Problems with Sunsaver SS-10 PWM controller & vehicle voltage regulator

I don't really think the battery is relevant. My issue is the interplay between the vehicle & solar charging systems, no?

So your recommendation is to switch the sunsaver from sealed to flooded, forcing a higher set point (14.4v IIRC), despite using a sealed battery? And this will make the VR less angry?
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Think of the "sealed" setting as a holdover from the old days. What matters is the voltage set points and the charge profile. Depending on who made your AGM battery, even 14.4v might not be high enough to be truly optimum. Good enough, and better than 14.1v, but still not perfect.

I don't know of any AGM manufacturers who recommend *less* than 14.4v bulk. Or, at least, can't think of any off the top of my head.

So, yes, I'd run it at 14.4v.

As to whether that will have any effect on the problem with the indicator light. I can't say. That problem could be caused by any number of other things - loose connections, a dodgy fuse or fusible link, alternator going bad.

Generally, two different charging systems hooked up to the same battery do not cause problems for each other. They each do their own monitoring, and each supply power when they detect a need for it.

If the voltage regulator takes the battery up to 14.2v and the sun comes out, then the SunSaver will see that 14.2v is not high enough, and go ahead and start charging.

If the SunSaver takes the battery up to 14.4v and the voltage regulator is set for 14.2v, then the voltage regulator will decide the battery is charged and not turn on the alternator.

If the voltage drops below 14.2v, then they'll both be supplying power until the battery gets to 14.2v and the voltage regulator shuts down the alternator, and then the SunSaver will stop charging when it decides the battery is full.
 
The alternator and the wiring are all good. I completely replaced everything related to the charging system - I know every inch of it at this point and I'm confident that the wiring is solid.
 

wrcsixeight

Adventurer
When the light illuminates, what is the battery voltage?

If you have a clamp on DC digital ammeter you can at least get some idea which charging source is doing what, and maybe bust out the electrical tape for the annoying idiot light if the battery is being charged properly when the sun is out, or not.

I have a late 80's dodge Van whose alternator field is controlled by the engine computer, and so far the MPPT solar controller and the Van's VR work fine together. If the alternator does not have the voltage above my solar acceptance voltage, the solar contributes to alternator current. If the voltage is above the solar setpoint, or 2 hours have passed at acceptance and the solar is in float mode, then the solar goes open circuit and contributes nothing.
 
Thread revival. It's still happening and I'm about to add an additional panel and upgrade the charge controller, so this is on my mind.

Updates:
  • Tried switching the morning star from sealed to flooded and vice versa. No change.
  • The voltage gauge spikes to ~14v in synch with the pulsing lights in the dash

The only way to get the pulsing to stop is to put some electrical load on the system (i.e. blower motor) or to run the battery down before starting her up (tailigating with the stereo going).
 

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