, are you really going to have your camper loaded up and have your plow on the front?

Well where I live…..just might happen!

Nice to see the truck choice. I was really leaning towards a Toyota recently as I don't use the capacity of my 2500 Diesel as much as I used to, but as soon as I find a nice Toyota I need my diesel for a big job, your experience has pretty much ended the Toyota idea.

Cheers,
Mark

 

[GCecchetto]

Well where I live…..just might happen!

Nice to see the truck choice. I was really leaning towards a Toyota recently as I don't use the capacity of my 2500 Diesel as much as I used to, but as soon as I find a nice Toyota I need my diesel for a big job, your experience has pretty much ended the Toyota idea.

Cheers,
Mark

I wish Toyota would get on with making a 3/4 ton truck, maybe the 2016 with the v8 Cummins will be, who knows. The Ram is great, but it already has some electronics issues and will have to go back to the dealer. That's the thing with toyota, they always work. Just wish they would have worked out the cooling issue with the front brakes before I bought mine.

 

[Jeep]

I wish Toyota would get on with making a 3/4 ton truck, maybe the 2016 with the v8 Cummins will be, who knows. The Ram is great, but it already has some electronics issues and will have to go back to the dealer. That's the thing with toyota, they always work. Just wish they would have worked out the cooling issue with the front brakes before I bought mine.

My old 2004 Ram diesel had 485 000 KM on it and was just starting to nickel and dime me beyond the value of a new truck payment, just as I was about to but a new Ram another 2004 popped up for sale, garage stored 2004 diesel with only 70 000 Km on it so I jumped on it immediately just from the great experience I had with my old truck, and the amount of money it sold for. I have had Toyotas before and agree with the reliability statement, especially with the electronics in the new vehicles which is why I was considering a new Toyota in the last year, they do need to build a 3/4 ton, might tune the rest of the industry up…...

 

[1stDeuce]

I wish Toyota would get on with making a 3/4 ton truck, maybe the 2016 with the v8 Cummins will be, who knows. The Ram is great, but it already has some electronics issues and will have to go back to the dealer. That's the thing with toyota, they always work. Just wish they would have worked out the cooling issue with the front brakes before I bought mine.

Crap. Electronics issues STILL???? My friend bought a new '13 and as of a few months ago, it had been to the dealer 6 times in 6000 miles for electrical issues with the radio, hvac, power stuff and auto memory stuff. Last I heard, it was still doing a few odd/whacky things, like always turning on his seat heaters, even in the summer... I think Ram bought Sockpuppet's truck back for similar things. I can't believe they haven't sorted this stuff out yet... Seems to be a bigger problem on the high-end trucks, with nav and auto everything, as another friend has a base truck that's also a '13 and it's fine... Hope they get you taken care of! (And get their shiz in a group ASAP!!)

 

[GCecchetto]

Crap. Electronics issues STILL???? My friend bought a new '13 and as of a few months ago, it had been to the dealer 6 times in 6000 miles for electrical issues with the radio, hvac, power stuff and auto memory stuff. Last I heard, it was still doing a few odd/whacky things, like always turning on his seat heaters, even in the summer... I think Ram bought Sockpuppet's truck back for similar things. I can't believe they haven't sorted this stuff out yet... Seems to be a bigger problem on the high-end trucks, with nav and auto everything, as another friend has a base truck that's also a '13 and it's fine... Hope they get you taken care of! (And get their shiz in a group ASAP!!)

My UConnect 8.4AN radio did have an update available. Just installed that last night so hopefully it takes care of the radio issues. Apparently there is a software flash coming out in August for the 68RFE trans that will hopefully cure the trans behavior that is bothering me. I don't know if my truck is doing anything wrong, I just think the shift and Tow/Haul algorithm is crap. Just not worked out like the Aisin trans in the Toyota. The issue with the Exhaust Brake indicator not turning green when in auto mode like the manual says turns out to be a none issue. It doesn't turn green with standard EVIC gauge cluster, just the 7" EVIC.

So the Issues remaining to sort out are:

Possible leaking rear main seal - this would be a total drag. Seems unlikely, the problem with this trucks is almost never the mechanics of the cummins.
EVIC doesn't stay on the screen I had it last set on when I start the truck. It varies from start up to start up as to which screen it is on. Other report it always defaults to the same screen.
Clunk from front drivers side radius arm where it mounts to frame.

Thought about buying a GM, but I hate the monkey motion front end they have. I'm likely over reacting to some of the issues. I don't think that there is anything wrong with the trans, just not as sophisticated a shift/tow/haul algorithm as I am used to. Hopefully the new software cleans that up.

 

[chet6.7]

My UConnect 8.4AN radio did have an update available. Just installed that last night so hopefully it takes care of the radio issues. Apparently there is a software flash coming out in August for the 68RFE trans that will hopefully cure the trans behavior that is bothering me. I don't know if my truck is doing anything wrong, I just think the shift and Tow/Haul algorithm is crap. Just not worked out like the Aisin trans in the Toyota. The issue with the Exhaust Brake indicator not turning green when in auto mode like the manual says turns out to be a none issue. It doesn't turn green with standard EVIC gauge cluster, just the 7" EVIC.

So the Issues remaining to sort out are:

Possible leaking rear main seal - this would be a total drag. Seems unlikely, the problem with this trucks is almost never the mechanics of the cummins.
EVIC doesn't stay on the screen I had it last set on when I start the truck. It varies from start up to start up as to which screen it is on. Other report it always defaults to the same screen.
Clunk from front drivers side radius arm where it mounts to frame.

Thought about buying a GM, but I hate the monkey motion front end they have. I'm likely over reacting to some of the issues. I don't think that there is anything wrong with the trans, just not as sophisticated a shift/tow/haul algorithm as I am used to. Hopefully the new software cleans that up.

I hope that flash materializes and fixes the tow/haul shifting,I am disappointed in it as well.

 

[Sock Puppet]

Possible leaking rear main seal - this would be a total drag. Seems unlikely, the problem with this trucks is almost never the mechanics of the cummins.
EVIC doesn't stay on the screen I had it last set on when I start the truck. It varies from start up to start up as to which screen it is on. Other report it always defaults to the same screen.

I've seen a lot of posts about a "leaking rear main seal" on other forums, and most of the time it's just some sort of lube used in manufacturing. Probably nothing to worry about.

Which EVIC do you have? My '13 had the 7", I chose the "dumber" version on my '14. I usually leave it on Trip A or Trip B, and it stays on that screen at each start up.