Thread: InvisibleOne's OverANYLand Rockcrawler Conversion

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    San Francisco East Bay Area
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    72
    Before I update here I wanted to let the few of you that have already seen the first post, titled NEW MEMBER / NEW INTERESTS / NEW MODS / SAME TOYOTA that yes, I changed the name of my thread. Since I actuallly plan to document this years build, I thought I might give it a title more represetative of what will be found within.

    Without further chatter lets get to the update.

    I've gotten myself wrapped up in quite a project. Since my last update no less than 30 hours have been sunken into this beast. I'm beat, and nowhere near where I need to be in one weeks time. This making room for the girls and lowering the center of gravity stuff has created a chain reaction of changes to the vehicle that I can't seem to stop. One decision impacts something else, then that solution impacts something else and so on. First it was make room for a rear seat so both girls can ride along. To do that I have to move the spare, the icechests, and the tools. All must be relocated, all in locations that contribute to the secondary goal of lowering the center of gravity. First, I moved the spare off the toolbox in the back to a swing away setup. In the position the tire is in and it's size, it actually adds some rollover protection to the back as long as it is super secure. I didn't think the DeStacto clamp that came with the EMS kit met the definition of 'super secure', so I used a push button pin I got from MSC Industrial to through pin the crossbar that is the foundation of the mount.

    http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT...-SearchResults

    Pin.jpg

    Not cheap. $70 with shipping. Ouch. I looked long and hard at that DeStacto clamp but just didn't see it holding a 36" tire secure enough for me to sign off on it.

    Heres a shot of it in place. Works pretty good, could still be better. Need some hard rubber for the bottom of the "C" mount. I imagine I'll tweek on it more but for now I'm moving on. Too much more to get too before the Jamboree...

    Pin_In.jpg

    I feel pretty good about the holding power of the pin through that heavy steel. Still have to beef up the tire mount inself to insure it will carry the weight of the spare under all conditions, but I'll get to that this week..

    I posted earlier about a chuck box idea I had for the back of that swing away tire carrier and I've made a discovery. It won't work there. I simply can't make it big enough to hold all my kitchen essentials. Period. Might be perfect for a expeditionary watering hole though... So I gave up on that for the time being and started on the tool tray.

    There is a nice space under the bed that equates to about 2.5 cubic feet. Its 30" X 18" X 8". Its right next to the fuel tank, between the frame rails, under the bed. Low weight. Only problem is that it's on top of the muffler.

    P1010455.jpg

    I see this as a perfect spot for tools and recovery gear. Easy outside the rig access, good weight to have down low my kit is at least 150 pounds, and tools can handle some heat. So I got to work. I started with something I already had, this ATV cargo carrier from our favorite importers of disposable tools, Harbor Freight...

    http://www.harborfreight.com/150-lb-...ier-67623.html

    ATV_Cargo.jpg

    When I saw this thing I thought.... I can butcher that right up. Actually I bought it last year thinking I'd make a different rack out of it, but it's going to work great for this. At least I think it will. Its super lightweight steel. Like .055 wall. your typical Harbor Freight Chinese junk but I'm reinforcing it a bit to be sure it holds. I started by laying it out on my welding table..

    P1010451.jpg

    I marked out equal amounts from each side to section the two halves, then cut them with the Porta-band.

    P1010461.jpg

    Then I cut some short sections of small 1/2"X1/2" box tubing to slide inside the almost 3/4" x almost 3/4" Chinese imitation steel the Cargo carrier was made out of and welded them in one side first.

    P1010463.jpg

    You may notice the holes drilled in the cargo carrier bars. Those are only in the cargo carrier tubing, not the insert tubes. By drilling holes in the tubing and not the inner tubes, I create an extra weld point for a little more strength. That thin-*** metal is super hard weld, especially since I suck at welding. Its been a while, and it always takes me a good couple sessions to get dialed in again. Good thing I'm pretty good at grinding.

