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Thread: Desert Rigs: Ideas to help keep cool. Share

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    Southeast
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    6
    Heat is transferred from a hotter object to a colder object 3 ways:
    - Conduction: two objects touching each other, think of food in a heated pan on the stove
    - Convection: air immediately adjacent to an object is heated or cooled to the temperature of the object, transferring a miniscule amount of heat energy; air currents occur (natural convection occurs as hotter air rises, cooler air sinks) which keep bringing fresh air at the prevailing room temperature. The quicker the air moves (the faster the 'turnover' time of the air layer next to the object), the quicker the heat transfer. This is how WIND CHILL can kill you when the absolute temp isn't that cold, but your body is constantly trying to warm the air next to your body, but it keeps being stripped away by the wind (and replaced by cold air again). Your body loses the battle of trying to heat up the world!
    - Radiation: heat transfers (even through a vacuum...no air or physical contact) from the hot object to a cold object in its line of sight. Think about how sun feels on your body. That is radiation heating you up. Just like sitting in front of a fire.

    Okay, with that out of the way: the roof gets REALLY HOT sitting in the sun. The air next to the roof on the inside heats up by convection, which in turn heats up the headliner, which in turn heats up the passenger compartment. The roof also directly heats the headliner via radiation. The bubble wrap reflective stuff really does work. The shiny stuff reflects MOST of the radiant heat gain from the roof, so the headliner can't "see" the roof and the reflective surface keeps the insulator itself cool. Also, there are little air bubbles that provide a bit of insulation, so the convective heat gain (from the heated air above the headliner) doesn't get to the headliner very well.

    Trust me, it makes a BIG difference. Doors? Nah, it wouldn't make much difference. Heat gain through the vertical door is fairly low. You already have two layers of steel, door panel, etc. Now heat gain (radiation) through the GLASS is obviously an issue. That's why tinting helps so much. This isn't a good material for sound deadening, as it isn't going to absorb much sonic energy (basically converting vibrations in the air to vibrations in solid material which are converted to heat), nor is it dense enough to BLOCK sound. To do that, I put Damplifier Pro as a CLD (constrained layer damper = converts panel sound vibration to heat energy) on the door sheet metal, and then a layer of MLV over top (mass loaded vinyl which acts as a direct mechanical barrier to sound; think of listening to a noisy generator or lawnmower and then ducking down below a brick wall...the sound doesn't pass through the brick very well).

    As to the heat GAIN in the cab: the question was about desert conditions, and I am assuming that is NOT referring to winter time. So the HOT place is OUTSIDE, and the cool place is INSIDE. Heat flows from HOT to COLD, so I am not sure what is meant by "reflective material also reflects heat back into the vehicle". Sorry, but that is not how heat transport works. Forgive the engineering geek stuff, but this is how this stuff works. Now if you put the reflective stuff OUTSIDE so it shined IN to the truck, yes, it would heat it up. But that isn't the plan.

    Hopefully this makes sense and is useful.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Santee, CA
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    1,648
    Can't find a pic on line at the moment, best vent idea I've seen on an XJ was a Jeepspeed car that had those metal/reversible vents mounted in the roof. I'll do my best to describe them. Maybe 2"x8" door, it can be closed completely, or popped open with the cover at a 45*+/- angle either way.

    Found a pic of one closed...

    http://images.search.yahoo.com/image...mb=cWGiUAMsXXk
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  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Somewhere in the desert, Socal
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    491
    Some don't have a/c, some delete it for OnBoardAir. Honetly I have it & it works. But when out eploring it waste more gas..which you can only carry so much of. & I'll also be converting it to OBA.
    But also just general modifications as well...you won't be running your a/c thorugh the night, so having mods that reflect heat, or vent air, or tint windows/shade to block light/heat & pearing eyes. The mods will not only help while you run your a/c but most importantly help whle your not running it!


    Waldo, you make perferct since bud. Question for ya..do you think normal, black shaded tint would work better than the reflective mirror stuff? Basically I will put maybe 50% on the front 2 doors & hatch & windshield, and 35% on the rear doors & 1/4 panel glass. Not very dark..but will help slightly.
    My thinking is the mirror stuff will refect more heat, because its mirrored, even at the same percentages? Wouldn't that be correct?
    Last edited by 88Xj; 08-17-2012 at 03:16 AM.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    Somewhere in the desert, Socal
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    Bob, I know exactly what your talking about...

    Talking about rally car roof vents? Similar to these right?
    http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/for...f/13512/page1/

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Rancho Mordor
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    2,105
    I've gone with the low tech approach. 1) I have dark tinted windows on the rear window and the glass of both rear doors. Used to have the front windows tinted as well but the second fix-it ticket put an end to that. 2) I installed window valences or what ever they're called. These allow me to have the windows cracked to allow ventilation without rain coming in. 3) I put a salvage cover (heavy duty flame retardant tarp) on the truck rack that acts as a double roof over a portion of the cab's roof and creates a shade area in the bed.
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  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    Somewhere in the desert, Socal
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    Awsome idea's! The tarp deal, would also be similar to a roof rack..the rack would off shade ove the roof, thus the rack would ake the majority of the heat!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Somewhere in the desert, Socal
    Posts
    491
    Awsome idea's! The tarp deal, would also be similar to a roof rack..the rack would off shade ove the roof, thus the rack would ake the majority of the heat!

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    215
    Hiya

    My camper roof was kinda shiny bare aluminium. It got so hot in the sun i needed a camping mat to keep me from burning myself on it.

    I then painted the roof white (with a white rubberised masonary paint cos thats all I could find where I was at the time), suddenly the roof is cool to the touch and the interior is much cooler! Three years later its still in perfect condition!

    I had thought silver would be a good colour, but not nearly as good as white!

    Also, I think for the silver reflective stuff to work you need an air gap. I imagine thats why the material mentioned has bubbles too, or the heat would just conduct through?

    U1700 camper called Moglet

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Rifle, Colorado, United States
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    745
    excellant thread!

    we had a thread on this in ck5, and one of the ideas that came up was an australian style roof rack. the floor of the roof rack is about 1-2" about the suv's roof, and is made of aluminum painted white on top and black underneath. the idea is kinda like a heat shield for your roof. plus the gap allow the hot air to be pushed out the back as you are going down the road.
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  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    NORCAL/NORNV
    Posts
    1,725
    My jeep lives in the NorNv desert and the temps have gone up to 115°F (usually 95°F) and I've insulated the inside overhead surface of my '08 JKUR-

    There are several overhead insul companys so that won't matter, but

    By using Auto Thermal-Acoustic insulation (shinyside up) my jeep can op in the desert and The A/C only has to be cycled now and then--I don't like full A/C-





    JIMBO

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