Huck Truck 2004 Tundra build

Falkon

Adventurer
You can get 2.5" in the front out of the 5100's. The rears don't add any height. Your height will depend on how big the pucks you are taking out and what height or you set the bilsteins.

You will get a better ride with the 5100's. I have heard of times where the spring can loose some spring if it has been pre loaded for a while, like the pucks do. You could set the 5100's at the same height or more probably. I would recommend adding the diff drop if you go with the top notch/2.5", just for safety sake.

Good luck!
 

WASURF63

Adventurer
Spahle,

You may want to inspect your CV boots as well. Some of these 1st Gen Tundras are notorious for leaking a little "or alot" of grease once the angle of the CV joint is changed when lifting the front end. I never had this problem with my '00 Tundra AC, but major CV grease spewage after installing the Toytec/Bilstein/5100 combo (2.5" setting) on my '05 DC.

Here is a thread on this topic: http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...-CV-boot-fix?p=1108220&highlight=#post1108220

And a link to a good article on CV boot mods (scroll down to post #15): http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/off-roading/15623-tundra-offroad-mods-and-tech/
 

Spahle

Observer
So if that is a 1 inch spacer and I remove it and set the 5100's to 1 inch of lift I should have the same clearance?
 

jim65wagon

Well-known member
That looks like a Daystar 2-1/2" setup to me. It's made of 2 separate pucks. The Top puck (the one with the vertical goove in your picture) is 3/4" and nets about a 1-1/2" lift by itself. The second puck sits below the top plate of the coilover (preloads the coil) and gives another 1" of lift. To get this same lift with the 5100s you will have to set them at 2-1/2" (top groove). If it was only the 1-1/2" lift the metal top plate would be setting right down on the coil.
 

dyogim

Explorer
I had the same daystar lift kit when I first bought the truck back in 2000. As soon as I installed it and drove it, I hated it. Had issues with the upper spindle hitting the coil at full extension. Took, the top puck out and left the internal puck to provide enough height and level the truck with no lift in the rear.
 

jim65wagon

Well-known member
That's funny cause when I first did a lift I bought a used Daystar kit cheap but only installed the top puck which gave me about an inch and a half of lift and kept my 255/85s from rubbing. I put 70,000 miles set up like that. Cheap and it worked, but they didn't make adjustable Bilsteins back then either.....
 

Spahle

Observer
So would the stock spring with 5100's set to 2 and 1/2 ride any smoother then an old spring with the pucks? Or should I just get the kyb shocks and leave the pucks? Just looking to keep current clearence and get a smoother ride.
 

jim65wagon

Well-known member
The stock springs and the 5100 set at 2-1/2" will ride better and be better for your ball joints than the stock set-up with the pucks. Ditch the pucks, get the Bilsteins.....
 

lhuyviet

New member
Here are my plans with my bed/shell. For storage, build bins in a "u" shape form for the bed (sides of the bed and the front of the bed). This will leave the middle section for a cooler(s) or other containers. Make the bins on the side wide enough to lay down and sleep in. For the shell, mount 2, 3 or 4 actuators. When setting up for camp, with a flip of a switch, the actuators will lift the shell to allow for more headroom/space to move comfortably. The opening between the bed and the shell will be enclosed with some type of sunbrella material. Here's where I got the idea but, do not want to spend the $1k+ to buy the kit. However, if I come across some extra cash, I may just buy it....LOL!

http://www.ezliftsystems.com/topper-ezlift/

Anyone has experience with the topper ezlift or similar system.

Cheers,

Huy

1999 GMC Safari Condo SX, 2 Solar Panels, BFG AT. (Sold)
2010 Toyota Matrix AWD + 2007 Quicksilver 8.0
 

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