slow build- 97 Ram CTD family truck/expo rig

Wh1t3nukle

I gotz dis
No apologies necessary. I'm not in a rush and really appreciate the feedback. Very happy to hear your thoughts. I could see myself taking the cup holder out completely and making use of the space with the built console.

It makes total sense about the switches being there. I've been tossing switches at the driver kick panel. That doesn't go well if you somehow request the better half to flip some switches...

Again, thanks Boss!
 

bloodyWEST

Adventurer
I hadn't played with the truck too much over the last few months, until this week.

the day before i left for baja almost 2 years ago, i figured out my front axle was bad, the pinion bearings were shot. Then i neglected it because i didnt have the money to deal with it. i finally pulled the cover to look inside and there were 1/4" sized pieces of teeth laying in the bottom, and the pinion had shifted forward and gouged the carrier.

so last month i picked up a 1996 3500 axle on Craigslist for $275. the seller swore it was 4.10.
i was all ready to start the swap, when i pulled the cover, counted the teeth, its 3.54. short story, the seller bold face lied to me. I learned my lesson, to pull the cover and count the teeth. Im now trying to sell that axle

after a few weeks i found another axle for $400. i could tell by the pictures it was a 2000+ with the newer brakes. cool, should all bolt in...right?

at this point for me $400 is alot of money, so it realy has been a drag.

years ago i bought a 3" Rough Country lift kit that was missing the lift springs. i paid $100 and got the 1/2" longer tubular control arms with the bushings and a sway bar drop bracket and extended bump stops.

as i got ready to install the arms i discovered i lost or was missing 1/2 the bushings. did a little research and the RC ones are trash anyway. so i spent $65 on all new Energy Suspension bushings for the uppers and lowers. I had to cut/trim them down a bit to narrow them, then i put the sleeves in the lathe and narrowed them too. my 4 year old daughter thought greasing them was the coolest thing ("looks like Play Dough!!")

of course one of the bushings was missing from the new UPS shipment, so that ordeal took 2 weeks.

that gets us up to 3 days ago, its 100* at my house and i wrestled that 500# axle into place alone with 2 floor jacks in my gravel driveway. that was a workout. Saturday was my big push to get the truck done.

i noticed when i picked up the 2000 axle that it was missing the newer style tie rod. i thought "who cares, guys run the new style tie rods on the old axle, should be fine to do the inverse." WRONG

the 2000 axle has the newer style sway bar mounts. they interfere with the inverted Y tie rod arrangement.

Im excited for the new brakes, 1/4" bigger in diameter with 2 piston calipers, and you can easily swap over to the 3rd gen rotors/pads that are 1" bigger diameter.

so far the only hiccup on the brakes has been hunting down new banjo bolts. the old single piston calipers have M10 1.5 bolts, the new 2 piston calipers are 3/8-24. Auto parts stores had trouble looking up banjo bolts, so here is a pic of the part number for reference. today i bled the brakes and everything seems good.


so NOW...... im waiting for payday to buy a 4th gen tire rod set up. Mopar sells the entire set up, ball joint to ball joint with drag link, assembled for <$300

it bolts into 2000 and up 4x4 trucks. the width of the tie rod changed, and the taper at the ball joints changed. so i also need to change my pitman arm.

so after i acquire the new super beefy tie rod set up, and a pitman arm, i hope to be on the road.

im running 2" coil spacers, and i plan to buy a drop pitman arm for 3-5" of lift. if anyone knows why this wont work please speak up.

i hope this enlightens you!
 

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bloodyWEST

Adventurer
it has been a good opportunity to pressure wash/clean/degrease and repaint things
 

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Tommy R

Geaux Tigers!
I don't think getting a dropped pitman arm will be a good idea unless you're also planning on re-aligning your track bar somehow. If the track bar mount on the axle is in the same general location on the new axle as it was on your old axle, definitely don't get the dropped pitman arm. You'll have horrific bumpsteer issues. My Jeep (4.5" at the time) had a dropped pitman arm and stock track bar mounts and bumpsteered like mad 'til I put a stock arm back on it.

Fortunately, you've already got 17" wheels or you'd have to trim the ends of the tie rod ends. I'm still running 16" wheels on my '01 with '10+ steering and after trimming it's still a tight fit. And at full lock I still get some rub between the wheel's inner lip and the passenger side tie rod end.

Good luck!
Tommy
 

bloodyWEST

Adventurer
Thanks for the advice on the bump steer. I plan on updating my trac bar soon, but I need to look at how the aftermarket ones mount. I know they fix a few problems, but I don't remember them talking specifically about lowering the pivot. Maybe I will just build my own


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bloodyWEST

Adventurer
Trying to keep cost down (read: I'm broke) I dug through my growing pile of front end parts, ran the part numbers, and sure enough I already had the pitman arm I needed from a 2000+ truck.

While waiting for UPS to bring my new tie rod ($294 shipped!) I found out that dodge changed the u-joint size. So I had to swap the yolk from my old axle.

The tie rod came today, UPS walked down my driveway and almost installed it &#128540;

This thing is super beefy. I'm super stoked to get the truck on the road.

