Looking into rust prevention for my canter. I have never had underbody treatments on other 4WDs but keen to protect this one. Any suggestions?
Looking into rust prevention for my canter. I have never had underbody treatments on other 4WDs but keen to protect this one. Any suggestions?
Ben
best hint for rust prevention - drive in the desert and stay off the beach, hard to do in Qld i know
I have one of those little electronic cathodic units on my truck body, not sure how well it works but my rust is minimal
on my old cruiser (used for towing the ski boat) id sparay fisholene on the undersides with a spray gun after id washed it down
that and lonolin on the bright work
it smelled awful especially on the hot exhaust and it wassnt uncommon to find a cat trying to eat my rear diff
but it controlled the rust and considering the amount of salt water it was put in Id say it worked
Nothing Stops it... but...
Once again, I'm sure John's got the best info on this, but i use Techtyl or Septone Anti Corrosion Wax. It doesn't stink like the fish oil and is what the panel beaters use to rust protect cars around here. 4ltrs of it will cost about $50, i just did the underbody of my truck and went through 7 ltrs' of it.. I used it on my last ute which was on the beach all the time and there wasn't a speck of rust on it after 5 years on the beach
cotton seed oil, walks further than diesel, but if it catches fire,just walk away
I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not so sure.
Us Nordics claim Boiled Linseed Oil is best. It penetrates well into any sort of crevice then hardens to a gummy texture.
It can be messy to apply, But re-applies easily after a good steamblast and dry off.
Scandinavia is virtually no beaches to drive on, But we have alot of coastal area, and salt is mixed in the roadgritters during the winter what is a social concern as well.
Visit
http://www.facebook.com/saltupproret
http://www.nordiq.net/saltupproret/
Last edited by Verkstad; 07-10-2012 at 03:18 AM.
Every car owner dreads rust eating away at the precious metal of their vehicle. Rust can appear on any unprotected part of your car, including, but not limited to, the hinges, engine, trunk, and window frames. Rust happens when a combination of air and water is allowed to sit on your vehicle for prolonged periods of time. Prevention of such an occurrence would mean removing air and water.
Process of Rust Proofing
• A thorough cleaning away of dirt and debris.
• Spraying a sealant to keep harmful chemicals off.
• Let dry; once it’s finished, the product prevents rust from forming.
From experience in military packaging, when you have the proper moisture barrier materials, you can extend the lifespan of valuable equipment. It’s important to be pre-emptive when it comes to corrosion prevention or else you could wind up spending a lot more than you’d like. You can see how products like mil-prf-131 and vapor corrosion inhibitors protects airplanes and military equipment: http://www.protectivepackaging.net/military-packaging
http://ruststopnorthamerica.com/
or POR15 (if you have that in Oz)
if not, it converts any existing rust and prevents new but its a pretty nasty undercoating and wont come off so be careful what you get it on.
The POR 15 system is available in Australia from PPC.
http://www.ppcco.com.au/restoration.htm
My attempt to build something to go somewhere else...
Canter4x4.com
One of the products that I have used is called RustBlast
As well as rust conversion, it is also good as a metal primer on the parts I have had sand blasted, as it leave a zinc phosphate coating on the metal's surface. It is also really good for keying new galvanized steel in preparation for painting.
My attempt to build something to go somewhere else...
Canter4x4.com