improving braking power on dodges

[Metcalf]

The one I last saw was a 2003. I think it was around 2001-2007ish. These where the non-diesel, non-big block trucks, 2500 series only....so I think 6.0 engine trucks?

The axle is basically a slightly modernized 10.5" 14-bolt GM center section. The center section looks 'finned' but still has the bolt on pinion bearing support. It uses your standard GM 14-bolt gears with the 3 pinion bearings. The carrier is 14-bolt 30 spline...so any of the off the shelf lockers will work. Approx 67" wide. Factory disc brakes with a drum style parking brake. 8 on 6.5. Full floating. Factory gearing was 3.73 or 4.10.

In my opinion the perfect rear axle for a 1st gen Cummins truck. If I had factory 4.10 gears I probably would have broken down and swapped on in. Having to change the D60 gears opens up a whole new can of worms for me......D70 gears, lockers, rebuild, big brakes, 35 spline outers, etc

 

[Regcabguy]

Regcabguy - How much did you have into the Pacbrake and related parts to make it all work?

Pacbrake w/labor was $1100 at the time. Smart Controller was $400 installed. I believe they have an improved design now. It worked perfectly,but requires some beefing to the internals of the auto tranny and I believe stiffer valve springs in the 12v's. My year also required a DTT Smart Controller that would automatically disengaged the eb at a chosen speed. The 12 valve guys would install a "Mystery Switch" to manually lock/unlock the torque converter. The manual guys need only depress the clutch.

Thoroughbred Diesel appears to offer a kit w/valves springs,adapter etc. Not cheap. The truck will stop. Panic stops on the freeway will no longer be a puckerbutt experience.

 

[Larry]

The axle is basically a slightly modernized 10.5" 14-bolt GM center section. The center section looks 'finned' but still has the bolt on pinion bearing support. It uses your standard GM 14-bolt gears with the 3 pinion bearings. The carrier is 14-bolt 30 spline...so any of the off the shelf lockers will work. Approx 67" wide. Factory disc brakes with a drum style parking brake. 8 on 6.5. Full floating. Factory gearing was 3.73 or 4.10.

The axle you bring up is AAM 10.5 used in GM HD trucks from 2001 to current behind 6.0L engines. Duramax and 8.1L trucks got an 11.5 but the axle hubs, disks, calipers, etc are the exact same between the two. The 10.5” is the same basic axle GM has used since 1973 although it has changed widths over the years and cooling fins were added. In 2011 the 8 lug nut pattern changed from 8 x 6.5” to 8 x 180mm. Beware of the later axles as your front Dana 60 wheels will not fit these newer GM version of the AAM axles.

Here is how you can identify a 10.5 vs. an 11.5 them by looking at the rear covers. 2003 Ram trucks are very similar.

Both the GM 2001 to current 10.5 and 11.5 have the same outers

I’ve owned a 2001 2500HD Silverado with an 8.1L since new as well as a 2005 2500HD Silverado with a 6.0L for a few years. After installing 13” drum brakes on my old K10 I don’t see where these later GM rear disks have any real braking advantage over the drums other than in weight savings. The K10 weighs more than the Silverado but yet feels much more confident when coming to a stop.

 

[ExpoMike]

That's the kind of system I need for my D70 axle. Any thoughts if this GM system would transfer over?

 

[Metcalf]

I changed to 17" wheels with the new tires.

For me, discs seem to be more fade resistant, deal with mud/dust better, etc.

That chevy disc brake system is nice. The rotors go on OVER the bearing hub, nice internal parking brake, floating caliper mount, very easy to service, lighter weight than drums, etc.

On a 2nd gen dodge you could swap in a D70 or 80 2001.5 to 2002 rear axle with factory disc brakes.

 

[rb70383]

I have a 01 2500 Ram with the D70 and drums. They never stayed adjusted. Burned through front pads quickly. Especially after doing the chevy rear wheel cylinder swap. Found a 02 D70 suregrip like mine and same gears with disc. Swapped right in excpet the parking brake cables have different ends. Still havent got new ones. A little better over the rear drums but overall much better as I dont have to adjust them all the time. When I need new tires I will get a set of the 3rd gen 17"s and swap to their bigger brakes as well. Only thing after that is convert it to 4wd. At least the ramcharger is 4wd. lol

 

[goodtimes]

I have a 01 2500 Ram with the D70 and drums. They never stayed adjusted. Burned through front pads quickly. Especially after doing the chevy rear wheel cylinder swap. Found a 02 D70 suregrip like mine and same gears with disc. Swapped right in excpet the parking brake cables have different ends. Still havent got new ones. A little better over the rear drums but overall much better as I dont have to adjust them all the time. When I need new tires I will get a set of the 3rd gen 17"s and swap to their bigger brakes as well. Only thing after that is convert it to 4wd. At least the ramcharger is 4wd. lol

I had similar adjustment problems on my '99. I also had a self-adjuster that liked to loosen up over time and fall out if I didn't keep the brakes adjusted (then it would rattle around inside the drum).

I ended up buying two self adjuster repair kits (consisting of the lever, self-adjuster, & associated springs) from Napa for something like $15/ea, combined with a new spring set (another $6 - $8 for each side, replacing the "rest" of the springs & hardware), and a new set of shoes. So basically, I replaced everything except the backing plates, drums, & wheel cylinders. It's not perfect - but damn, what a difference. For the price - it's worth trying if you find yourself constantly adjusting the rear brakes.

 

[rb70383]

I had similar adjustment problems on my '99. I also had a self-adjuster that liked to loosen up over time and fall out if I didn't keep the brakes adjusted (then it would rattle around inside the drum).

I ended up buying two self adjuster repair kits (consisting of the lever, self-adjuster, & associated springs) from Napa for something like $15/ea, combined with a new spring set (another $6 - $8 for each side, replacing the "rest" of the springs & hardware), and a new set of shoes. So basically, I replaced everything except the backing plates, drums, & wheel cylinders. It's not perfect - but damn, what a difference. For the price - it's worth trying if you find yourself constantly adjusting the rear brakes.

That is good news. Everytime I remembered to get those parts they didnt have them. On one cross country towing trip, the rear axle seal starting leaking. Got a small growl from the rear end. Moving from AZ to WA. I had to do something and having no luck in finding a rear disc for my truck, Over a course of 2 yrs. I looked one last time. Found one at a auto dismantlers. $600 was worth it instead of tryign to rebuild the axle and be stuck with those drums. However I think I will replace the hardware for use when i put the 8 lugs under my ramcharger.