New River, Arizona
Congratulations, you've won the award for worst possible person who's posted on Expo.
Without some GOOD rear drive, dragging a Burb uphill with just the front axle doing alll the work is a KABOOM waiting to happen. I got nothing against locking the front with a selectable, just lock the rear first. (Unless you have nothing to climb but flat mud)
'08 Ford F250 XL
Half of a '94 Jeep YJ
'02 Honda CRF450r, '04 Ford Mach1
Putting a locker in the front only is like putting a VW tdi in a Porsche 911.
Fit a selectable locker in the rear , bring it into play when you have got stuck to get you out backwards ! With a front locker it allows you to use that after the locked rear has got you further in and still got stuck., and get out backwards . With a front locked you basically can only go in a straight line . If you are going to try and drive thru deep snow get a plow as eventually all the difflocks and chains etc will be for nowt as it will pack in underneath and lift your drive from anything it can grip on HTSH
1986 110 CSW V8i > TD6
1992 90 300tdi auto
1999 P38 DSE Auto
2001 Freelander TD4 Auto
Sounds like you already made up your mind, but since people are still commenting...
I agree with locking the rear first as well. The rear axle is stronger. With the uneven front/rear weight of a pickup, the rear is normally the first to have traction issues. Flex the truck out in a ditch and you'll see that the front tires stay planted on the ground and one of the rear tires will be in the air.
The other major consideration is steering. You can drive around snow with the rear locked with minimal steering difficulty. Locking the front with an open rear will make the truck want to drive straight.
Good luck and report back when you do it!
2012 Jeep Rubicon Unlimited Six Speed - AEV 3.5", 35" KM2s on Argent Pintlers, Syergy steering upgrades, Ursa Minor J30 pop-up
My '03 Tundra had 6" RCD lift, 35" MTZs and ARBs front and rear. I used the rear locker many many times, the front seldom, and only for short periods of time. The on board air got used the most. Once you have the rear and compressor, adding the front ARB at a later date is always an option, but one you probably won't need to do.
'98 Dodge 3500 CTD NV4500 complete with a crap load of goodies.
'11 Rubicon Unlimited OME heavies
'07 Adventurer 10T
Sin niņo, tres perros y mucha tabletas de surf!
Did you re-gear for those 35s?
01 Tundra 4.7L 4x4 TRD access cab- Camburg uniball UCAs, OME 886 coils, 5100s
Dynapro ATM 285/75r16 on American Racing Chamber teflon wheels
electric fans, undercover snorkel, extended breathers, muffler swap, dvd player, remote start
slow build thread - http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...ol-s-01-Tundra
If you put the locker in the front the weight (downward force needed to generate traction) is just not there to pull the whole truck up. In most cases you would need a locker for going uphill and in that scenario the weight is almost always on the rear axle thus giving the locker an advantage in generating more traction and eventually forward motion.
Most experts suggest buying things in this order: winch first, rear locker second, front locker last. For my mild to moderate adventures I've used lower tire pressure + ebrake (poor man's rear locker) with acceptable results- but I still want a locker only if they didn't cost $1500! like the winch bumpers
2001 Pathfinder SE 4x4: AC 2" lift, 235/85/16 Goodyear Duratracs, ARB rear locker, RRO super sliders, diy skidplate, WARN manual hubs, Rola vortex roof-rack, diy storage platform, 2m/70cm and CB
1998 328i - daily/autox/trackdays
2004 Honda ST1300 - touring
2003 Ninja - fun