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Thread: 240 amp H1 alternator for classic range rover

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Antichrist View Post
    I'm not sure what you're saying exactly, but even on an old Series Rover with a 35a generator all you'd need to upgrade is the alternator to battery (or fuse box) cable.
    Light gauge low strand wires, non sealed connections, precious few grounds and a dynamo!!
    Need I say more.

    Yes, you are right . I suppose you could bypass all of the original crap. But it's foolish to keep the original harness. I kept the original dash board and switches. I just used superior wire,soldered ( no cheap and nasty Lucass crimps) all connections and used weather pack relays for anything that carried any type of load. Not mention lots of grounds!! Lucas, prince of darkness wasn't conjured up for a laugh, it's based on fact.

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    Last edited by blue bomber; 07-29-2012 at 12:56 AM.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by blue bomber View Post
    Light gauge low strand wires, non sealed connections, precious few grounds and a dynamo!!
    That may be, and someone might want to upgrade all that for various reasons, but using a high output alternator won't have any bearing on the vehicle wiring, aside from the alternator to battery cable.
    If nothing is drawing 35a, it's not suddenly going to start just because the vehicle had a high amp alternator installed. That was what I was saying.
    Tom Rowe

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  3. #13
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    Well if you put a higher amp alt in a rig there are several conditions that can draw more than the 35 amps. A low battery will draw more than 35 amps, or jump starting another vehicle etc. lots of ways that a new larger alt could over tax the stock wireing.

    To each there own.. I recommend upgrading the wireing when installing a high amp alt.

    Just my .02
    Make your time count "AS YOU CAN'T COUNT ON TIME"

  4. #14
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    Even if you're operating a 450A electric winch, tell me where that 240amp is going to go, other than through the alt->battery cable (which I said should be upgraded), that would require you to upgrade your vehicle wiring.
    You could install a ten billion amp alternator and that 5 watt tail light is still only going to draw 5 watts.

    For the OP, if I'm reading the ETM correctly the stock alternator to fuse box wire is 15mm2 which is midway between #6 and #4. So using the smaller #6 as the figure, at full alternator output there would be a volt drop of 0.38v which is acceptable (I'm estimating a 4' cable length).
    #4 would give a volt drop of 0.29v which might be worth going to if there are loads often requiring the full 240a output of the alternator.
    Of course, these are new wire figures. If your existing alternator to fuse box cable is corroded, then the volt drop will be greater so it would be good changing it if it is. But you could go with an OE cable without issue. Not that I would because you can go larger aftermarket for less money than OE.
    Last edited by Antichrist; 07-29-2012 at 01:13 PM.
    Tom Rowe

    Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
    in places even more inaccessible.

    62 88 reg
    67 NADA x2
    74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
    95 D1 5-speed
    95 D90 5-speed
    97 D1 Automatic

  5. #15
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    over the years i learned one thing about land rover owners they love to cryyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy. and stick with the original part, even tho it can be junk.

    my rover is 100% not original em i happy? hell yes i am happy . 240 amp alternator kicks a.ss and rover runs beautiful, .

    we am not going to spend 300 bucks on some Lucas crap and wait 5 days in the middle of nowhere when i can get my good old American part and done deal.

    enjoy your rovers .
    1989 red rover sold ,
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yf9FPs40VUM

    GOD BLESS AMERICA

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by REDROVER View Post
    over the years i learned one thing about land rover owners they love to cryyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy. and stick with the original part, even tho it can be junk.
    Not me. I've always used other parts if I can find something that works. The decision is usually based on some balance of price, availability and level of modifications needed to use it.
    Tom Rowe

    Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
    in places even more inaccessible.

    62 88 reg
    67 NADA x2
    74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
    95 D1 5-speed
    95 D90 5-speed
    97 D1 Automatic

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Antichrist View Post
    Not me. I've always used other parts if I can find something that works. The decision is usually based on some balance of price, availability and level of modifications needed to use it.
    that's what i think too. if it fits, and price is right then its made for land rover. we already know that land rover is not the best engineered truck ,so if we can put something else that works better then why not
    1989 red rover sold ,
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yf9FPs40VUM

    GOD BLESS AMERICA

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by REDROVER View Post
    if it fits, and price is right then its made for land rover.
    That's pretty much all LR did when they made the trucks. Most of the parts not specific for the trucks came out of parts bins for other vehicles. Morris Marina door handles on your Range Rover and Discos anyone??
    Ian Gregory
    Current LR Stable: 97 D90 ST #1008, 94 D90 SW #1887 (Project), 98 D1 LSE
    Memories of: 84 RRC Vogue 4dr, 93 RRC Vogue SE, 84 Ninety 2.5NA SW, 86 Ninety 2.5TD TC, 96 D1 SD

  9. #19
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    Love this thread. FWIW - Jeeps are the same way. A conglomeration of parts that results in a pretty capable whole, but with some prudent upgrades can be substantially better.

    I just upgraded the primary wiring on my 2005 Jeep LJ while doing a battery re-fit/upgrade. One thing I now feel more strongly about than ever is that the OEM "fusible link" which is between the alternator and the PDC/battery should be replaced with an appropriately sized ANL fuse. If you substitute the word "fusible" with "burnablewhenoverloaded", you will see what I mean. Then look at where that consumable component (an undersized section of wire) is located. On a Jeep is it bundled in with and near other primary and secondary wiring. Collateral damage if you overload the charge wire is guaranteed.

    I have personally driven a vehicle that suffered a catastrophic dead short in the primary wire from the alternator that resulted in the fusible link doing its job. Luckily the short was quickly found, and the fusible link was replaced, and collateral damage was minimal. The light show from the arcing (it was at night) was impressive! And I was driving the vehicle at the time! It was an old Dodge van, BTW.

    Just some semi-relevant ramblings from a Jeep guy. Carry on.
    Jim & Jean
    Touring the world and life together since 1981


    “It occurred to me then that half the confusion in the world comes from not knowing how little we need.”- Admiral Robert E. Byrd, 1938

  10. #20
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    So is the H1 it has parts from Ford GM and DODGE. not to mention seats are from German city bus and radiators are made by BEAR same company that's makes for BMW. Or MBZ

    overall I think land rover did pretty good Job on parts but the problem is more aperant when u drive true some town that almost don't see land rovers. Now try to find parts there lol. Good luck we have to be creative then. One thing also noticed if u need parts and u call them most of the time they don't have it of it will many days before they get it. So it's the best to take the damaged part in and tell them plz match with another part. And your best friend is always. GOOGLE. LOL

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