Thread: Power to Rear Cargo Area

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Greenfield/New Pal, Indiana
    Posts
    23

    Default Power to Rear Cargo Area

    So I'm planning to run power to the back of the cargo area so I can run some accessories. These include a 12 volt fridge/freezer, Smitybilt air compressor, a 600W inverter, and a 12 volt fan.

    So I'm planning on running a 4 guage wire back to a power post, split off power for the inverter, and then running a 6 place fuse block. Below is a sketch of what I'm thinking.

    Also in the mix is adding a 200 amp battery isolator, and an existing 200 amp alternator. One question I have is if all the 2 guage is overkill for the battery and starter connections?

    The inverter is 1200W peak, which should be drawing around 100Amp(?). According to the wire gauge charts 4 gauge should be OK for that.

    The fridge I'm looking at says it only draws 5.4 amps

    The Aircompressor is either 30 or 45 amp max, so should that have it's own power too?

    Any advice would be appreciated.

    Here is the current setup...

    IMG_2102.JPG

    bronco-power-system.jpg
    93 Ford Bronco, 4" extended radius arm lift, w/ new coils and leaf springs, 33" x 12.5" BFG M/Ts, Rear Detroit Locker, DIY cargo rack in cargo area, Broncoair front winch bumper w/ T-Max 12,000lb winch, yada yada yada... Build thread... - M332 ammo trailer

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    2
    If I read your drawing correctly you're planning to run three short 4g cables somewhere under the hood to fuse box and then another three 4g cables to the rear of the vehicle?

    Wouldn't it be easier to dun one 2g or 0g (or even 1/0g) cable from aux to the rear and mount fuse box/power panel there? IMHO it'll be easier to run and can actually be cheaper 0g cable isn't 3x more expensive than 4g one :-)

    Anyway - get as big cable as you can run, don't look at the charts only, consider vibrations, aging, oxidation, further additions - if your cart says 4g will be enough go one step higher.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Vermont Mountains
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    482
    I assume that the 2 batteries are in parallel & the batteries are grounded to the vehicle body & frame also

    so I have to think, why would you go off the battery isolator & not directly to the rear, unless it allows you to turn it off?

    I would have one line (power cable) running to the rear & one fuse with a distrubition box or the inverter etc

    each device is most likely to have its own fuse in its power cable/connection anyhow plus some sort of shut off switch in the rear would be a bonus
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Greenfield/New Pal, Indiana
    Posts
    23
    Yes, currently the batteries are in parallel. Upgrading the grounds were the last thing I did to the Bronco (last weekend in fact.) I was having starting issues, and it turned out to be bad ground cable to the engine. So, now the batteries are tied to one point, and then that goes down to the frame, which also has a cable going to the engine.

    Here's my current plans based on everyone's recommendations.

    93 Ford Bronco, 4" extended radius arm lift, w/ new coils and leaf springs, 33" x 12.5" BFG M/Ts, Rear Detroit Locker, DIY cargo rack in cargo area, Broncoair front winch bumper w/ T-Max 12,000lb winch, yada yada yada... Build thread... - M332 ammo trailer

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