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Thread: Gen. II Tacoma Airflow America Snorkel

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    490
    I dont mean to pick on this product but I wanted to also make another point about the install directions.

    It says 2 hours of time for install.

    "Ensure that all parts listed above are included in the parcel before starting any work. The total
    expected time of installation is around 2 hours."

    http://www.airflowsnorkels.com/details.php?id=127

    My experience was to install the snorkell correctly you need at least 1-2 full days of time in a dry enclosed space.

    After drilling the holes, removing metal burs, and mocking up the assembly you will need to paint the holes to avoid rust. The paint should be left to dry and cure for at least 12 hours, if not 24 hours before assembly.

    To do it right, you should primer the cut, let the primer dry and cure, then paint the cut with touch up paint to match the truck body then let the touch up paint dry and cure. You should plan on having a long down time to make sure you take your time and do it right the first time, please ignore the quote in the instructions of "2 hours" assembly time. I would say for a first time install for a well equipped do-it-yourselfer you should plan on 4-6 hours of actuall assemblly time with at least 24 hours of vehicle down time in a dry enclosed shop. Also be sure to add touch up paint to your list of parts needed to complete the install.

    Also, I noticed the pillar mount bracket only has one hole to the snorkell and two holes to the pillar for mounting (mounting diredctions section 3.18 and 3.19 @ http://www.airflowsnorkels.com/details.php?id=127 ). I have had my safari snorkel get seriously slapped by branches and brush to the point the head popped off. I would consider adding extra support to the tube between the tube an I-Pillar (maybe a second mounting bracket as it looks like there are two threaded holes in the snorkel body and it could accomodate two mounting brackets along the I-Pillar instead of one??). This is compunded by the fact that this product appears to stick up much higher than the safari snorkel does and is higher than the roof line of the truck. Just an FYI....beware of the snorkel head getting wacked by trees and shrubs. This could cause dmage to the snorkel, especially given the minimal mounting method between the pillar and snorkel itself. Just my $0.02.
    Last edited by upcountry; 01-16-2013 at 09:09 PM.
    This post was most likely made from my Tmobile Droid so spelling and punctuation errors are expected.

    2007 Toyota Tacoma DC 6spd. 4WD TRD - http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...rk-In-Progress

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    246
    Upcountry, I appreciate your constructive criticism. Thanks for the feedback.

    I have to disagree on the amount of time for paint though.

    IMO, you only need to put some type of paint on the bare metal. All you're trying to do is prevent surface rust.
    All the holes that are initiated are covered up by the snorkel, there is no reason to make them match the truck's color other than OCD.

    I generally use a paint pen of some sorts when I paint the bare metal, this dries in minutes and can cure once the snorkel is installed.

    As far as the first time snorkel installer DIY guy, I agree it might take longer than the estimated 2 hours.


    The A pillar mount is very stout and should survive for the lifetime of the install.
    One needs to remember when traveling that anything you install on the exterior of your vehicle will need extra consideration in tight areas.



    Funny, I completely forgot about my snorkel one day and went through a DIY car wash to rid some mud. The car wash promptly removed the head from the snorkel tube, good thing I had secured with a screw as recommended...
    Last edited by C-Fish; 01-18-2013 at 04:01 PM.
    -Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the moments that take our breath away

    mark@expeditioneers.com

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    490
    Thanks for the response. I do see the logic in reason for not needing to "match the paint" as the assembly will cover the hole and painted areas. But, as with many on this forum I do beleive in doing things right so they appear clean. I have made errors I regret, and most have been paint related so I am "in recovery" and on a campaign to promote proper painting technique!

    I disagree with the assumption that you can assemble the whole thing and apply paint in 2 hours (or even 4 hours) IF you want the paint to cure properly, even with a "paint pen".

    Even on E-How (do-it yourself for dummies) it instructs you to apply two coats of touch up paint from the "paint pen" and LET IT DRY AND CURE FOR 30 TO 45 MINUTES for each coat. http://www.ehow.com/how_5692844_appl...-up-paint.html

    Under the directions for the touch up paint, this would take approximately 1 hour of said time. Now, of course during the that time you can be doing other things, such as fitting the hoses, cutting the air intake on the resonator box, etc... but it really leaves the reader thinking this is something they can fit in in the evening after work while consuming 6 bottled beverages.

    The problem with installing the snorkel and fitting hardware before the paint actually cures is the contact with the freshly painted surface can cause the paint to be scrapped or otherwise wiped from the surface that it is supposed to protect.

    Paint curing is defined as (Yahoo Answers): Curing and drying are two different processes in modern paints.

    When paint dries, the carrier (typically water in latex paints, a solvent in oil based paints) evaporates, allowing the paint to form a film. As the carrier evaporates, other chemicals that act as stabilizers evaporate as well.

    The stabilizers prevent the paint curing in the can. Once they start to evaporate, other chemicals in the paint are free to react with each other to form new chemicals. Usually these are small chunks of polymers (think plastic) combining to make larger chunks of polymers that effectively form a large sheet.

    The paint will not achieve its full strength until it is completely cured. It will be easier to scratch or stain. Under good conditions, paint will usually be 80 - 90% cured in a couple of days, fully cured in a few weeks.

    Also, as the chemical structure of the paint changes, the color and opacity of the paint film will change as well. If you put new paint over old paint of the exact same color, the colors will look different for a while after it is dry, but as the paint cures the colors will come back into line.


    I agree I am OCD, I grew up in Hawaii where if you didnt paint something properly it would fail and rust eventually in a few short years turning into a sheet metal tumor.

    For those of us that live in Arizona, this is not an issue as the vehicle will not be exposed to a harsh envirnment (aside form heat). I now live in the northwest and I am OCD about paint, becuase if you dont do it right the first time, you will have to correct it later. Why take it apart later if you can take your time and do it right the first time.....maybe I really dont suffer fomr OCD, rather I am just practical with my time???
    This post was most likely made from my Tmobile Droid so spelling and punctuation errors are expected.

    2007 Toyota Tacoma DC 6spd. 4WD TRD - http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...rk-In-Progress

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    246
    I lived in Seattle for 5 years. Sure do miss the summers...
    -Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the moments that take our breath away

    mark@expeditioneers.com

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    490
    Oh, and BTW.....I just went out to my truck and got my touch up paint pen from my truck.

    Toyota Part # P/N 00258004Q221

    The instructions specifically start out saying:

    Clean Surface. Prime bare metal.

    Which is consitent with my post above - prime, then paint. Proper painting and curing is the foundation for my disagreement with the products statement of 2 hours install time. Although, I imagine the 2 hour quote is really intended for a shop to provide an estimate to a customer, not for a do-it yourselfer to plan install time!!!!!!!! My point was really targeting the do-it yourselfer who might be left with the wrong impression.

    I'll leave you alone know.

    For the record, I like the product!

    Thank you for professionally responding to my recalcitrant response.
    This post was most likely made from my Tmobile Droid so spelling and punctuation errors are expected.

    2007 Toyota Tacoma DC 6spd. 4WD TRD - http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...rk-In-Progress

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Temecula Valley
    Posts
    9,748
    Always prime bare metal. Always.

    I prefer red oxide primer or any self etching type.

    .02
    Dave Bennett, Member #203

    Travel, Explore, Live: AMERICAN ADVENTURIST

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