Which size Hi-Lift to buy....does size matter?

[4x4junkie]

My thought is if your vehicle is stock or only mildly modified, the 48" jack should be fine.
If your vehicle is built up considerably (especially if it has a flexible suspension), then you'll probably want the 60" (I have a 48" one and have had it run out on me a couple times).

[High_Country]

Well, maybe I have been swayed. It sounds like if I can verify that cargo space won't be an issue (either on the roof rack, or swing away, or inside) then the 60 is the way to go.

I'll do some checking. Thanks again for all the input.

[rb70383]

I have the 48" havent used it to unstick myself yet. So cant say, but an option is to get the tire lift strap to get the tire off the ground then block the axle in order to change the tire. Or like said a bottle jack is another excellent option.

Side note what is a good lube for a hi-lift?

[High_Country]

Good point - I could see the wheel lift accessory coming in very handy depending on the predicament and placement of the vehicle. One wouldn't have to get the jack near as 'stretched out' to get the wheel off the ground.

[JIMBO]

Use the 48", stored inside and if you have trouble with heighth, just "truss" the axle end you're working on--works ona jeep-

JIMBO

[I Leak Oil]

Most of my uses with the hi-lift have been to get the frame up of something or to shift the rear\front end sideways, not to simply lift a wheel. The wheel attachment doesn't work on my truck anyway. That's what the simple bottle jack is for.

[762X39]

If you have something bigger than a Jeep, the 48" is the way to go. If you have something small like a Jeep, the 60" can be used but really, there are better ways to go. I have a 48" Jackall (Canadian interpretation of the Hi-lift) that has been in use for the last 20 or so years on my Niva, my F150 and my Unimog. The jack can be amazingly dangerous which is why I think the 48" is your safest bet. If it is not tall enough, there is something seriously wrong with your strategy (a ratchet strap can limit suspension travel for almost no effort).

[82fb]

I have seen a guy (drunk) almost lose his nose on the upswing of the handle. Lots of blood, but I think he was gonna be fine... I found out by accident that using a heavier gauge steel for the handle prevents it from swinging wildly on descent. Forget the size right now, but I think 1 inch black pipe is about twice as thick as the stock handle and works great. Length you need depends on the truck. My brothers k5 on 40's must have a 60 inch jack in almost every situation, but you can carry a few 10x10x4 wood blocks to stack if needed.

[drgnhrt1979]

All good info to chew on... when I had my Jeep, I was gonna get the black 60" extream, glad I didnt now. Never did get a HiLift, but I will get me one with my next 4x4. I am still siding on the side of the 60" though. My reason is that I am not worried about space to store it, and I would rather have the longer one and not need it than to need it and not have it, causing me spend the money twice.

[reds12t]

I have the 60" Hi-Lift X-Treme, and while the extra length has come in handy a few times, it can be hard to find a space for it in/on the vehicle. I considered moving to a 48" jack to alleviate some of the storage difficulty, until I found a neat case called Jack Guard. It has helped my storge problems by allowing me to stack bags, camp chairs, or whatever on top of the case and still slide the jack in and out. I have found that it has enough space to include the winch-clamp-spreader attachment found on the X-Treme jacks, a Hi-Lift repair kit, and a few tools inside with the jack. While I don't store my jack outside of the vehicle, if you do, this case will help keep it clean and minimize the stuck/frozen mechanism problem mentioned earlier.