daverbmxer
New member
I originally posted this on a Suzuki forum that I frequent, but I didn't get a lot of responses there. So I figured I would try here. If I by chance mention something below that doesn't quite make sense it's probably because I said it on the other forum but didn't add it into this post. I'll do my best to fill in the gaps.
I want to build a plywood pop up on a 5x8 utility trailer. It will be pulled by my 60 horsepower Suzuki Samurai, so being light weight and having a small profile into the wind are very important. I will want to carry 2 motorcycles, a DR350 and likely a TS250. Sleeping for 2 is above the motorcycles. Its purpose will be to get pulled from eastern North Dakota to British Columbia, about 1500 miles one way. So in 2 weeks it could have close to 4,000 miles put on it. It will get pulled 95% of the time on paved roads, but some gravel roads with washboard and small rocks. It's not really a true "expedition" trailer. More of a trailer to get the bikes to somewhere to ride, and somewhere to come back to and cook at and sleep in. I've done tent camping a couple years, but I'm uncomfortable sleeping in grizzly bear country. This seems much safer!
I checked out trailers a couple days ago and think I found the trailer I want. It's a BigTex 5x8'. $599 brand new with no tax. Weighs 380 lbs, has a tubular upper frame, 4 tie down points, Dexter EZ Lube axle. It only has 12" wheels but it should be ok for the speeds I go. I believe it has a 2,000 lb. axle with a 1500 GVWR.
Here's a sketch I've been working on. It looks like I would need a lot bigger trailer, but I have drawn everything to scale it and seems to work out. I think I've thought of most things on it, but some of them aren't really drawn. The top roof lowers from the position shown to a couple inches below the height of a stock Samurai. It is also not really any wider.
As for materials, I want to keep it as light as possible. I'm not sure these thicknesses are ideal, but I was thinking of using 3/8" plywood for the lower level wall, and 1/4" for the upper walls except for the front which would be 3/8" because of the force of wind. 1/2" plywood floor over the expanded steel. 3/8" plywood roof. As for the square steel tube, I am not sure of the thickness yet. But I think 1" square tube for the lower level, which will have 3/4" tube slide into it.
When the roof is lowered, the insides of the 2 bunks sit 3" lower, leaving a bit of a gap between them. I will use a wooden stick or PVC pipe to push up on the center of the roof and spring loaded pins will pop in on the corners once the hole in the 3/4" tube slides up to them. There is also a C channel piece at the tail to keep the upper wall in place. There is a 3" overlap between upper and lower walls, and I think I will use the adhesive backed hard top sealer foam to try and keep mosquitoes out.
3 windows 36" by 18" made of plexi glass probably 1/4" thick, that will not be seen when the trailer is being towed, it will also hide what is in the trailer. The rear door's top bit folds down on the outward side. It has a short "ladder" to get directly up to the bunks without having to go in to the lower level which would be nearly impossible if the motorcycles are in there. When the top part of the door is upright, it is held in place by something similar to a door bolt that I can make up.
If it's a rainy day or something, I can hang out inside and stand up, the roof is somewhere around 6'6" when extended and the bunks are stored up. The pivot point for the bunks is the top part of the lower main wall. The cable is attached to the upper point on the upper wall. The inside ladder folds up under the left bunk, and can only be used if the motorcycles are not in there. Being as how I'm 6'2" and the trailer is only an 8', minus the tube thickness and what not, I probably wouldn't have enough space to get my fat *** up a ladder and onto the bunk. It was around 18" if the ladder were on the longer bunk side. So I moved it to the shorter bunk side, which is a 5'10" bunk, and gives me about 24" to get onto the bunk. Should be enough room to clear knees and what not.
I think I went a bit overboard on all the bracing, but I'm planning on using pretty thin wall tube. 1/8" maybe? 1" tube on the bottom, 3/4" above as I said. I did a very rough calculation and figured it would be about 120ish lbs of steel tube.
So that's my virtual prototype. It's not really done, but I think the main idea is there. I've been working on it here and there for the last few days and that's what I came up with anyway.
I have been told a couple times that I should have trailer brakes on it. The trailer all loaded up will probably be around 1500 lbs. My Samurai only weighs 2200 lbs. I'm realize that is close to it's own weight, but I am very aware of steep highway descents and how to deal with them. I won't be going down any steep forestry roads. I'm kind of on the fence about needing the brakes, what do you think?
Thoughts on it all?
I have some other ideas that I kind of jotted down that I would like to implement in it.
2 of these 220 lumen LED dome lights.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/dome-lights/round-dome-light-fixture-with-3-position-switch/1227/2873/
A shelf/table on the inside of the door, 32" or so off the ground that folds up to the door.
12 volt deep cycle battery, perhaps mounted on the hitch in a battery box. I think I would like to run dedicated 4 gauge wire for the positive and negative to it to keep it charged. When I park it for the day I would disconnect it at the hitch. Would an Anderson plug be best? The battery will power a couple small inverters. I have a 500 watt and a 150 watt, along with the 2 dome lights.
2 motorcycle chocks bolted to the floor, with large washers on the back side of the plywood and expanded steel.
Fuel can mounted outside on the tongue to fill motorcycles or for more range on the Samurai.
Vent that allows gasoline fumes to be sucked out at highway speed.
12 volt fan to cool it down a bit before sleeping.
