P38 vs Disco II

[DreamingOfExpeditions]

Ok dcar. I'm game. Make the argument for D2 v. LR3. My needs are the same above. $15k is still what I'd put in to the whole thing total. Bumpers, RTT, racks etc. included.

[dcwhybrew]

Well let me re-qualify my statements.

I have a family of 5, most likely for the next 3-4 years it would be me and the oldest boy. Wife will not camp. She doesn't do it, and I aint making her. I don't go to the nail salon because she likes it either, so no biggie for me. If the twins (1.5 years as of now) come, it'll be for the day, then home with Momma. The Doberman too. Dobermans don't camp, it's beneath them, as there is no bed or climate control. I live in the North East, so initially it'll be weekend trips.

I am a tinkerer. I fear nothing mechanical. Even Rovers (Murphy will probably strike me down for this!) Worse comes to worse with the P38 I'll make it a diesel ala Redrover. I also have an affliction for exotic vehicles. This would not be my daily driver, but a project car, that theoretically could be passed onto the oldest boy when his time comes. I'm not buying new, or lightly used. I've got a cash budget, but just like everything, it's limited. These two vehicles are just about in that range, taking into account ancillaries, rebuilds, failures and the like.

I am also an avid fly fisherman. This would be the fishing wagon too. Here in the north east there is an advantage to a vehicle the size of p38 or Disco II. There are roads I could fish from that I would not be nearly as comfortable driving a Burb up, or my likely turning around on. Plus when the day comes, that all three kids want to go, it's a great time to build a trailer right?

So on a side by side comparison, not whether or not to, what are the advantages? My goal for a vehicle is something that I can scratch the paint on. Get muddy inside and out. take for a day fishing or weekend camping, and not have to worry about crapping it up. Wash and wear so to speak.

Is there markedly more space in a P38? Is the Disco II that much more reliable? Just looking for some insight from those that have either, or maybe both?

Dreaming!

Just for clarification, Redrover has a Range Rover Classic, not a P38 Range Rover. P38s were the 2nd generation Range Rover. You may know that, but I just wanted to be sure. I couldnt tell if your reference to Redrover was to his Range Rover or his diesel engine. Speaking of diesels, a conversion in a P38 will be a PITA and expensive. If youre going to spend that much, then get the LR3.

Otherwise, heed the advice from everyone else who has replied. Get the D2 over the P38, especially if you're going out in the back country. Yes, there are people who wheel their P38s. They are capable, however they are just more trouble prone. You should keep doing the research. There are many LR bulletin boards, so join them and just do a search. Rangerovers.net will tell you all you need to know about the Range Rover models. Honestly, I have owned D1s, D2s, RR Classics, P38s, and now LR3s. Get the LR3 and sell whatever else you're driving. You be glad you did in the long run and your wife wont get angry with you when you're constantly buying parts or taking the car to the shop.

[drewdub]

Is the LR3 substantially more reliable than a well sorted DII?

I am looking into picking up a 2004 DII but he prices of LR3s are tempting. However, all the electronic aspects of the LR3 vs. the relatively basic nature of the DII is something I cannot ignore...

What can one expect owning a LR3 at around 80-90k?

Thanks

[spikemd]

I'll chime in as a P38 supporter. I love my P38 and it has been reliable and a pleasure to drive. I have kept up on all the maintenance and it hasn't given me any trouble and (knock on wood) it doesn't leak. There are a lot of P38 bashers out there and 10 years ago there were a lot of reasons to bash them...BECMs, EAS issues, HEVAC issues, leaking o-rings, airsprings/compressors, etc. There are a few modifications you can do to take most of your headaches off the table. To the horror of many owners on rangerovers.net, I will be converting from EAS air suspension to springs int he next few months. It comes down to reliability and the biggest crutch was the air suspension. If it blows, you are out of luck. (but for a car on the street, it drives like a dream and with simple maintenance, the eas is servicable and reliable) I just don't want to get stuck in the middle of Death Valley 100s of miles from pavement with a busted air spring.

That being said, I was originally going to buy a disco... until I drove a P38. The interior is so much nicer, in my opinion and I feel it is a nicer truck. Interior volume is about the same, actually a bit less when you consider the rake on the rear of the P38 while the disco is essentially vertical.

