Rustoleum paint jobs

[LaOutbackTrail]

I guess I should spill the beans.






And I laid down 8 coats, sanding between every two coats, with 800 then 1000. The rattle cans with 25% more for free is what I ordered from Lowes, at $3.77 each. Rustoleum Khaki, which is not offered in the qt or gal (believe me I would have gone that route).

Paint turned out fine, but my sanding imperfections (for getting the old paint off) did not... Couldn't see them that well with the primer (primer laid down poorly from rattle can) the ones I did see I tried skimming with bondo, but in a 110* garage, the bondo dried before I could skim two spots... and added more work because I had to lay it quickly. Even tried mixing it with less catalyst. Oh and I did spray a couple coats of primer with an HVLP sprayer, and it laid down fine, but wayyyy too much overspray with my harbor freight gun. That was the point where I decided against going with automotive paint, btw.

I still can't figure out why people try to barge in on a thread that asks several specific questions, only to be cynical and attempt to convert. If I had a 1972 Mustang Mach 1 that I intended to use as a show car, your G.D. right I'm going to put a proper paint job on the thing. But for a trail rig that will get scratched, beat, chipped and hammered, Rustoleum is a viable option for those who do not have the compressors, sprayers, or knowledge of how to use the equipment. With rattle cans, all you need is masking tape, newspaper, sand paper, a quality respirator (I paid almost as much for the respirator as I did for paint btw!), elbow grease, time, and lower expectations.

[Daryl]

I still can't figure out why people try to barge in on a thread that asks several specific questions

Because some people have been there, tried that, and realized the mistake. Those people can't possibly be "barging in" as it was posted in a public forum. Those people are trying to help others with the benefit of their experience. But some other people just want to fight over it and/or choose the set of facts and prices that best fits the view they already hold of the situation.

Like anything else, running a paint gun takes some practice. If you are worried about overspray it's either adjusted incorrectly or you can use a detail gun to go panel by panel with less overspray and need for masking.

The point is that with a bit of research and practice you can lay down more material (enough to make something look good, as you'll have enough to properly sand) for way cheaper than you can buy that same amount of material in spray cans. But again, it does take some research and practice. You need to learn thing like how to use a guide coat when you're sanding (which would have solved your issue of not being able to see scratches). You need to figure out that you can pick up a gallon of pre mixed automotive paint for under $50 if you actually talk to your local paint guys and ask them to give you a call if there was a mis-order or incorrect mix that meets the criteria of colors you'd want to use. These things and more are things some people would be perfectly happy to tell you about.

In the end, the most important thing for pait to do is to form a protective coating. When it's a "trail rig that will get scratched, beat, chipped and hammered", thin material application (as well a single stage paint that doesn't require activator) is going to leave you with a finish that gets damaged exceptionally easily and fails to perform it's most important function: protection. You'll find out about this first hand over the next few weeks and months if you use the truck the way you say you do.

[LaOutbackTrail]

I'm no sure you "get" my point...

I wasn't asking about automotive paints vs Rustoleum. My choice was made. My question was whether to leave it, polish it, or put clear over the top of what I chose to use, Rustoleum.

In the end, the most important thing for pait to do is to form a protective coating.

This is my favorite line. Paint's primary function is to keep the metal from rusting, its up to the user to decide if it needs to be 'pretty' or not. Objective complete.


Relax, have a beer or five.

[Dgurley2000]

Scott - might have missed it in your threads - what precipitated a new paint job? Were there issues with the original paint or were you just looking for something different?

[LaOutbackTrail]

Scott - might have missed it in your threads - what precipitated a new paint job? Were there issues with the original paint or were you just looking for something different?

David,

The paint on the hood and roof had oxidized and practically disappeared down to the metal in several spots. That, coupled with the weird bluish green had me yearning for a different color.

[chilliwak]

Just my 2 cents worth, but I love rattle can jobs... Here is my truck before paint...

During paint.....

And after paint...

Please post any comments, positive or negative....

[Dgurley2000]

Scott - it looks good from the 20' view. $200 is not a lot to risk. Might wear better that expected. If not, you can always use your experience and make it better the second time.

[Mark Harley]

I rattle can painted both of my trailers.
Black is forgiving on the frame and parts. It touches up easy and looks great even close.
My other project was to urban cammo the fenders in red, white, grey, and black.
It is unique and looks good.

[zukrider]

Love the color! rattle can paint will be just fine!

[AA1PR]

Scott - it looks good from the 20' view. $200 is not a lot to risk. Might wear better that expected. If not, you can always use your experience and make it better the second time.

the truck has came out nice

for his needs it works out fine, however your phrase of 20 feet reminds me of a saying around here is 50/50 "from 50 feet & 50 mph no one can tell the difference"

the only thing I would have done differently is a base coat of POR15 or rust shield to seal the bare metal just in case