Attachment hooks for a tarp on the side. Poles can be stored inside in a PVC pipe at roof height.
Does this sound doable? Or is it kind of silly and going to be a pain to use?
I want to build a plywood pop up on a 5x8 utility trailer. It will be pulled by my 60 horsepower Suzuki Samurai, so being light weight and having a small profile into the wind are very important. I will want to carry 2 motorcycles, a DR350 and likely a TS250. Sleeping for 2 is above the motorcycles. Its purpose will be to get pulled from eastern North Dakota to British Columbia, about 1500 miles one way. So in 2 weeks it could have close to 4,000 miles put on it. It will get pulled 95% of the time on paved roads, but some gravel roads with washboard and small rocks. It's not really a true "expedition" trailer. More of a trailer to get the bikes to somewhere to ride, and somewhere to come back to and cook at and sleep in. I've done tent camping a couple years, but I'm uncomfortable sleeping in grizzly bear country. This seems much safer!
I checked out trailers a couple days ago and think I found the trailer I want. It's a BigTex 5x8'. $599 brand new with no tax. Weighs 380 lbs, has a tubular upper frame, 4 tie down points, Dexter EZ Lube axle. It only has 12" wheels but it should be ok for the speeds I go. I believe it has a 2,000 lb. axle with a 1500 GVWR.
Here's a sketch I've been working on. It looks like I would need a lot bigger trailer, but I have drawn everything to scale it and seems to work out. I think I've thought of most things on it, but some of them aren't really drawn. The top roof lowers from the position shown to a couple inches below the height of a stock Samurai. It is also not really any wider.
As for materials, I want to keep it as light as possible. I'm not sure these thicknesses are ideal, but I was thinking of using 3/8" plywood for the lower level wall, and 1/4" for the upper walls except for the front which would be 3/8" because of the force of wind. 1/2" plywood floor over the expanded steel. 3/8" plywood roof. As for the square steel tube, I am not sure of the thickness yet. But I think 1" square tube for the lower level, which will have 3/4" tube slide into it.
When the roof is lowered, the insides of the 2 bunks sit 3" lower, leaving a bit of a gap between them. I will use a wooden stick or PVC pipe to push up on the center of the roof and spring loaded pins will pop in on the corners once the hole in the 3/4" tube slides up to them. There is also a C channel piece at the tail to keep the upper wall in place. There is a 3" overlap between upper and lower walls, and I think I will use the adhesive backed hard top sealer foam to try and keep mosquitoes out.
3 windows 36" by 18" made of plexi glass probably 1/4" thick, that will not be seen when the trailer is being towed, it will also hide what is in the trailer. The rear door's top bit folds down on the outward side. It has a short "ladder" to get directly up to the bunks without having to go in to the lower level which would be nearly impossible if the motorcycles are in there. When the top part of the door is upright, it is held in place by something similar to a door bolt that I can make up.
If it's a rainy day or something, I can hang out inside and stand up, the roof is somewhere around 6'6" when extended and the bunks are stored up. The pivot point for the bunks is the top part of the lower main wall. The cable is attached to the upper point on the upper wall. The inside ladder folds up under the left bunk, and can only be used if the motorcycles are not in there. Being as how I'm 6'2" and the trailer is only an 8', minus the tube thickness and what not, I probably wouldn't have enough space to get my fat *** up a ladder and onto the bunk. It was around 18" if the ladder were on the longer bunk side. So I moved it to the shorter bunk side, which is a 5'10" bunk, and gives me about 24" to get onto the bunk. Should be enough room to clear knees and what not.
I think I went a bit overboard on all the bracing, but I'm planning on using pretty thin wall tube. 1/8" maybe? 1" tube on the bottom, 3/4" above as I said. I did a very rough calculation and figured it would be about 120ish lbs of steel tube.
So that's my virtual prototype. It's not really done, but I think the main idea is there. I've been working on it here and there for the last few days and that's what I came up with anyway.
I have been told a couple times that I should have trailer brakes on it. The trailer all loaded up will probably be around 1500 lbs. My Samurai only weighs 2200 lbs. I'm realize that is close to it's own weight, but I am very aware of steep highway descents and how to deal with them. I won't be going down any steep forestry roads. I'm kind of on the fence about needing the brakes, what do you think?
Thoughts on it all?
I have some other ideas that I kind of jotted down that I would like to implement in it.
2 of these 220 lumen LED dome lights.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/dome-lights/round-dome-light-fixture-with-3-position-switch/1227/2873/
A shelf/table on the inside of the door, 32" or so off the ground that folds up to the door.
12 volt deep cycle battery, perhaps mounted on the hitch in a battery box. I think I would like to run dedicated 4 gauge wire for the positive and negative to it to keep it charged. When I park it for the day I would disconnect it at the hitch. Would an Anderson plug be best? The battery will power a couple small inverters. I have a 500 watt and a 150 watt, along with the 2 dome lights.
2 motorcycle chocks bolted to the floor, with large washers on the back side of the plywood and expanded steel.
Fuel can mounted outside on the tongue to fill motorcycles or for more range on the Samurai.
Vent that allows gasoline fumes to be sucked out at highway speed.
12 volt fan to cool it down a bit before sleeping.
Attachment hooks for a tarp on the side. Poles can be stored inside in a PVC pipe at roof height.
Does this sound doable? Or is it kind of silly and going to be a pain to use?
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