Setting up a 97 Dodge 2500 12v Cummins 4x4 for Expo: What are essential tools?

12valver

New member
Hi forum

Like the title says, I'm trying to figure out a list of essential tools for my new-to-me 12v to take on remote trips mostly. I anticipate overlanding...paved roads and light trails....the most difficult might be a fire access road. I'm trying to balance taking the most important tools for 'likely problems' vs. taking everything to save weight. I have a fair amount of import-auto orientated tools, experience junk-yarding, and making ad-hoc tools 'on the fly' but don't have the experience of having a family shop in the back of my house. I don't know how to run a lathe for instance (however, I DO know good power tools when I see then like my uncle's tools from the 50's!).

Beyond your everyday tools like visegrips, sockets, needle nose pliers, and zip-ties, what are the essential / specialty tools for "likely failures/ likely adjustments" that cannot be fabricated on the road from other tools? For a 12v rig? For example, I understand there is a timing tool that is required for the cummins block. I figure each category (brakes, fuel delivery, timing, diffs, etc), might have a special tool or two.

The rig has 130k/auto and is in xlnt shape mechanically having been maintained on schedule by the prev owner. KDP done. Valves adjusted not too long ago. Tranny had been proactively removed & rebuilt into a beefier unit. Full array of autometer guages (fuel psi, EGT, boost, auto trans temp). Running on 315/70/16 BF Goodrich A/T's. Mostly used as a camping rig w/ occasional boat towing 4x per year from CA to AZ. No rust!

So far, my searching hasn't turned up much about tools here or on TDR.com save this blurb from the TDR:
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?127562-Fuel-leak-fixed-lessons-learned

My goal is to save weight as well as have the broadest array of tools to execute repairs.
THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!!!!!!!

On another note, this is the list of spares I have so far....am I missing anything?
Besides some brushes for the alternator?

Gates waterpump,
Gates thermostat + seals (2)
Gates pulley tensioner,
Gates Serpentine belt,
Upper radiator hose
Lower radiator hose
OE mopar front brake pads (set)
4 x OE mopar cummins oil filters (I realize these are rebranded Fleetguard units)
1 x OE mopar airfilter
2 x OEM fuel filters (fleetguard)

Thanks
 

FellowTraveler

Explorer
I'd look at a oil bypass filtration system which will extend the oil/filter change intervals, more fuel filters.

As for the transmission a RE47 I'm guessing the cooler mounted on side of the block can be its biggest enemy in warm weather tropic or sub tropic areas. I had removed the engine mounted cooler from the transmission cooling circuit with a shutoff valve so it can be brought back on line during cold weather or in cooler areas. I use B&M's super cooler w/Spal fan and all lines should be 1/2"id and of the best quality you can afford.

Next would be a 4" dia. turbo back exhaust system in aluminized or stainless material, then a big the bigger the better air filter/box/canister it will wake up that Cummin's making it more efficient.

Another mod is using two absorbent glass mat (AGM) batteries each with way more than enough amps to start the Cummin's by itself then isolate one battery for a house battery when camping, etc..

Check for any recall info some years had a electrical issue w/blower that could melt/burn harness more likely than not a dealer will not fix any recalled issues so buy the factory service manual sets and apprise yourself of everything DODGE CUMMINS for the year you own.

I'm thinking that front differential has sealed unit bearings not the best design, I've split these sealed bearings using a hub puller then assembled them by bouncing a hammer around the sealed unit to re-seat. This dangerous if you do not have the skills or knowledge of what you are doing so it's at own risk!
 

Heavy44TRT

New member
Great platform to start with.

A 12 valve Cummins is one of the best platforms to start with, but I am biased. You list of spare parts looks good. I would add a starter to it though. The last few days, my truck was starting slow, so yesterday I had time to look at it. I began checking the batteries, then the battery terminals. Then I tried the starter. I pulled the spare that I carry in the back of the truck and installed it. It fired right up. I then went to the auto parts store to get another one. In this situation, it was no big deal because I was at home, but next week we are supposed to go camping. If it had happened next week, my wife and I would have been stuck in the middle of nowhere. I know starters are expensive and heavy, but they are irreplaceable, especially with your auto trans. Also, might want to add fuses, multimeter, spare wire, connectors.

Good luck and looking forward to your build. Post pictures.
 

Rot Box

Explorer
Having all the right tools is a great goal to have unfortunately some things (like those front unit bearings) are nearly impossible to repair on the road. In that case being completely on top of all service intervals and pm's and only use the best parts available (even if they cost more) is paramount. Having a very detailed log of every part replaced and every repair made has been a huge benefit for me personally. Its great to hear you're wanting parts and tools vs. accessories and bling. So many people get these two things reversed in the order they should come in imo.

