I don't "get" these rattle can paint jobs. If you use enough paint to actually cover properly (rattle cans do NOT cover well) you've spent as much money as you would have for some cheaper real automotive paint and a harbor freight spray gun. With just a bit of practice and an air compressor you're going to end up with a better, thicker, more durable paint job.
Rustoleum paint jobs
- Thread starter LaOutbackTrail
- Start date
Bull ******** is all I have to say to that. I was going to do it the other way... it was going to cost a couple hundred bucks more.... I even borrowed the compressor and bought the harbor freight POS HVLP sprayer. It cost me less than $100 to paint the truck. And I used lots of paint.
If it was going to cost you a couple hundred bucks more you either didn't put much paint on with spray cans or didn't know where to get automotive paint at a decent price. Yes, if you go buy a couple quarts of mid or high level Sikkens or DuPont it will definitely cost you a few hundred more. But even thinning out quart cans of rustoleum and spraying them is going to put down a better finish and more material than a spray can.
To do any sort of proper wet sand you're going to need a WHOLE LOT of spray cans, and that's my point: a finish with enough material on it to look decent and/or last is going to take a lot more money in spray cans than in paint cans.
Also, it's pretty hilarious that you can describe a harbor freight HVLP gun as a "POS" when you're comparing it to a plastic spray nozzle. While it's by no means a professional quality gun it is so far from even being able to compare with any can spray nozzle that they don't even warrant mentioning. When set up properly, kept clean and fed with an appropriate amount of air it puts down acceptable quality paint. I've painted with one several times yet spent mot of my time painting with professional HVLP guns. If money is no object the choice is clear. When when it is, I'll take something that does 90% of the same job for 10% of the price.
soonenough
Explorer
I see your point here. I recently painted a camper shell for my truck, and I spent roughly $400 just on consumable materials using automotive-grade 2k urethane paints (Nason primer, PPG base, and Advantage clear). It adds up pretty fast with all the paints, reducers, activators, filler, degreaser, tack rags, sandpaper, masking paper, tape, etc etc.
You can buy Rustoleum Professional in quarts and even gallons. At Lowe's here, a quart is $9.xx and a gallon is $27.xx (compared to $5.xx for a 15-oz rattle-can); they're not stocked in all colors, but many of the basic colors. By spraying the lower cost Rustoleum paint with a cheap gun instead of a rattle can nozzle, you can get a nice-looking paint job for relatively cheap (much cheaper than using automotive-grade urethanes). A gallon of rustoleum paint goes a LONG way, especially after its reduced. That's what I'm doing right now for a set of sliders. And the best part is that touch-ups can be done with a rattle can since it's the same paint.
Nice-looking paint job btw...I've always found something cool about rattle can jobs for some reason :sombrero:
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I guess I should spill the beans.
And I laid down 8 coats, sanding between every two coats, with 800 then 1000. The rattle cans with 25% more for free is what I ordered from Lowes, at $3.77 each. Rustoleum Khaki, which is not offered in the qt or gal (believe me I would have gone that route).
Paint turned out fine, but my sanding imperfections (for getting the old paint off) did not... Couldn't see them that well with the primer (primer laid down poorly from rattle can) the ones I did see I tried skimming with bondo, but in a 110* garage, the bondo dried before I could skim two spots... and added more work because I had to lay it quickly. Even tried mixing it with less catalyst. Oh and I did spray a couple coats of primer with an HVLP sprayer, and it laid down fine, but wayyyy too much overspray with my harbor freight gun. That was the point where I decided against going with automotive paint, btw.
I still can't figure out why people try to barge in on a thread that asks several specific questions, only to be cynical and attempt to convert. If I had a 1972 Mustang Mach 1 that I intended to use as a show car, your G.D. right I'm going to put a proper paint job on the thing. But for a trail rig that will get scratched, beat, chipped and hammered, Rustoleum is a viable option for those who do not have the compressors, sprayers, or knowledge of how to use the equipment. With rattle cans, all you need is masking tape, newspaper, sand paper, a quality respirator (I paid almost as much for the respirator as I did for paint btw!), elbow grease, time, and lower expectations.
And I laid down 8 coats, sanding between every two coats, with 800 then 1000. The rattle cans with 25% more for free is what I ordered from Lowes, at $3.77 each. Rustoleum Khaki, which is not offered in the qt or gal (believe me I would have gone that route).
