opintions on an older ambo, tranny, motor stuff

[MTDewX8]

Wow, 12 seems really high for the V10, but maybe I'm a little skewed since all I've researched is class c/box truck bodies with the gassers. A friend has the v10 in his class c and gets 5-8mpg depending on driving conditions, which is why I opted for something with the 7.3.

sorry will specify before it gets off topic.

I contacted a guy selling a quigley that had the 5.4 motor that got 12 mpg.

I was guessing the V10 got around that if I was lucky. so the difference between the 5.4 and V10 is minimal (I think) and would rather have the V10 over the options of gassers. I want a 7.3 as a first choice though.

[BCHauler]

It really depends on your usage. My f250 crew 4x4 has the v10 and 4.30 gears. I average 10 mpg mixed and I drive like a grandmother. On highway trips maintaining 60 mph, I've had a best tank of 13.75 mpg. The one caveat I will offer is that where I live, nothing is flat so a little better is certainly possible.

The power is nice but the mileage really wears on you if it used for everyday driving. In all honesty, I would take a 5.4 over the v10 because an idling 8 uses less fuel in traffic than an idling 10. I'm not a big power guy though.

The other thing about fords modular motors (5.4, 6.8) is that they need higher revs for power. My 6.8 really likes 3-4000rpm when I'm towing or hauling (again mostly hills and mountains). Coming from older GM v8's, those high revs have taken some getting used to.

[MTDewX8]

thanks for all your input everybody.

at this point I am will probably take any motor as long as it has a 4 wheel drive. I was going to comprimise with a 2 wd. but got talked out of it from the other half as she knows me.
as soon as I get something I will wish I had 4x4. living in Montana kinda answers that part of the question.

thanks agian all for your time of reading my post and giving your opinions.

Cheers as the search still continues

[MTDewX8]

so I talked to the owner and I mentioned my concern of the RPM's at 70 mph. I saw 3900-4k.

he said its more like 2900 cause the tach is off. if the tach is off or hooked to the wrong part could this be possible?
everything ran fine, but just going on what I have seen.

so can a tach be hooked up wrong? to give a false reading?

I only ask cause I have never hooked up a tach and such

[CodyY]

A tach has settings for 4/6/8 cyl. Either by a dial, dip switches, or snipping a wire or two. Some ignition systems require the 4 or 6 cyl setting even though they're 8 cyl. Possible, but you'd think they would've fixed that kinda crap

[MTDewX8]

well I have come full circle almost. found a 00 7.3 that was out of range. surfed and looked all over. even got an offer from a fellow member (thanks CodyY)

so talks started again for that van. has some rust which is my concern. waiting for pics. will have a dealer do a pre-impspection since I am many miles away.

but so far looking good.
E350 quigely with 200k.

so we shall see over the next few weeks if the deal goes comes to be. then I get to fly to NC and drive back to Montana. what a test drive right. cool thing is I can save on hotel this time.

just thought I would share

[MTDewX8]

pic of the day he bought it. not sure really what it looks like now as I am waiting for more pics. but he didn't have it long as it was a possible business purchase that didn't end up using it for.

that big box does slide out the back 5 feet as I am told.
not my ideal set up, but workable for now.

[MTDewX8]

the rust. how should I grasp the rust in the front panel? I am thinking just look for a fender and change it out. thoughts. course I have not seen it in person yet. and the dealer will check it out hopefully soon and I will talk to them before I fly out.

Wheel_Well.JPGUnder_Bumper.JPG

[r_w]

Make sure the dealer inspects under/around the fiberglass running boards. The hitch is really clean, so I would think the underbody is equally clean. But those fiberglass flares are notorious for causing rot.

Guessing from the pictures and no history--I would say whoever mounted the boards didn't get the fender liner back in right and the damage you see is from extra water and possibly salt getting back in there. That looks like an easy fix. If the wheel arches or body have rotted behind the flares, that is a whole nother problem.

[MTDewX8]

yeah i am concerned a little bit. the fiber glass flares wont last long as I dont really like them for that reason. plus I dont care for running boards. sliders more so.
thanks. I am not a body man so I have to ask
at the dealer now and have already gave them a list to check. Dusted turbo, AC leak and RUST. so we shall see. for 10k I think I am still in a fair price range cause that is all I have for a van.

Make sure the dealer inspects under/around the fiberglass running boards. The hitch is really clean, so I would think the underbody is equally clean. But those fiberglass flares are notorious for causing rot.

Guessing from the pictures and no history--I would say whoever mounted the boards didn't get the fender liner back in right and the damage you see is from extra water and possibly salt getting back in there. That looks like an easy fix. If the wheel arches or body have rotted behind the flares, that is a whole nother problem.