Problems with Sunsaver SS-10 PWM controller & vehicle voltage regulator

[WideAngleWandering]

I'm going to call Morning Star and see what they have to say.

If I start getting creative with the wiring, I think I would need an SPST "normally on" relay to test the proposed hack, yes?

[dwh]

If the SunSaver was jacking around the regulator, it would have started Day One.

That regulator is too dumb and simple to "get confused".

But, you stated that you "assume" the voltage regulator is set to a lower voltage that the SunSaver.
I doubt that.
Here's a bunch of voltage regulators:

http://www.0086parts.com/auto/product/electric.pdf

Most of the internal regulators seem to have a set point of 14.5v, with a few 14.4v and 14.6v.
Most of the externals for Toyota seem to have a set point of 14.1v.

So, it's possible that the SunSaver and the voltage regulator are sort of dancing around each other - both trying to nail that 14.1v set point.

You should probably be using 14.4v on the SunSaver instead of 14.1v anyway (depending on the battery), and that might clear up the problem by putting a little distance between them, voltagely (yea, I just made that up) speaking.


But, it's bloody hard to provide any pinpoint answers without the DETAILS.
"Early 80's Toyota" just don't cut it.

WHAT truck?
This, that or the other? 82? 83? 84?

WHAT voltage regulator?
Nippon-Denso 220? 229b? Warp Systems Turbo Hydra XB-37 with quantum flux coil?

WHAT battery?
I'm guessing sealed. Sealed what? Flooded? AGM? Zero Point vacuum 4th dimension space compression doodlewanger?

[4x4junkie]

I'm going to call Morning Star and see what they have to say.

If I start getting creative with the wiring, I think I would need an SPST "normally on" relay to test the proposed hack, yes?

SPST "normally-closed" relays are a rare breed. You'd have better luck finding a SPDT relay with whatever contact rating you need and simply leave the "normally-open" side of it unused.

[WideAngleWandering]

The charging system is custom. 3 phase, 4 amp draw rotor, 55amp output. The voltage regulator is a 4-wire solid state GR540B.

AGM battery.

The Sunsaver has a simple switch to flip between sealed & flooded batteries, determining the set point. It's set to sealed.

[dwh]

So, a Ford regulator. Looks like, depending on who made it, most are set to 14.2v with a couple of 14.3v and 14.4v here and there.


AGM battery...

Guess I'll have to ballpark that one. The Sears Platinum is, as I understand it, a re-branded Odyssey. The Odyssey tech manual:

http://www.odysseybattery.com/docume...1_0411_000.pdf

Recommends a bulk to 14.7v and then up to 8 hours of absorb at 14.7v, then drop to 13.6v float (Page 15).


Optima recommends different specs depending on what charging method you are using:

http://www.optimabatteries.com/produ...t/charging.php

For instance, in Cyclic Applications (such as solar) they recommend basically the same 14.7v bulk and absorb as Odyssey.


Trojan also recommends 14.7v. Lifeline (Concorde) however, recommends a 14.4v bulk.

So, if your AGM is any of the above (and, probably any other AGM made by anyone else), then setting your SunSaver to 14.4v bulk instead of 14.1v is probably the way to go.

[WideAngleWandering]

I don't really think the battery is relevant. My issue is the interplay between the vehicle & solar charging systems, no?

So your recommendation is to switch the sunsaver from sealed to flooded, forcing a higher set point (14.4v IIRC), despite using a sealed battery? And this will make the VR less angry?

[dwh]

Think of the "sealed" setting as a holdover from the old days. What matters is the voltage set points and the charge profile. Depending on who made your AGM battery, even 14.4v might not be high enough to be truly optimum. Good enough, and better than 14.1v, but still not perfect.

I don't know of any AGM manufacturers who recommend *less* than 14.4v bulk. Or, at least, can't think of any off the top of my head.

So, yes, I'd run it at 14.4v.

As to whether that will have any effect on the problem with the indicator light. I can't say. That problem could be caused by any number of other things - loose connections, a dodgy fuse or fusible link, alternator going bad.

Generally, two different charging systems hooked up to the same battery do not cause problems for each other. They each do their own monitoring, and each supply power when they detect a need for it.

If the voltage regulator takes the battery up to 14.2v and the sun comes out, then the SunSaver will see that 14.2v is not high enough, and go ahead and start charging.

If the SunSaver takes the battery up to 14.4v and the voltage regulator is set for 14.2v, then the voltage regulator will decide the battery is charged and not turn on the alternator.

If the voltage drops below 14.2v, then they'll both be supplying power until the battery gets to 14.2v and the voltage regulator shuts down the alternator, and then the SunSaver will stop charging when it decides the battery is full.

[WideAngleWandering]

The alternator and the wiring are all good. I completely replaced everything related to the charging system - I know every inch of it at this point and I'm confident that the wiring is solid.

[wrcsixeight]

When the light illuminates, what is the battery voltage?

If you have a clamp on DC digital ammeter you can at least get some idea which charging source is doing what, and maybe bust out the electrical tape for the annoying idiot light if the battery is being charged properly when the sun is out, or not.

I have a late 80's dodge Van whose alternator field is controlled by the engine computer, and so far the MPPT solar controller and the Van's VR work fine together. If the alternator does not have the voltage above my solar acceptance voltage, the solar contributes to alternator current. If the voltage is above the solar setpoint, or 2 hours have passed at acceptance and the solar is in float mode, then the solar goes open circuit and contributes nothing.