MetalCloak?

sgregg108

Adventurer
One more question for you all. The Jeep seems to be pulling to the right slightly, but at high speeds it definitely pulls me into the next lane if I'm not holding onto the steering wheel. Everything is torqued to spec, my top arms aren't exactly equal, but I've read on Jeepforum that this isn't that big of a deal. It seems like this would be the issue. Another baffling part of the equation is that my caster is within spec and I had a computer alignment done, so I'm not sure what gives.

Any insight?
 

Septu

Explorer
A vehicle aligned properly should pull to the right when breaking. It shouldn't do so in a dangerous manor, but the idea is that if you slam on the breaks and are unable to steer, it'll gradually move to to the shoulder. You talk to MC? As you've had an alignment, I'm not sure what to say. I know I haven't experienced anything like what you've said.
 

sgregg108

Adventurer
I haven't talked to Will, I sent him tons of emails prior to install and a few after, I was trying to figure this out on my own, lol. I'm going to write him now though.
A vehicle aligned properly should pull to the right when breaking. It shouldn't do so in a dangerous manor, but the idea is that if you slam on the breaks and are unable to steer, it'll gradually move to to the shoulder. You talk to MC? As you've had an alignment, I'm not sure what to say. I know I haven't experienced anything like what you've said.
 

sgregg108

Adventurer
I ruled out most of the wear and tear items since it's only got 14,000 miles. I bought her new a year ago (this week actually!) and it didn't have any issues with my stock setup.
 

toxicity_27

Adventurer
I've got a couple of questions for those of you with a MetalCloak lift. Have you noticed any sag when you really load your Jeep up? How does it ride when fully loaded? Which lift did you end up getting? Thanks.
 

X-plorenow

Adventurer
I have the 2.5" / 3.5" dual rate kit and I have no sag ever. I am running 35"s and Expedition 1 full bumpers front and rear. When loaded she is quite heavy. If anything it is more on the stiff side than soft and saggy. But I love it and would do it again.
 

DallasJKU

Adventurer
I ruled out most of the wear and tear items since it's only got 14,000 miles. I bought her new a year ago (this week actually!) and it didn't have any issues with my stock setup.

Did you ever figure out why it pulled right?? My 2.5" is on its way in waves since the trackbars were not at NR4x4. I have compiled a list of possible issues for my installer and I would like to add this to the list.
 
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wADVr

Adventurer
Pulling to the right can be caused from various things and ruling out components due to them being new or low miles is generally a bad idea(especially with MOPAR-unfortunately) I would have it realigned and inspected for component failure. Factory ball joints have a rediculously short life span even on an all stock JK. The factory housing could be bent, unit hubs loose, tires can even creat pull(Toyos are notorious for this) adding wheels with less back spacing and heavier tires with more rolling resistance increases the issue even further. Components of the suspension such as the control arms should be inspected every so often- it is easier than it should be to NOT find worn bushings. Worn bushings are not always noticeable to a tech simply doing a computer alignment with static forces applied only. Worn bushings will allow movement as forces from braking, weight shift etc to change the alignment specs up to several degrees. That all said a blown shock or weak spring could create a situation explained but would say it is rare and would think other drivability issues would arise as well.

I know the issue was posted months ago and probably was remedied. My point though is that there is more to troubleshooting an alignment issue sometimes that simply having the vehicle aligned and looking at the only thing that was changed(although typically a good practice).
 

sgregg108

Adventurer
Dallas,

I never figured it out for certain. My best guess is it's mostly due to road crowning, could be radial pull, but not really sure to be honest. I had it checked out locally at Rebel Off Road, they suggested I try lower control arms, I had them order the MC arms, put them on and have the vehicle realigned again. It seems to be the same, might be slightly better, but could just be me telling myself the cost was justified :) However, it never was that bad to begin with but was enough to make me question whether I installed the kit correctly / have it checked out. It's not that noticeable and only happens when I take my hands completely off the steering wheel. Even one pinky on the wheel it'll stay on track, so that's why I'm not too concerned with it. I've also taken it on numerous trips and trail runs since installing the lift, after adding 10k worth of miles it's driving and performing great both on road and the trail.

Did you ever figure out why it pulled right?? My 2.5" is on its way in waves since the trackbars were not at NR4x4. I have compiled a list of possible issues for my installer and I would like to add this to the list.

Good points on what could be causing these issues. Always a good idea to check other items after the easy / logical ones are ruled out. I haven't noticed anything else that causes alarm and the guys at Rebel said they couldn't find anything wrong with it and after their alignment (2nd alignment w/in 2 months of the lift) I feel confident that it's good to go, and haven't had any negative feedback from the tire shop at rotation time (bad wearing / uneven, etc.)

Pulling to the right can be caused from various things and ruling out components due to them being new or low miles is generally a bad idea(especially with MOPAR-unfortunately) I would have it realigned and inspected for component failure. Factory ball joints have a rediculously short life span even on an all stock JK. The factory housing could be bent, unit hubs loose, tires can even creat pull(Toyos are notorious for this) adding wheels with less back spacing and heavier tires with more rolling resistance increases the issue even further. Components of the suspension such as the control arms should be inspected every so often- it is easier than it should be to NOT find worn bushings. Worn bushings are not always noticeable to a tech simply doing a computer alignment with static forces applied only. Worn bushings will allow movement as forces from braking, weight shift etc to change the alignment specs up to several degrees. That all said a blown shock or weak spring could create a situation explained but would say it is rare and would think other drivability issues would arise as well.

I know the issue was posted months ago and probably was remedied. My point though is that there is more to troubleshooting an alignment issue sometimes that simply having the vehicle aligned and looking at the only thing that was changed(although typically a good practice).
 

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