M416 Build in Maryland

Kflash

Adventurer
New to forum!

Just purchased a 1972 M416 from a gentleman in Fredericksburg, VA. Owned prior by VA Department of Forestry and was in really great shape. When I purchased it, it had been wire wheeled sanded and painted. Had the original lunette cut off and a standard hitch receiver whelded to it. I will be selling that if anyone is interested, as I already have a new lunette ordered. I will be keeping it fairly stock for now to keep it historically intact for future resale. Then again, may do axles and tires at a later date to match Jeep. I purchased a few other parts to freshen it up. New-old rims, new tires/tubes, bed spring stoppers, axle bearings/cups, hub covers, canvas tarp and shocks.

I do need to have one of the tabs re-welded that holds the bracked for the spring drain stopper, and have them fab up a small piece of metal that comvers one of the drain holes.

Even though the old tires were fairly worn, it towed great back to my home. Since it was given a VIN and titled/registered in VA, I am hoping that with a quick inspection, I will have it on the road soon.

Keeping the stock axle and tires, I needed to move the lunette to the top position. It should tow fairly flat with the new tires in place. If not, a mild shackle lift should do. I have a 3 in Teraflex short arm lift on the JK and 35 in Procomp Xtreme mud terrains. Not sure if 35s would make the trailer a bit dysfunctional for general use without a tailgate.
 

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Kflash

Adventurer
Thanks. Was really glad to finally find (and afford) one close enough! New rims were only $24 and tires $100. Probably go more agressive later, but this keeps it in my budget for now.
 

Kflash

Adventurer
Got started tonight

Wire wheeled, sanded and primed one of the original rims. Gave a guy at tire place a few bucks to pop off the tire. Painted the backs of all three tonight. The original green of the new/old rims almost looked too cool to paint over, but that wouldn't match the Jeep. Went with a gloss black to match.

I goofed and only ordered two tires. Will have to eat another shipping charge for the spare. I may just keep one of the originals as a spare as I plan to upgrade next year.

Wheels  Before.jpg
 

Hill Bill E.

Oath Keeper
New to forum!

........ I will be keeping it fairly stock for now to keep it historically intact for future resale. Then again, may do axles and tires at a later date to match Jeep. .....

First off, Welcome to the ExPo forum!!!

I also wanted to keep my M416 to be able to be returned to 'historically intact', yet have it match the Jeep(s) ride height and looks.

I managed to make fender extensions to cover the aftermarket wheels and MT style tires, fabbed an extension for the landing leg to match the spring over height, and do the spring over (pulled the backing plates for the parking brake, and rolled the axle shaft 180* and under the springs, then bolted the backing plates back on in the proper orientation)

I'm in the (slow) process of rebuilding a '46 CJ2A, and plan on returning the trailer to stock once the 2A is done and ready for 'parade duty' :coffeedrink:

My Trailer Build

And some more great reference for M416's and other small trailer builds (great for ideas!)

'Collection of trailer Builds'

Enjoy your new trailer!
 

Kflash

Adventurer
Axle Flip/Spring Over

Now you all have me thinking...as happens with most new projects!

Probably gonna flip the axle. As far as I can tell, here are the steps - please correct me if I am wrong and fill in the gaps.

Jack stand trailer frame
Wheels off
Remove 6 bolts from back of hub area to axle
Unbolt U bolts
180 degree and flip of axle
Rebolt U bolts
Transfer hub assemblies to oposite sides - Am I correct on this to keep parking brake working?

Questions - It looks like the shock is at a sever angle with the bottom mounting point now on the top? Is the shock really doing anything in this position?

Is the parking brake adjustment simply a reset of the tension by adjusting at the J bolt?

Thanks
 

DonBeasley

Adventurer
Now you all have me thinking...as happens with most new projects!

Probably gonna flip the axle. As far as I can tell, here are the steps - please correct me if I am wrong and fill in the gaps.

Jack stand trailer frame
Wheels off
Remove 6 bolts from back of hub area to axle
Unbolt U bolts
180 degree and flip of axle
Rebolt U bolts
Transfer hub assemblies to oposite sides - Am I correct on this to keep parking brake working?