    P1010464.jpg

    Once I had it all welded up (and ground back down ), I clamped it into location to see how it all fit. I didn't get the best photo of that at the time, but you can see the toolboxes under the bed in this photo..

    Rear_Tire_Closed.jpg

    This shot shows the toolboxes and recovery gear that I intend to carry here. You'll also notice in this pic that I have a battery box in the tray as well. This is where I decided to mount the auxilliary battery for the fridge and lighting.

    P1010500.jpg

    I love the idea of having another 70 to 100 pounds under the bed, low weight again. But this spot is going to get hot, it's 2" above the muffler. Batteries don't like heat. Hear that? Yep, that there's a time vacuum that just ate another weekend day. I decided that the battery under the bed was worth shielding the heat and got to fabbing up a series of heat shields to protect the contents of the tool tray, primarily the battery that is going to cost a small fortune.
    Last edited by InvisibleOne; 07-16-2012 at 05:38 AM.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    117
    I like scavenging and repurposing!

    You wrote:

    "That thin-*** metal is super hard weld, especially since I suck at welding....Good thing I'm pretty good at grinding."

    You have good balance in your life after all!

    Have fun

    Tom

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    San Francisco East Bay Area
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    72

    Default It's Heatshield Sunday!

    I started the heat shield project with a couple quick sketches faxed off to local fab shops that could fold me up what I was looking for out of some thin aluminum. The low bid near $400, the high bid over. Just a little too rich for a heat shield so I got to building them myself out of some aluminum sheet I realized I had 'in-stock'.

    As luck would have it, I have some aluminum in the form of a retail display that I got from work a few years back. One hour of dissection and I had some 1/8 aluminum sheet to work with. Reduce - recycle - reuse. Who cares what it looks like. Its a tool tray for crying out load. Under the bed no less.

    Note to self. When cutting aluminum on a table saw one is well advised to wear long heavy sleeves and a full face mask to prevent one from suffering the death of one million tiny cuts. Remembering this wisdom mid cut is just a tad to late. The jig saw is far kinder although not as fast or accurate. Decide for yourself, but consider yourself warned, the tablesaw is scary painful cutting aluminum.

    I expect that muffler climbs above 200 degrees, so one shield won't be enough to protect that battery. I made templates out of cardboard first and figured how I wanted to go about creating layers of heat isolation. The first shield would be suspended below the tool tray/rack and above the muffler. I decided to allow a minimum of two inches clearance between the rack and the muffler, which made the battery space tight to the floor of the bed, but I figured two inches of seperation to be the minimum. I then divided that space in half with the first shield, 1" below the tray and 1" above the muffler. That shield would be suspended from the bottom of the rack by 5/8" OD aluminum tubing cut 3/4" long to create heat isolaters if you will. My thinking is that this will require the muffler to first heat the shield and conduct that energy up through the aluminum spacers before it can heat the the second shield mounted to the bottom of the frame of the rack. That's the theory anyway, as of yet untested. Heres a shot of the spacers and the countersunk bolts I used. I didn't use the washers or these nuts..

    P1010497.jpg

    In order to minimize the heat conducted from the first shield to the second, I opted not to through bolt the first shield to the frame. I figure those bolts will get hot and fast track heat to the frame. Instead I welded shouldered nuts to the underside of the rack/tray. I started by setting the heat shield in position where it would hang under the rack on the rack itself and clamped them together. Then I layed out my eight bolts and drilled the holes through the aluminum and only one side (the bottom) of the racks tubing in one drilling.

    P1010486.jpg

    Then I unclamped the two parts and threaded the bolts into the shouldered nuts about half way and placed them in the holes in the rack.

    P1010488.jpg

    Then welded those shouldered nuts to the frame. I discovered to be sure to spin the bolts a little while I'm welding to make sure they don't get welded in. I had to cut one off.

    P1010494.jpg

    Then I took a step bit and drilled out one end of the aluminum tube spacers so they would fit snug over the bolt head welded to the frame of the rack.