Everything is ready to go, I'm just waiting on new shock bushings then I can take the truck for an alignment.

I did jack up the right front tire, start the truck, and click the transfer case in and out of 4x4 while trying to spin the tire (trans was in park) to make sure the CAD was functioning properly.
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bloodyWEST

Adventurer
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Well I have decided to ditch the bed in favor of an 8' long window height utility bed I acquired.

We bought a 27' travel trailer and we are planning a 4000 mile road trip this spring. So on my long to-do list is make the truck quiet

My truck had a 4" down pipe off the turbo, then 5" to behind the rear tire, with a 24" long muffler that didn't seem to do a darn thing, the truck was way too loud.

So today I wrapped the down pipe with heat wrap. My wife could feel the floor get hot when we would climb grades.

I got a 4" x 40" Donaldson muffler from Ryder fleet for $77 with $7 flat rate shipping.

I used an 8" piece of flex pipe from the down pipe to the muffler, then I modified the factory hangers. There is a hanger about 18" behind the cab that bolts to the frame, I just relocated it about 2' forward to where I needed it.
Right now it's turned out on a 45 until my bed is on. I plan on running a stack through the floor.

It is much quieter than before. Still loud at idle, like any cummins. But at 65mph it's much easier to talk in the cab.
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bloodyWEST

Adventurer
So with all this new found room, I wanted a water tank. So I've got 5' of 6" PVC which comes out to just over 7 gallons. I used one of the old exhaust hangers and then welded the other hanger solid. I added another cross member for the tank and left provisions to mount a future gas tank skid.
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jkosten

Observer
Cool looking build. I just read through it from the beginning.

I have a couple thoughts and questions:

Did you ever put a gsk kit in? My 4k kit made a big difference on power through out the rpm range.

Have you adjusted the pump timing?

Have you adressed the KDP?

How is the CAD holding up?

Does your fuel gauge still work?

Have you put in head light relays yet?

When you get a chance check out my 96 build here: http://dodgetrucksxtreme.com/index.php/topic,4639.msg106495.html#msg106495

Also check that site out for any Dodge questions you may have. It is a Baja friendly group that plays hard with their trucks.

sent from my pocket...
 

bloodyWEST

Adventurer
Jkosten thanks for the help. The previous owner had a receipt for the KDP when I bought the truck.

No GSK yet, on my list, but power isn't a priority right now. I don't want to put any more stress on the trans before our long trip.

I have not played with the pump timing. I know it's involved, I have watched my cummins mechanic buddy do it a few times. He has the tools. Some day.

No CAD issues. My old one worked fine even though the gears were trash. And no problems with the one on my new 2000 axle.

Fuel gauge works great. Ran it down to the red mark today, then put 31.x gallons in. Now it's a bit over the "F"

I have not done head light relays. I've been pretty happy with my Chinese eBay projectors. I keep them adjusted pretty low and just use my driving lights a lot.

I familiar with DTX but I'm not a member. I can't afford to go crazy with suspension yet. I would love to put the Thuren 2.5" King setup on before my drive to Alaska in a few years. Along with some Atlas or Deaver leaf springs.


So tomorrow I'm headed to a junk yard for a fuel tank to put in the factory spare tire location. I want a 20.5 gal jeep xj tank with factory skid plate. Should be fun.

I'm pretty excited with the idea of 53 gal of diesel and 7 gal of water under the bed.


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J.R.

Observer
So tomorrow I'm headed to a junk yard for a fuel tank to put in the factory spare tire location. I want a 20.5 gal jeep xj tank with factory skid plate. Should be fun.

Definitely interested in hearing more about this! Post up LOTS of details...and pics.!
 

bloodyWEST

Adventurer
So I got my add a leaf today. I planned to build my own leaf pack, but this was the path of least resistance, $94. Once I get the new bed on and loaded I will figure out how to fine tune it.
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So I may have screwed up on the aux tank search. I called my local junkyard and they said "$47 for a fuel tank, but they all have holes in them. " that doesn't work does it. I wanted a 90's and up plastic tank with the pump in it. On craigslist I found a 86 xj and I went and grabbed the tank from it for $30. I took all the measurements from my wife's 98 xj and I don't know if I measured wrong, or the early XJs have different sized tanks. This one is steel, which I knew would be the case, but only has 2 wires going into it, so apparently it doesn't have a pump in it.

I tried to jack it into place to figure out how to strap it, and I believe this tank is 1" wider. Also the filler line wasn't going to line up how I thought. So I spun the tank 90*. This seems goofy but I think it will work well. I can tuck it up higher, and it clears everything nicely. If anyone can think of a reason this is a bad idea, please speak up.

Here are some pics of it pushed up into place.
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Also, I am loving my new muffler. Much more civilized in the cab.
 

jkosten

Observer
This would be a great time to do a rear shackle flip. It would soften that back axle up.

sent from my pocket...
 

jkosten

Observer
Is your plan to use a small inline transfer pump to fill the primary tank? A Fass system fuel neck would be easy to use.

sent from my pocket...
 

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