Here are the items I think we need to finish the axles up: Any help or feedback would be appreciated!
1. New rear driveshaft to replace Rotoflex. Thinking Tom Woods, to match the front.
My opinion differs from Mike's. I think the stock Land Rover shaft is too wimpy. Sure, it's lighter weight and lighter does not transfer vibrations as bad. The bigger and badder your shaft, the heavier it is, more mass that has to move, and more problems that can go wrong that create vibrations.
But you've already installed a stiffer spring, a stiffer shock, and now you're ready to ditch the roto-flex....so I doubt you're too worried about light vibrations at this point.
Weight aside, I like the 1310 u-joints. Does anyone have a picture with a 1300 u-joint beside a 1310 u-joint? A pic is worth a 1000-words.
Also, you can walk into any parts store in any part of the world and find a 1310 u-joint. Quality of u-joints is another biggie. Spicer no longer makes the 5x-4 (or what ever it was) 1300-series u-joint. If spicer is still making this joint it's not being sold under the Spicer name. Neapco has a joint similar but you have to be careful as to which one you buy; one is "made in China" and is also sold under the Delco brand. To my knowledge there is no superior 1300-series u-joint commonly available.
The 1310-series, on the other hand, is different. Tom Woods sells his own brand of Gold Star u-joints which have been very successful. You can also get a 1310 Spicer joint. These premium joints are not much money, either. You end up with a larger joint with more needle bearings and a larger "chamber" for grease. You also end up with more surface area to dissipate heat when riding between your two catalytic converters and an overall stronger joint.
Besides, if you have 1310's already in the front, why put 1300's in the rear? Keep it simple. Use Green Grease.
2. Front and rear differential housing/cover guards. I am really not a fan of the bolt-on style. Would love to find a set of Mantec covers. I have a friend in France looking. I will also be in England in mid-November, and will try to dig up a set there. I know the sewer caps are bomber, but I just cannot bring myself to putting them on this truck.
Ditch that idea from France. Have the French ever made anything good? Even their wine is so-so.
If that French product kept the diff pan looking totally stock, that would be killer. But it doesn't. You may as well install those sewer caps.
3. New brake pads all the way around. I have these from EE. I would really like to do the D90 upgrade. Jack, any feedback on that?
For this, it looks like I need D90 Calipers, Rotors and pads. Is there anything I am missing?
At the same time, I will be removing the ABS components. Has anyone tried to remove the ABS pump and associated brake lines and just run off-of the master cylinder. I am assuming the proportioning is in the MC. That spot is perfect for the compressor. I also have new brake lines from EE. Are there any adapters to the D90 calipers required, or are the plug-and-play.
Do the D-90 set-up. Sell sperm if you have to in order to justify it. While you're in there do the cutter brakes, too. You'd be the coolest kid on the block.
5. Axles: Ok, I know everyone will likely have an opinion on this. I do want to upgrade the axles in the front and rear axles to something stronger. Great Basin has new axles available, which look nice, and are drop in. Thoughts on these or other suggestions?
Just do it. Great Basin is high as a Graffias's a** when it comes to.......anything. Take Bill's number out of your speed-dial.
Lucky 8 has Ashcroft rear axles, with a warranty, for $388.00. You can't beat that.
Up front, Lucky 8 also has the Ashcroft kit, but the price is less attractive. $1,100 (ouch!). But help is on the way. Rover Track's has a "new" product with a lifetime warranty for the front. I do not know the price of the Rover Track's front end kit, but rumor has it under $800.00. Just a rumor. I spoke with Keith recently and his new kit is about to be released very soon (if not already?).
Anything else I am missing on the axle rebuild?
Ditch the 3.90 gears. You're going to hate them. 4.11:1 are borderline with your tire. 4.75:1's are too much gear. Still, 4.11's are better than 3.90's. Also with 3.90's you're limited to finding replacements. With 4.11's you've got Lucky 8, Ashcroft, KAM, the new Land Rover military gears (did I say that?), GBR, a buddy you know who will let you use his diff to get you home, used gears, etc... Who run's 3.90's? No one, that's who.
One more thing. Drill out your diff breather vent lines to 1/2" and run your lines into the top of the engine compartment. No one makes an off-the-shelf manifold (that I know if), but have one made and run all of your diff breather lines into the manifold. Transmission vent line and all. Then run a single breather line even higher.
