I see an awful lot of tow rigs herein that squat when towing a loaded expo trailer and I'd like to hear how any have resolved this issue in their tow rigs. Did you use air bags, air shocks or?
I see an awful lot of tow rigs herein that squat when towing a loaded expo trailer and I'd like to hear how any have resolved this issue in their tow rigs. Did you use air bags, air shocks or?
Last edited by FellowTraveler; 08-04-2012 at 08:35 AM. Reason: typo
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sub. would like to know this as well. i think one way would. be having a “rake” have the back 1” or maybe even 2” higher than the front when not towing. that way when you are towing, it should sit level.
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Airbags are the best way to level a vehicle that has softer rear springs and does occasional towing. Most full-size trucks sit higher in the rear to compensate for being loaded with either stuff in the bed or a trailer. I personally don't like the stink bug look when unloaded though, so I would level my truck and then do airbags when towing a heavy trailer. For standard on road use, a weight distributing hitch also works well. However they do not allow for good articulation between the tow rig and trailer so they would be unsuitable for off road use.
Thats why on all my vehicles I have a 1-2 inch rake on the rear, FJ, van, truck. I see these trucks that have a nose high attitude and when they tow or load something they squat and drop.
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Squat can be corrected with Air Bags, and they are a good addition, but a lot of the trailers I see on the trail, have way too much tongue weight, some in the 400 pound area. If you are building your own trailer, keep the weight where it needs to be. Also for the trailer to tow properly the front should be 2 inches lower than the rear, not even. You can have far less tongue weight by having the trailer balanced. Keep the batteries low and too the center of the trailer and have the water tank under the trailer over the axle. That makes the center of gravity low and centered.
Air helper springs and heavier rear springs are advisable and recommended solutions. Good cargo management in both the tow vehicle is essential. If you load a lot of gear in the back of the tow vehicle and hook up a trailer the result may be "sag". Don't forget to adjust you tire air pressures for the increased load as well.
NATM trailer design guidelines for a single axle trailer advise 10-15% of the gross trailer weight to be on the tongue i.e. a 2000 lb trailer should have a 200-300 lb tongue weight. Too little weight will induce dangerous trailer sway, too much tongue weight will make the steering light in the tow vehicle. It is preferable to have your trailer level to reduce trailer tongue dive during hard breaking which will lighten your steering. Not a good thing to happen in an emergency stopping scenario.
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Actually during hard braking there is no trailer nose "dive". On hard braking the front of the "tow" vehicle will dip down which then causes the back end to raise up thus raising "up" the tounge of the trailer. Steering actually gets heavy during a hard brake.![]()
In my opinion, you don't design in a rake just so you sit level when towing. If you do, you wind up with things like poorly aimed headlights and other unintended consequences when NOT towing. If the trailer is so heavy that it is adversely affecting the rake of your vehicle you are doing something wrong, or your suspension is worn out to the point where you need to address it. Note that I said ADVERSELY affecting. Certainly there is a squat point that is perfectly safe and livable.