Sorry these aren't specific to the 12v Cummins/Dodge but they're some tools I carry that have proven very useful along the way. They do take up space but I have used them all more than once so thats enough for me to justify packing it.

-Ball joint press kit. Also works for u-joints and other items in a pinch.
-BernzOmatic Mapp gas torch
-Pry bar set. I have this set and its been great: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=682408&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
-Pickle fork set. For ball joints and rod ends.
-Vacuum bleed tool. I consider it mandatory for brakes and clutches.
-Tire plug kit. I have this one and I hope I never need it http://www.amazon.com/ARB-10000010-Orange-Speedy-Repair/dp/B004P91FCO
-BIG splitting maul. I learned this the hard way recently. Some wheels especially the stock ones press onto the hubs. Sometimes they get corroded and stick to the hubs making it nearly impossible to remove them without force. This is also nice to use with the pickle forks to bust those balljoints/tie rods loose. You also get to split logs... Its BIG and awkward but a lifesaver when you need one.

Welcome and you definitely have the right truck for the job :bike_rider:
 

ExpoMike

Well-known member
Having had the following item fail on me and having to use a zip tie to get me home, I would suggest the 70 amp fuel shutoff "pull up" relay. It's mounted on the firewall lip, inside of the master cylinder area. You'll see a couple relays and there is. If you go to Larry B's site ( http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge ). Always have a spare. Also a heavy duty fuel shutoff solenoid (previous owner already did mine). Larry B's site has them too.

As for the starter, likely the actual starter is not bad but the contacts. Larry B's site has HD versions that would be worth installing before you need them. I have them but haven't been able to get the power cable cover off the starter to then pull the starter out of the rig.

Don't waste your money on an oil bypass filter setup. I did the math on cost versus benefit of it or just replacing the factory oil filter every 5000 miles and it's likely to take you years and 10's of thousands of miles to ever recover the cost. If you did a LOT of over the road travel, it can make sense but for the typical driver, not really. My opinion as I almost did it myself.

Welcome to the Cummins world. We have been very happy with ours and hope to have many, many years of service from it.
 

12valver

New member
FellowTraveler, Heavy44TRT, Rot Box, and ExpoMike.....thanks for the replies!

Re: AGM's...I was thinking of going with Sears Platinum Diehards each plumbed with a individual cutoff switch. It seems Odyssey recommends the Group 34 for 3rd-gen 12vcummins but

1) is there a larger size I can run in a 3rd gen?
2) IF there is a larger size I can run (ie the 89-93 rigs seem to have only 1 battery, a group 31) is there a problem/premature failure with running two dissimilar units in the rig....ie a Group 34 + Group 31?

http://www.sears.com/diehard-platin...size-34-price-with/p-02850034000P#reviewsWrap
http://www.sears.com/diehard-platin...p-02850131000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

Re: starters...it seems Geno's garage sells this 10mm 12point open/closed ender. Is this -really- required to R&R the starter?
http://www.genosgarage.com/10MM-12-POINT-WRENCH/productinfo/WRENCH-10MM/

Looks like there's a lot of specialized tools listed on Geno's. And LarryB's. I'll have to pick apart those sites.
Much thanks for your guy'z insights!
 
Last edited:

ExpoMike

Well-known member
Don't put in the Marine version for your primary batteries. The non marine versions have a better warranty and you really don't need the deep discharging properties of the marine batteries. I did put one in my camper.

I was able to fit a pair of Platinum's in the front. They are what Sears classifies as their P-2 model, which is a group 65 ( http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...tive&cName=Batteries&sName=Car Batteriesmv=rr ).

To make these fit, I had to trim about a 1/4" off the little ribs in the battery trays. I was able to do this with a cutoff wheel but even a sharp chisel would work. Took me about 5 minutes per tray but having the added capacity/CCA of the larger batteries were worth it. I would not run just a single one as the grid heater and fuel heater can pull a lot of power when in cold weather. Dodge moved to two batteries for a reason.

So far, these have been working awesome and cranks with authority, even after sitting for months on end. I had thought about adding a solenoid to isolate the two (I did this on my M1010 ambulance I was building) but decided to keep things as the factory had them. I did have to replace the main power cable due to corrosion on the terminals and cable due to a previous battery boil over (previous to my ownership).
 