    P1010498.jpg

    Next I countersunk the heads of the bolts into the aluminum that will act as the first heat shield and bolted the whole lot together.

    P1010499.jpg

    So that finished up the first layer of heat defense, but I don't think that will be enough. Just to be sure the contents of the tool tray, primarily that golden battery that will ride there, stay unmelted I cut out another shield to fit inside the tool tray itself. This one has sides and almost closes up the tray, no pis on that yet but I may get something up soon.

    Thanks for viewing! Your comments and suggestions are welcome. Any ideas to increase the insulation from the muffler?
    Last edited by InvisibleOne; 09-12-2012 at 01:16 AM.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    San Francisco East Bay Area
    Posts
    72

    Default Boxes, a bbq, and BILLET !

    Got a little tired of the tool tray, it's almost done, but man am I sick of grinding. I've been going to bed with the taste of metal in my mouth. Sick of that, glad I'm not a welder by trade. You'd think by now my welding skills would be picking up but no. So I'm a grind happy fool. Loving the Metabo grinder with the flapper wheel, so much better than the abrasive disk. So much better..

    DSC00059.JPG

    So being sick of grinding, I switched up to apply my daily occupation, woodworking, to this build to create some sort of storage solution that would utilize the space formerly held by the ice chests. They couldn't be as wide as the ice chests as the girls seat will be between them and that seat is the reason the ice chests had to go, but that still left a nice little pocket where a box could fit. I was able to get a box 36" X 11" X 13" deep. I mocked one up tonight after work. They're going to work out great, they offer alot of storage space that I was wondering where I was going to get, for cooking stuff, camping gear, ect. I even got lucky and my small propane bottle fits perfect. Although, I'm not sure how I feel about propane in an enclosed box. Anybody got input on that issue? I know a lot of adventure trailers have compartments with the bottles in them, but I still think I'd feel better if it was in a vented enclosure..

    DSC00064.JPG

    When I got home there was a small package I had been waiting for so I also got my hi-lift jack relocated. Here's a shot of the whole evenings progress. Pretty happy with tonight. I even cleaned the shop up.

    DSC00067.JPG

    Above you can see the box with the jack below, and to the rear is a nifty spot that I found my small Weber BBQ would fit nice and tight. I'm thinking about fabbing up some sort of swing down bracketry to lower it down to a usable position, or maybe just cut the stamped steel step its bungied up under and use it for the lid and weld up a bracket to hold the bottom half where it sits. Jurys out on that one, probably just leave it bungied for now, getting short on time. If you look to the end of the hi-lift you'll see what came in the box I recieved today. This super trick billit aluminum knurled turn knob from Mortons Machine Works. They've got tons of cool turn knobs, I had a hard time choosing one.

    DSC00065.JPG

    It was really inexpensive, like $12 bucks. That's a whole lot of machine work for $12. They have a $25 minimum so I got a few other little bits for stuff I'll post up as they get built. Here's a link, they make all kind of killer knobs.

    http://workholdingcomponents.mortonm...etal-handknobs

    Thats it for tonight, tomorrow I hope to get the matching box made for the other side, and possibly finish up the tool tray and install the floor back in the bed. I stood back and took a 'as it sits shot' so here's that one..

    DSC00069.JPG

    It's starting to shape up. Got a long way to go though...

    Thanks for viewing.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    San Francisco East Bay Area
    Posts
    72

    Default My you are a Foxy little Wing of an awning aren't you?

    Wow, 1000 views and nobody has anything to say. You Toyota driving Expeditionaries are a tough bunch. Oh well, at least you guys don't muck up the thread talking a bunch of crap like some other forums I've lurked. This is really more for my own build documentation anyway. So, on with it then..

    Got the saddlebox built for the passenger side last night and epoxy sealed the both of them today after work. Last night I spent some time figuring what was going in them and where. Driver side will definitely be the chuck box with the kitchen supplies as well as house the electrical components like the battery monitor, solar voltage regulator, and the inverter. The main bar of the cage creates a nice little space where all of those will fit inside the box out of the elements. You can see that spot in the pic looking into the box in the last update. I meant to do some wiring tonight, but everything came to a halt when the Foxwing arrived.

