04 3rd gen Dodge Ram rock crawler expedition build

gun45boat

Adventurer
LED 40" light bar finally installed and wired.. I thought they were a little overpriced, UNTIL I HIT THE ON BUTTON!!!! Holy **** these CREE LED lights are CRAZY bright... Just dont stand in the direct beam of the light and look directly in it LOL You will be seeing a shadow for at least 2 or 3 minutes LOL. I think they are def. worth the coin for LED's Puts all other lights to shame.
 

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gun45boat

Adventurer
No GLare. Shocking right!! I guess the LED's have a specific straight forward purpose (a more forward defined beam) . I figured I would get a ton of glare, but it isnt bad at all. My Hella's on my old Landcruiser lite up my hood like crazy.

And I finally got these bastards in the mail...

RCV's for the front diff :):):):):) Being installed tom.
 

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gun45boat

Adventurer
Pics of the LED light bar. and the newly installed RCV front axle shafts and fresh Timken from wheel bearing hub assemblies

Do I need more lights?
 

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Black Dog

Makin' Beer.
Nice CV joints, I'm jealous. I just got my '04 out of the shop (its too rainy and muddy in my driveway to do it myself) to get new U joints and bearings yesterday, I wish I had the dough to go this route.
 

gun45boat

Adventurer
I did the same thing with the factory front shafts. I put stronger YUKON 1530/40/50 sumthin' joints in, then proceeded to do some full throttle assaults up some rock gardens (full turn, back and forth full throttle with some full hits in reverse, bouncing the governor)... after about 3 runs with that abuse, I was stoked about the front end holding up. THEN,,, as I put her up on the lift to do some minor steering PSC adjustments, I noticed the ears on the f%cking shafts were hollowed out!!!! I was like "Damn, I guess the weakness isn't the U-joints or the shafts breaking, It was the freakin shaft EARS themselves that are the weak link". I even carried spares (super heavy) As much as I hated pulling the trigger on $1900 It was a smart thing to do.. Even the guy I ordered them from (RCV Rep) told me. "It is a once and done deal man!!!, and you can lighten your load by not having to carry spares" LOL.. Typical fawking salesman LOL But I think he is right. and at $1900 HE BETTER BE RIGHT!!!!!!!
 

marshal

Burrito Enthusiast
why did you choose a regular cab vs a crew? i know the wheel base would be detrimental with the rock crawling on break over, considering how long a SWB ram already is - but since you cut the bed out of the scenario - seems like the xtra cab space could be useful.

awesome build. id love to see some more photos and discussion on the lighting and specifics on your suspension setup
 

gun45boat

Adventurer
I chose the regular cab for 2 reasons 1. it was a company truck that was FREE to build on and do whatever I wanted to do (and FREE is always a good thing) 2. The crew and club cabs are impossible to get under 120" on the wheelbase (and not look completely goofy), and still lift the fuel cell out from under the frame. Also, with my old 4 seat buggy, I always found myself wheeling with just 1 other person, if I have other people with me, I am always telling them to get out of the buggy during a difficult obstacle (safety and liability). The trip out west (which is why this truck was built) it is just me and my dog going (2 seats) needed. I have a wife and 2 kids, I enjoy just being able to take one of the kids wheeling at a time (great bonding) as both children LOVE wheeling. If both want to go, then I pull the fridge out of the center console and toss back in the center seat. My wife is not a wheeler, and (bless her heart) she lets me go for long durations to hit up the trails out west.

I think every family is different. Some need a 4 door truck (which is way to big for some serious wheeling) and when I say serious wheeling, i mean throwing the truck around// front end launches up rock faces// full throttle assaults up rock gardens etc. I feel that anything bigger than a single cab/over 120" wheelbase, will have to much frame flex, too big, turn radius too large, way to heavy..

Most the trails on the East Coast are narrow Jeep trails, with this build, I can make most/all the trails, but I will tell you, I got the dents and scrapes down the doors to pull it off. Out west is a different story.

I would like to see a double cab power wagon with the wheelbase pulled in, but I only think you could shave off about 10" total from a PW. It would still be at 130" wheelbase, and I feel that is too long.

I am leaving in 5 weeks to Moab and the Rubicon Trail (gone for 5 weeks) I will keep everyone posted on this thread with pics and movies during the adventure.
 

gun45boat

Adventurer
I built this rig to drive down the highway, at 90+mph, and do it for long periods of time, then get on the trails and wheel the best of Moab, and The Rubicon trail/ Fordyce Creek (If I time the "tides" right LOL)and the Badlands. So with that said, I will be driving this rig to and from. Just for the challenge of it:):):):):) :ylsmoke:

I am on the fence about the Trail Ready Bead locks or B.A.D. wheels http://www.badwheelsinc.com/, anyone have any experience or let me know which ones to go with before I leave?? THanks.
 

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