Heavy44TRT

New member
Tools for replacing starter

To replace the starter, I used a 10 mm combination open/closed wrench, a 17mm socket for the power wire, and an 8mm (5/16" seemed like it fit better) combination open/closed wrench. These were standard craftsman tools. I will have to check out Larry B's website for a HD Starter. You are probably right that it was the contacts, but the truck has 268,000 miles and I don't know when the starter was replaced. So I figured it would be best to just replace the whole thing. Right now I am running 2 Yellow Optimas. They are about 4 1/2 years old. They are still doing fine, but they are on borrowed time I know. The Sears Platinum batteries look very good. I am glad people here have had good luck with them because that is what I am probably going with next. I am planning on putting a solar panel on the camper shell and a couple of batteries in the bed this winter.
Also for just in case, I carry a Honda 2000 watt generator along with a battery charger and old hair dryer from my wife. That way in the winter if I have to, I can start the Honda, plug in the truck's block heater and the battery charger and top off the batteries. The hair dryer is to thaw the fuel filter in case it ever freezes. I also carry an anti gel called diesel 911 ( not positive of the name, but got it at NAPA). The Cummins always starts in the winter (granted I live in Southern Utah, so it is not that cold) even without being plugged in. Last year I went to the mountains to build a snow cave and stay the night. I wanted to test my cold weather starting setup. I got up at 04:30 in the morning and fired up the generator, plugged in the block heater and the battery charger. I waited about an hour and a half and fired up the motor. It started like it was a normal warm day. This winter also want to get electric battery pads to put under the batteries.

I know this is overkill, but like the Boy Scout Motto says, Be Prepared.
 
D

Deleted member 12023

Guest
Hey 12valver! I like that screen name! As for spare parts you have it pretty much nailed! I wouldn't bother with the new starter. Your will give you warning when it's on it's way out.

Personally I would upgrade to the 99HD steering, and start looking at borgson steering boxes. I have a readhead right now and wouldn't bother with it again. Another good upgrade is the rear master cylinder mod, cheap too. Get your front end dialed in and enjoy it. These trucks are bullet proof.

I'd add some trans fluid to that list, a couple of hose clamps to bypass the heating coil if that decides to leak. Some fuel hose incase you rip one, or a hard line goes.

The timing can and does slip. Mine just did! Learn how to pin time it and have a gear puller. No need for a dial indicator unless you are going to advance it.

-Nate
 

12valver

New member
You guys are great! My sincere thanks for all the info and expertise! You guys have mentioned essential items that I currently own but never thought to bring such as a genset, 12v charger, & hairdryer. There's nothing like discovering you have a 'new tool' from old tools in your toolbox. :)

Sorry for the late followup; this past week saw me selling my old rig to make room for my new 12v diesel toy.....a 22RE powered 4runner setup with bells, whistles, and a gazillion OE parts I tracked down across my county. "New-old stock" is what gets the blood moving.

Coming back to cummins-powered rigs, I've been reading up on lift pump failure that got me thinking: What are 'healthy' readings from gauges such as fuel pressure, EGT, and trans temp? Like I mentioned above, I have a full array of autometer gauges plumbed into the rig: boost, trans temp, EGT, and fuel pressure.

Does anyone know the fuel-psi range of a lift pump beginning to fail? What does a healthy reading look like?
 

oldestof11

Observer
I have an older 12v (1st Gen) but I can help on the Cummins mill.

I would do preventative maintenance first and foremost. Things like fluid changes, valve adjustments, 4" exhaust, slightly more power, a better converter (you don't need a triple disk unless you are looking at big power, then you need a billet input and it goes on from there), a better valvebody, injectors rebuilt which helps a lot on starting and mileage, retorquing the head bolts to factory specs (they do loosen and can blow a headgasket. Personal experience), cooling circuit flushed and filled, intercooler pulled out and flushed as oil can collect in there.

Boost if stock is probably around 25psi. Max egts can be anything if you keep it less than 30 seconds or so otherwise I read a report that Cummins has the 24v rated at 1250* at 100% duty cycle in the manifold. Trans temp should not get too far above engine temp. Fuel pressure is around 45psi iirc...
 

teleturns

Adventurer
Do you plan to travel in cold weather?

Hey 12valver....welcome!

If you plan to travel in cold weather I would recommend carrying a metal fuel container (MSR) with kerosene in it. If your fuel filter freezes up you can fill the spare filter with kerosene install it and get your truck fired up. I have seen this happen several times to 12 valves at temperatures below zero.

Just a thought.....
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
I'll add:
-ether
-mud rated tire chains
-max tracks
-shovel
-50' 3/8" chain
-tarp
-tire sealant
-lots more tireplugs than anyone mentioned. If you have enough of them and sealant you can plug a hole in a tire as big as your %&$#.
-air compressor
-extra batteries. ( Plain jane Napa G34 or G31's, no need for Optimas any more)
-little 900w harbor frieght generator is handy for lights and/or 6a battery charger and cost next to nothing.
-gloves
-moron light
-1/2" breaker bar
-big orange dead blow hammer
-rope
-5 giant 4x4 nails

Just replace the lift pump now. I replace the entire alternator and put the old one under the seat or something. A new starter is allways nice, just pull yours and get it rebuilt.

Don't forget to move your breathers up.
 

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