LJ Transfer Case Shifter Mechanism Woes

[grahamfitter]

That mostly explains it, dropping the transfer case only makes the mounting points on the lever even more out of alignment.

Oops, I reread and rewrote my post to be a little clearer... no body lift, no transfer case drop, no tummy tuck, etc.

Moving stuff around would obviously cause problems but that isn't the case here.

I have the Novak shifter and it cured all the issues I had. The factory design is extremely clunky and requires much effort to move which leads to broken parts... My advice would be to get the Novak and be done with it.

I ran the novak for years, it is bullet proof.

Novak shifter will take care of the problem .....

Another vote for the Novak cable system. SOOO much easier to shift into 4wheel now.

Thanks, I'll take a look. No home brew solutions out there?

Hmm cable vs the rod setup from novak...sugestions on which is better?

The stock setup on the cherokees mount to the body and when flexed mine will pop out of gear. Only when I stuff my driver side tire though. Its odd. Which is why I'm getting a novak setup.

Its strange that for years Jeep would make such a daft assembly that is known to fail when vehicles are used as designed. Actually, no, its not strange at all. Is this fixed in the new JK Wrangler?

[Jim K in PA]

Graham-I am not aware of any quickie home-brew fixes, but then again, I have not had a problem with mine. I have over 130k miles, a body lift, TT, MML, and have not had any T-case shifter issues. I suspect the bucket side of the linkage on yours is damaged. Probably done by the nincompoops at the stealership when the engine/trans R&R was done. If you don't want to spring for the Novak unit yet, try and locate a good used stock bracket setup and swap out the old parts.

Sorry, not much help.

[grahamfitter]

Graham-I am not aware of any quickie home-brew fixes, but then again, I have not had a problem with mine. I have over 130k miles, a body lift, TT, MML, and have not had any T-case shifter issues. I suspect the bucket side of the linkage on yours is damaged. Probably done by the nincompoops at the stealership when the engine/trans R&R was done. If you don't want to spring for the Novak unit yet, try and locate a good used stock bracket setup and swap out the old parts.

Sorry, not much help.

This looks like the right Novak part for the NP241OR transfer case in the Rubicon models: http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_sk2xr.htm

To be honest if I'm going to take the old mechanism out I'd prefer to replace it with one that's guaranteed not to have the same problems. Besides I'm not sure it would be possible to tell whether another bracket is any good so beating the current one into submission would be more therapeutic!

I'm wondering if its possible to simply secure the rod into the bracket with a clip or nut on the back side. There seems to be plenty of play on the other end.

[Jim K in PA]

I agree 100% - I would not spend any serious $$ on fixing the stock unit. I would just swap in the Novak shifter and be done. I was just addressing the "quick & dirty" part of the question. I suspect you can modify the stock pivot to accept a cotter key or something similar to provide more positive retention, but beating it with a hammer after the Novak cable is in will be MUCH more satisfying . . .

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

It won't make you feel any better, but mine did this once or twice on my 04 Unlimited with an Atlas T-Case.

[hansonian]

Mine popped out during Tropical Storm Debby and I had to crawl under it in the water and mud. I put a couple of zip ties around it and it seems to hold for now. I've been trying to figure out a solution to this also, I may take a closer look at the Novak setup since the factory one seems to be prone to failure at the worse times.

[dumprat]

Cut the end off that attaches to the T case bracket.
Thread it with a die nut.
Thread on a ball and socket joint from the parts store.
Bolt it back on with a jam nut and a nylock nut.

This should allow you to adjust the length as well.

[Black_ZJ]

Cut the end off that attaches to the T case bracket.
Thread it with a die nut.
Thread on a ball and socket joint from the parts store.
Bolt it back on with a jam nut and a nylock nut.

This should allow you to adjust the length as well.

Have a picture you can post?

[dumprat]

Sorry. No pic. i haven't had any trouble with my shifter, but I have used this method on lots of other linkage problems with great results.