Paint turned out fine, but my sanding imperfections (for getting the old paint off) did not... Couldn't see them that well with the primer (primer laid down poorly from rattle can) the ones I did see I tried skimming with bondo, but in a 110* garage, the bondo dried before I could skim two spots... and added more work because I had to lay it quickly. Even tried mixing it with less catalyst. Oh and I did spray a couple coats of primer with an HVLP sprayer, and it laid down fine, but wayyyy too much overspray with my harbor freight gun. That was the point where I decided against going with automotive paint, btw.
I still can't figure out why people try to barge in on a thread that asks several specific questions, only to be cynical and attempt to convert. If I had a 1972 Mustang Mach 1 that I intended to use as a show car, your G.D. right I'm going to put a proper paint job on the thing. But for a trail rig that will get scratched, beat, chipped and hammered, Rustoleum is a viable option for those who do not have the compressors, sprayers, or knowledge of how to use the equipment. With rattle cans, all you need is masking tape, newspaper, sand paper, a quality respirator (I paid almost as much for the respirator as I did for paint btw!), elbow grease, time, and lower expectations.
Because some people have been there, tried that, and realized the mistake. Those people can't possibly be "barging in" as it was posted in a public forum. Those people are trying to help others with the benefit of their experience. But some other people just want to fight over it and/or choose the set of facts and prices that best fits the view they already hold of the situation.
Like anything else, running a paint gun takes some practice. If you are worried about overspray it's either adjusted incorrectly or you can use a detail gun to go panel by panel with less overspray and need for masking.
The point is that with a bit of research and practice you can lay down more material (enough to make something look good, as you'll have enough to properly sand) for way cheaper than you can buy that same amount of material in spray cans. But again, it does take some research and practice. You need to learn thing like how to use a guide coat when you're sanding (which would have solved your issue of not being able to see scratches). You need to figure out that you can pick up a gallon of pre mixed automotive paint for under $50 if you actually talk to your local paint guys and ask them to give you a call if there was a mis-order or incorrect mix that meets the criteria of colors you'd want to use. These things and more are things some people would be perfectly happy to tell you about.
In the end, the most important thing for pait to do is to form a protective coating. When it's a "trail rig that will get scratched, beat, chipped and hammered", thin material application (as well a single stage paint that doesn't require activator) is going to leave you with a finish that gets damaged exceptionally easily and fails to perform it's most important function: protection. You'll find out about this first hand over the next few weeks and months if you use the truck the way you say you do.
I'm no sure you "get" my point...
I wasn't asking about automotive paints vs Rustoleum. My choice was made. My question was whether to leave it, polish it, or put clear over the top of what I chose to use, Rustoleum.
Relax, have a beer or five.
I wasn't asking about automotive paints vs Rustoleum. My choice was made. My question was whether to leave it, polish it, or put clear over the top of what I chose to use, Rustoleum.
This is my favorite line. Paint's primary function is to keep the metal from rusting, its up to the user to decide if it needs to be 'pretty' or not. Objective complete.
Relax, have a beer or five.
Dgurley2000
Adventurer
Scott - might have missed it in your threads - what precipitated a new paint job? Were there issues with the original paint or were you just looking for something different?
David,
The paint on the hood and roof had oxidized and practically disappeared down to the metal in several spots. That, coupled with the weird bluish green had me yearning for a different color.
Dgurley2000
Adventurer
Scott - it looks good from the 20' view. $200 is not a lot to risk. Might wear better that expected. If not, you can always use your experience and make it better the second time.
Mark Harley
Expedition Leader
I rattle can painted both of my trailers.
Black is forgiving on the frame and parts. It touches up easy and looks great even close.
My other project was to urban cammo the fenders in red, white, grey, and black.
It is unique and looks good.
Black is forgiving on the frame and parts. It touches up easy and looks great even close.
My other project was to urban cammo the fenders in red, white, grey, and black.
It is unique and looks good.
Attachments
AA1PR
Disabled Explorer
the truck has came out nice
for his needs it works out fine, however your phrase of 20 feet reminds me of a saying around here is 50/50 "from 50 feet & 50 mph no one can tell the difference"
the only thing I would have done differently is a base coat of POR15 or rust shield to seal the bare metal just in case
Thats probably not necessary as they do not salt the roads here. Not a lick o' rust on the rig.