Questions - It looks like the shock is at a sever angle with the bottom mounting point now on the top? Is the shock really doing anything in this position?

Is the parking brake adjustment simply a reset of the tension by adjusting at the J bolt?

Thanks

It's been a while but I will chime in and see if my old memory is right.

I believe all you have to do is unbolt the backplate, rotate axle in place 180 degrees, put it below the springs, reverse u-bolts, put shock plate on top of springs, and bolt the hub assebles back on the same side they came off of. You will now have the axle in springover mode and the brake assembly still on the top of the hub. it is not as hard as I am making it sound.

Because the cable connection is now lower, the j hook assembly will not work in its current state. You will need to make a few extensions and make the J hook a little longer to make it work correctly. Mark has listed the link to my build. You should be able to see the extension work in there. I will review the thread today to make sure. If not just drop me a note and I can send you pictures.

I started out thinking restoration but as Mark says, these trailers are an overlanders dream. Hard not to just make it a total expo rig. If you look at mine, I can put the axle back in spring under, take the lid and tongue box off, cut the angle iron off the round tube and it is back to factory.

JUST CHECKED MY THREAD. PICTURES ON POST #68 MAY BE OF SOME HELP.
 
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Kflash

Adventurer
Thanks for the feedback (Mark, Bill and Don). The only part to figure out is the measurement for the shorter shocks that would be needed. Other than that, I've got it!

The guy that painted the trailer prior to me painted over everything. Hope the bolts back off the J bolt easily enough.
 
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Kflash

Adventurer
Wheels Painted and New Hitch Installed

From JCWhitney today-New hitch and Hub Socket. Will be packing new axle bearings this weekend.

Finished painting the wheels today as well. The one I wire wheeled doesn't look anywhere near as good as the two new/old ones, but hey - it's only the spare.

Question - want to buy new lug nuts. What version Jeep do they come off of?
 

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DonBeasley

Adventurer
I may be wrong on this but the M416 was mostly pulled by the Mutt and not the Jeep, although most parts are off of a jeep. Try looking for lug nuts for an M151. Try Frontline Military Vehicles. If you call them they can verify the correct part.
 

Kflash

Adventurer
Thanks. I ordered the rims and tire tubes from front line.

The large hub socket I got from JCWhitney today was supposed to be 2 1/16, but closer to 2 1/8. The replacement hub nuts are definately 2 1/16.

Question - I dont want to round off the lock nut, but am thinking it doesn't go on that tight. Should the socket I ordered work ok?
 

Hill Bill E.

Oath Keeper
Now you all have me thinking...as happens with most new projects!

Probably gonna flip the axle. As far as I can tell, here are the steps - please correct me if I am wrong and fill in the gaps.

Jack stand trailer frame
Wheels off
Remove 6 bolts from back of hub area to axle
Unbolt U bolts
180 degree and flip of axle Not quite, see below
Rebolt U bolts
Transfer hub assemblies to oposite sides
no - Am I correct on this to keep parking brake working?yes-with some mods to the cable brackets

Questions - It looks like the shock is at a sever angle with the bottom mounting point now on the top? Is the shock really doing anything in this position?

Is the parking brake adjustment simply a reset of the tension by adjusting at the J bolt?

Thanks


On the axle, it just needs to be flipped, so the spring pads still ride on the springs. The left side will still be on the left, right side on the right. (you don't move the axle 'end for end' so to speak, but rather roll it over to mount under the springs)

No need to transfer the hubs from side to side, as the hubs and axle ends stay on the end they are in stock configuration.

The reason for removing the 6 bolts on the backing plate, is to keep the plate's oreintation correct. And the cables for the parking brake will be in the same spot.

The shocks still work, abeit not as effectively as if they are more vertical. If mounted on the existing mounts (for this, you have to swap the plates left to right/right to left) it will help control bounce and smooth the ride.

My parking brake cables were tight, to tight to use the stock mounts on the tub. I made some drop brackets, and they worked great.

Parking brake stand off:

TrailerProject008.jpg
 

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