Sound Deadening Options?

[jkam]

Wow guys! That's exactly the info I needed! Muchas Gracias!

Jay...how well does that stuff conform to footwells, etc? That looks like the ticket...plus carpet....

-H-

It's pretty flexible. I had a custom cut rubber mat made, sprayed 3M spray adhesive on the bottom and then attatched the foil unsulation to that. That way, the whole thing could be removed in one piece as it wasn't stuck to the floor.
Even with all that thickness I had no problems fitting into the wheelwells on the van.

The van had chrome metal edging and I just added longer screws to make up for the thickness and that held it in place pretty well.

Question: Why carpet? The rubber mat I used could be cleaned with a wet rag making after expedition cleanup a breeze. I had a small throw rug I used inside as well as being able to put it outside the door to help from tracking dirt and mud inside.

[Shovel]

the "mat" stuff... whether edead or dynamat or any other brand... does come off with a heat gun (not your wife's hair dryer) - fairly easy, albeit very unpleasant and time consuming work. Note that removing it in this way is likely to damage the paint underneath.. but probably not anything else.

[ntsqd]

FWIW I used the aluminized mylar covered bubble wrap type insulation from Lowes on the underside of the roof in my Suburban, above the headliner. It made a huge difference in interior heat. The day I put it in was hot & sunny and by hand there was a ~20* difference in temp btwn the underside of the insulation and the underside of the sheetmetal roof.

A friend of mine made his Early Bronco doors quite a bit quieter by gluing Ensolite panels to the inside of the door skin. Really odd have the door of a 30ish y.o. truck close like it was on a modern luxury car.

There's also the "poor man's dynamat", a roofing product sold by the mega home stores. Another friend did the whole of his 510 2 dr. sedan with that and it worked well. Only known to me downside to it is the bright yellow film on it's top.

[jkam]

[QUOTE=ntsqd]FWIW I used the aluminized mylar covered bubble wrap type insulation from Lowes on the underside of the roof in my Suburban, above the headliner. It made a huge difference in interior heat. The day I put it in was hot & sunny and by hand there was a ~20* difference in temp btwn the underside of the insulation and the underside of the sheetmetal roof. /QUOTE]

I used the same stuff I put on the floormat, but used 3M adhesive spray to attach it to the roof before reinstalling the headliner.

You're right, it makes a big difference in heat transfer and makes it much more quiet.

[HenryJ]

I used the aluminized mylar covered bubble wrap type insulation from Lowes on the underside of the roof ..., above the headliner.

X3
I have done the same thing. Most lumber yards and home improvement centers have it in varying widths.
Great stuff and doesn't hold moisture. The brand I have used is Refletix.
I think I had between $5-$10 invested in enough to do my headliner. Refletix runs $0.42 per square foot. $42 for a 4 ft x 25 ft roll. Reflects 97% of radiant energy.
I have used it in numerous streetrods, on heat shields, AC boxes, under hood, etc.

Here are some others:
http://www.b-quiet.com/brownbread.html



Sound deadening $2.32 per sq. ft.
Insul-tek foil $1.13 per sq. ft.
Carpet underlay $0.50 per sq. ft.

[Shovel]

Is that Streetwires Ultracable?

[86cj]

I have decided to use Durabak on the floor to stop rust and seal things. Then put the stock carpet with it's thick insulation layer (the LJ has extra pad over older TJ's) back in, or possibly buy the rubber complete floor liner from Mopar.

If things get real wet from rain I can pull carpet to dry and if I am not aware of some water under the carpet the Durabak will save the tub floor. I did put some Dynamat extreme on trans tunnel as the front carpet has less insulation than rear section. I think the thick mousenest type padding works well it but will rust things if it gets wet.

[Robthebrit]

Remember to be realistic in what you expect from these products. They all kind of work in some way or another, find the right product for you can be difficult and expensive. Like Scott said paint stuff on can be a bad idea, if you are just doing it to see if it works. For example most of these products will not stick to the rough surface of a bed liner and paints won't stick either because the bed liner once dry is immune to solvents (well almost).

The mog roof on the double cabs is kind of flexible and the interior noise reverberates. I used two layers of heavy butyl stick on stuff, the bottom layer does not have the foil so the top layer with foil stick perfectly to make a single thick layer. I also used the home depot foil bubble wrap insulation for heat and together they worked really well. I also put paint on bed liner on the outside of the roof to hide some fading paint but it made absolutely no difference to the interior noise or heat. I don't know if it would of made a difference if I hadn't already done the interior work. I would guess you would have similar noise problems inside a van.

In the front of the cab all these off the shelf sound proofing products are simply not heavy enough to absorb the noise of a 6 liter diesel when you are sitting only 18 inches away from it. The best solution for the front of the cab was very heavy rubber. The mats on the floor are about an inch thick and must weigh about 30 pounds each, these made a huge difference. I also got a n insulated heavy rubber dog house cover, specially made for a mog. This weighs about 50 pounds and together with the mats and the roof they make a huge difference.



Rob

[ntsqd]

On flat or nearly flat panels that tend to reverberate I've found that either a cross-break or welding in an 'X' does wonders for removing that tendency.

When it has to be the weld option note that this isn't a normal bead. It is high current - low wire speed string of rat terds. The idea is the shrink the metal in those crossing lines to put some tension in the panel, not to create an accual weld bead.
There a probably better ways to achieve such a feature, but this is fast and effective.

[Robthebrit]

Great idea, thats clever! The only problem I see is the other side is usually painted.

Rob