6x6 defender off road camper build

Jitterbug

Adventurer
My girlfriend has requested something along the lines of this gold:
b49bc51fa26ace122c2c1e9678ac8203.jpg

Fairly close to the original colour so will make the paint job easier.
 

Jitterbug

Adventurer
After a bit more playing in photoshop and discussions with the boss I have decided on 'Limestone', the sand colour the series 3s were available in.

It is light, non military (but still 'safari'), will look fairly original and not too flash (as if a giant 6wd defender isnt going to attract attention anyway, haha)! It also isnt a million miles away from the current colour so will make the painting easier.

LAND_ROVER_S2A_LEN_SMYTH_ezr.jpg

Now to get on with the rest of the strip down before i start the rebuild. Still quite daunted by the whole project at this stage!
 
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spikemd

Explorer
I like the limestone. Good neutral color that fits an older rover.

That is quite a truck. What is the overall size in comparison to a 130?
 

Jitterbug

Adventurer
That is quite a truck. What is the overall size in comparison to a 130?

It is 157" from front axle to rear axle, and about 120" front to middle, compared to 127" of the 130.

Approach angle would be the same, ramp over would be better and departure would be worse, although I havent measured the rear overhang yet.

I am also not holding my breath for when it comes time to test the turning circle!
 

Snagger

Explorer
The sand or limestone looks best and will keep the vehicle coolest in the sun. They'll also hide dirt the best. Yellow has one big benefit not to be sniffed at, though (as would orange or any other very bright colour); SAR visibility. That could be of benefit considering the purpose of the vehicle. Sand and limestone may camoflage the car, which could be aproblem if you're very unlucky.

The turning circle will be huge, but look on it as a future engineering challenge, fitting six-wheel steering with a couple of Salisbury front axles at the back ($$$!).:) That said, it should be feasible to use standard front axles at the rear as the torque and loads are spread across a pair, rather than borne by a single unit.
 

AeroNautiCal

Explorer
The turning circle will be huge, but look on it as a future engineering challenge, fitting six-wheel steering with a couple of Salisbury front axles at the back ($$$!).:)

It would probably be less expensive to widen the road whenever you wanted to turn round... :)
 

Jitterbug

Adventurer
It would probably be less expensive to widen the road whenever you wanted to turn round... :)

On the plus side, I should become very good at three point turns with all the practice I will get.
I will need to new wheels anyway so might go for some with -25 offset then I can dial the steering stops in slightly, could help a little...
 

Jitterbug

Adventurer
Damn you... Now I find myself looking for a 6 wheeler camper conversion project...

If it makes you feel any better you can help with mine, with my current rate of progress it will probably still not be running by the time you get back in Oz!

Now the army are getting the 6x6 G wagons you might see some 6x6 ex-mil defenders start to come up at auction.
 

The Rover Shop

Explorer
Been thinking about this rear steer idea.. Really if you think about it it wouldn't be too hard to do.. Replace rear diff assys with fronts.. Design one rod that controls both powered by an electric motor.. Have a boat trim position sensor on it with a gauge mounted in the dash and the rear steer is controlled electrically by a switch on the dash.. The gauge shows your rear wheel position and the electric motor doesn't let it move while driving.. Tight turns or maneuvering you use the rear wheels to get around obstacles etc..mmmmm, now it's got me thinking..lol..
 

Jitterbug

Adventurer
Time for an update; Progress has been SLOW.

I am still stripping the car back to start again with the interior fit out. All interior trim, VERY well glued down carpet, seats and roof lining. Roof rack is off and I started taking off the air con unit, everything seems to take twice as long as it should!

On the plus side, in general there is very little rust, the step into the camper will have to be cut out and some new sheet folded and welded in but other than that it is minor surface stuff that can be cleaned up and painted.

I have bought the roof vents. A camec 4 seasons for the front, where the air con unit currently sits (this has the advantage of giving me a small area to stand up straight!) and a 12v Fan-tastic vent for the rear, above the bed.

I am currently on the hunt for a 4BD1, no easy task, although I have found that I have the correct bellhousing already (very hard to get hold of) so I am part way there!

I have also moved the car closer to the shed so now within range of air hose and welding gear :)

Hopefully there will be more progress over the Christmas holidays, i am aiming to have the air con out and start on (maybe finish) the engine removal too.

P1010511.jpg


P1010491.jpg


P1010516.jpg
 

Toymotor

New member
Have you considered one of those engine coolant heat exchangers for your hot water? An electric heating element will draw a lot of current. Check out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MeeSGphmL6Q, I think Glind have been making these for a few years and now a lot of other companies like Bushranger are making them. I've got a gas-powered hot water shower but it takes up a lot of space, the benefit of the heat exchanger is that it's under the bonnet so doesn't take up any room in the cab or back.
 

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