    Had to get that mounted. Straight up awesome. Worth every penny. Well we'll see but so far I'm stoked on it.

    Foxwing.JPG

    My house mate Karl, another Toyota lover, is starting to come out and get real interested in whats going on in the shop. He's starting to talk about wanting to do this and that to his truck. I tell him to get to eBaying some of his very extensive toy collection (Just like the 40 year old virgin, not kidding) to put that money toward ordering some parts and we'll do it up. In the mean time I'm happy to have his help, I really needed it tonight mounting the awning, holding it in position on the cage was no easy feat as the tubes are all irregular angles up top. While we were pondering different mounting options, I started looking at the mounting accessories it came with for mounting to Thule and Yakima racks and said, "Man I wish I had an old Thule rack I could cut up." Karl goes rummaging through his garage and comes out with one.

    DSC00074.JPG

    I'm always amazed at the request he can fill out of that little garage of his. It's like he has a magic lamp in there or something.
    Last edited by InvisibleOne; 07-20-2012 at 07:11 AM.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    64
    Love it mate!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    El Mirage, AZ
    Posts
    194
    Nice project you have there!

    There are two observations I can make here;

    1...you're sitting quite high with the suspention, without linking it or flatter springs, have you thought about shorter shackles or even frenching the front spring mounts higher into the frame to lower your CG?

    2...you have a LOT of space in back below the rear deck and between the springs. You could have made a well in there for the fridge and other storage to lower your CG further.
    1994 Jeep Wrangler YJ Unlimited...under construction
    D44HP front, 5.13's, locked, D60HD rear, 5.13's locked, disked, 37X12.50-17's on H2's, 3 link front suspention, spring under rear, custom cage, Beard seats (F&R), and 4 tired squirrels pushing a slush box underneath!

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    San Francisco East Bay Area
    Posts
    72
    Quote Originally Posted by Holger View Post
    Love it mate!
    Thanks! When I was 'Down Under' all I could think about was how much I wished I had my truck. The LC's we travelled in were very cool though.. Went out to Ayers Rock and the Olgas through Alice Springs (where there isn't a chicken to be found so I have no idea where Outback got that menu item) then up to Darwin. Amazing country. One day I will return to tour the Gold Coast.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    San Francisco East Bay Area
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    72
    Quote Originally Posted by lamontagne View Post
    Nice project you have there!

    There are two observations I can make here;

    1...you're sitting quite high with the suspention, without linking it or flatter springs, have you thought about shorter shackles or even frenching the front spring mounts higher into the frame to lower your CG?

    2...you have a LOT of space in back below the rear deck and between the springs. You could have made a well in there for the fridge and other storage to lower your CG further.
    Lamontagne,

    Thanks for the comments! Actually, yes, I've contemplated a number of ways to 'lower' the suspention, including shorter shackles, as well as coil overs, eliptical springs, ect. The limiting factor is tire size. Running the 36" I have to keep the clearance where it's at too clear in the front. If I were to french in the leaf points as you suggest, I couldn't clear the tire. I have labored over going to a smaller tire to be able to lower the vehicle but for the bulk of the use this vehicle sees, mostly Rubicon and similar trails, tire size is generally considered 'bigger is better'. I would like to go to 42" and most likely will cut out the inner fenderwells to accomodate that. When that happens, I will again address lowering the suspention as I ultimately agree with you there. That is the best way to lower the CG.

    Additionally, read through the thread, you will see that I have actually already done as you suggested with both the empty well space and the fridge. We are obviously thinking along the same lines. Thanks for your post.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    CO. CO. County
    Posts
    565
    Nice rig and look forward to the progress on your transformation!

    What are your plans for weather proofing yourself and the interior from rain, snow and sun?
    Mike
    SAC'ed 2000 V8 tundra - http://dyogim.blogspot.com

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