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Thread: Rust on the inside of the door

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Ohio
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    Default Rust on the inside of the door

    What would be the best way to tackle this rust? I need to do something with it before it gets worse and eats my doors.

    Here's some pics -





    Oh, and the holes aren't plugged, can't remember if you can see them from the pics. Thanks!
    "Ride due West as the sun sets.....turn left at the Rocky Mountains"

  2. #2
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    I reccomend some sanding and a good rust inhibiting primer. That stuff grows a lot faster than ya think!
    96 Jeep Cherokee, 4" lift, 31-10.50s, Custom built front, rear bumper, and sliders. OBA, Locrite locker in the rear, Safari roofrack with 6" KC lights, ARB awning, and custom roof mount spare.

  3. #3
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    Rust is always much worse than it looks. You might be surprised when you start grinding or blasting it out. I'm a big fan of POR-15 for projects like this -- the best product I've ever used for this purpose.

    Don

  4. #4
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    Check out http://www.eastwoodco.com/ They have some good products and methods to spray inside the door to neutralize the rust and then you can deal with the exterior.
    2007 RAM CTD Quad Cab SB - Project Wander Wagon
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  5. #5
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    POR 15 or rust shield the areas after you sand in down to as close as bare metal as possible.

    the stuff in spray cans are useless

    if the area(s) with holes need filling and are in an area that is/are prone to moisture use MarGlass (fiberglass reinforced~very fine strands) instead of bondo or the other types of plastic filler.

    I would also try to get some of the POR15 to the inside of the door along that seam if possible as there is most likely rust there that you can not see, may require removing the door though
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4xdog View Post
    I'm a big fan of POR-15 for projects like this -- the best product I've ever used for this purpose.
    I can't agree more. POR 15 is the first thing I thought of when I saw the pics. I'd go for some light brass brushing to get the flaky rust and the paint that is covering the 75% of the rust you can't see yet, clean it well, and POR 15 it. If necessary based on how far you have to go to get it all, top coat it with an appropriate color.....chances are out of a can will work well enough since it's a place you aren't going to see much of and the POR-15 will provide all the protection needed even if the paint doesn't go on thick enough.

  7. #7
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    Thanks guys! You've given me some excellent advice, I'll update this thread a little later and let you know how it turned out.
    "Ride due West as the sun sets.....turn left at the Rocky Mountains"

  8. #8
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    Rust converter then chassis encapsulate r finished by POR-15 in those hard to reach nooks and crannies outside must be sealed too or the rust will keep advancing. I use Eastwood always cause their stuff rocks and you need to decide if you need a salt neutralizer too applied before the above products.
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  9. #9
    Join Date
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    "Restore" Rust Converter is what I use. You gotta wash out the trapped debris that is creating the moisture inside the door & pinch welds of the lower door edge. Water to wash it out. Then regular ol Vinegar to clean it, then flush with water again and let it drip dry and try to dry it with compressed air. Then you have to clean/sand the areas you can reach, coat the visible and insides with Restore or Ospho, or any other rust converter. After a couple of days to fully cure, you can brush over it with POR-15, or KBS Coatings, or even paint. Just make sure that you fully encapsulate the corrosion affected areas to prevent any moisture from getting back into the areas.

    Nothing will fully stop the rust except a total removal of it, which in most cases like yours just isn't an option. It's like cancer.

  10. #10
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    i got this happening on my truck aswell so i'm building a sand blaster, i already tried a wire wheel and that just slowed it
    2011 ford ranger, 30.5 inch km2s

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