As far as engines... come on! They have the same 4.0/4.6 as the disco, so I don't know why it takes more heat in this category. The transfer case is different with four wheel traction control on the 1999 and newer P38s. The 04 has the locking diff, which the P38 does not have. But I have crawled up some trails with my P38 that amazed some.

Other electronic issues were the BECM or main body computer. Basically, all the interior/exterior electronic come to one main computer. In theory, a good idea because it eliminates a lot wiring and redundant system, but the early models were plagued with issues. I have not heard of the same issues with the later models (1999 and newer). Just be careful that you don go crossing 3 foot rivers with the doors open. The P38 actually has double sealed doors for excellent water control when compared with the disco.

There is definitely more aftermarket support for the discos with lots to choose from. Not so much with the P38, but the basics are out there. I have had to scour craigslist and ebay to find my goodies (axle guards, roof rack, winch tray, ladder, custom sliders, etc).

Drive both and see which truck calls to you.

Don't be afraid of the P38 with the wealth of knowledge on rangerovers.net to fix any issue that may come up. For every P38 issue, there is also a disco issue. Nowadays, you can get a compressor rebuild kit for $30 instead a new compressor for $1500. My P38 is easy to work on. Prices for parts are basically the same.

Only buy a newer (1999-2002) model though and get the 4.6. Bosch electronics, 4 wheel traction control and other electrical glitches fixed. More power for the same gas mileage. Most of my trips are with another P38 that is a 4.0 and I usually get better gas mileage.

It comes down to money when you consider an LR3. (they are asking WAY too much for that 04 disco by the way. you can find them for $8) The LR3 is a great vehicle and very capable in stock form or with a simple 2 inch electronic lift. Just throw some offroad tires on and you can go. But parts, maintenance and accessories are a lot more expensive. Figure out your total budget and what you want to do with the vehicle. If it is just for trips and trails, don't blow your load on the purchase price. Buy an older vehicle and modify it to be reliable and have all the goodies you want. My P38 is going to be just a trail rig within the next year, but I knew that when I purchased it. Spend your money on trips and gas, fridge, tent and things that will make your camping a better experience.

Some pics for you of our P38s in Moab and Death Valley:

dv12_d1_goler_p38.jpg

moab2011_ehill_rgb_artic.jpg

and an LR3 at the same obstacle just for fun..
dv12_d1_goler_suttle.jpg


let the P38 bashing continue...

[Daryl]

(they are asking WAY too much for that 04 disco by the way. you can find them for $8)

I was going to mention this. Comparing an LR3 to a grossly overpriced DII is not terribly useful.

[rijosho]

I was going to mention this. Comparing an LR3 to a grossly overpriced DII is not terribly useful.

Haha, it's what popped up on the local CL for a 2004 DII. There have been a ton listed in the $11-14k range - just comparing for my argument that for a few k$ more you can get an LR3, which I think is useful. Looking today, there are a few around $8k, but the cheapest 2004 SE7 I could find was $11k on a quick search locally.

[spikemd]

I don't recommend buying any rover from a dealer. They are usually trade-ins or someone looking to dump a problem vehicle. Buy it from the owner where you can get a sense of his/her commitment to the vehicle and maintenance records.

Don't be persuaded by price either. The dealers price them ridiculously high and some owners price really low. Price is not an indicator of quality when it comes to rovers. I looked at many P38s and discos before I found mine with some sellers wanted $4k more than what I payed and those trucks needed a ton of work to be done.

Be patient and do your homework as the common issues with each truck you look at.

[spikemd]

quick buyers guide someone put together for P38:

http://www.mez.co.uk/p38.html

[DreamingOfExpeditions]

Awesome SpikeMD just the kind of feedback I was looking for. I don't plan on much rock crawling here in the east. Mostly a trail rig for boondocking and fishing.

[RoverDude]

A customer of mine has a completely outfitted P38. Includes Hannibal roof rack, sliders, front bumper with winch, Hella 4000 HIDs, etc. He's asking $6500. With your extra coin you could get her tip top and have some change for future repairs & maintenance.